Re: Restoring Rusty
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here is a little trick, you can use paper towels to keep the acid from running off the piece you are trying to treat and maintain wetness longer
you know me and paper towels, LOL their not just for cleaning up dog pee off the carpet, JK |
Re: Restoring Rusty
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alright here are the results after the second treatment, not bad, we are slowly getting there, but as predicted it is going to take a third one
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Re: Restoring Rusty
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good thing I decided to go to bare metal cause I think there was rust lurking underneath the green paint, now it's hard to call it since the primer was black and the rust spots were black, so we took a wire wheel to them and then even an orbital sander for a quick pass with each, then back to a final acid coat and our new friend Mr. Wool... Steel Wool
lots of work, but not bad at all |
Re: Restoring Rusty - Hood Hinge
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so I was in a take it apart kind a mood this Sunday morning and took the hood hinge off (one side only, Gregie style) in order to take the fender off to replace it
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Re: Restoring Rusty
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some parting shots of the old rusty fender, anything not to work on the rusty hood, lol
and she's off, as even more crud falls to the garage floor... Dusty? Dusty where are you? Suck this stuff up right now... |
Re: Restoring Rusty
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and a little side by side action
Old Fender (left) New Old Fender (right) OEM none of that after market "over seas" beer can thick holes misaligned stuff for Rusty, nothing but the best, LOL |
Re: Restoring Rusty
Looks good!
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It's funny but I second thought the acid after I posted that....lol.
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It's a shame the fenders are made as they are. They pack up with crud behind there and rust out. My driver's side isn't so good, but I already have a replacement.
So the truck is called Rusty, and the shop vac is called Dusty? Too funny :lol: Are you cleaning up the hood hinges while the hood is off? Man, those hoods have lots of area, don't they. Seemed like I was sanding forever when I painted mine. |
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always bag and tag your bits, yes today it makes sense where they go, but how about two soccer tournaments, a gynastix regional, a black belt promotion, one wedding and two funerals (for goldfish - don't ask) later, will you know where they go then?
as a bonus I like to soak 'em in - you guessed it PB Master Blaster... or [wait for it] Mineral Spirits |
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and now for a General Motors Think Tank Flashback [Engineer #1] Bob I hear you, yes that will make the fender indestructable but won't that make a pocket for water and crud to collect in [Engineer #2] Yeah sure, but it will take years for that Pittsburgh steel to rust through [Engineer #3] It will never happen, steel like that won't rust for a quarter of a century if not more, not like anybody is going to be driving these trucks in 40 years [All Together] No doubt, lets keep that design! |
Re: Restoring Rusty - New Old Fender Mounted
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New [Old] Fender - Money Shot
... best part ~ No Badge! |
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The good news: the fender looks great compared to what came off. The bad news: the door now looks a little worse then it did before. |
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hey Greg will that acid that you bought from Home Depot work on door panels,trying to get rid of the PO's attempt at painting so I can duplicolor other all my stuff
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You could try Denatured Alcohol, I think that might could work, but be careful with it. |
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SEMA - Someone Else Made this Automobile, LOL, I just came up with that, can you think of some good ones |
Re: Restoring Rusty
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thanks man I'll look for that stuff at pepboys gotta find some door clips anyways I don't know what this guy used but yeah anyways
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sorry I got the dreaded sideways pictures from my phone
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Door gaps? - it's a truck! :lol: |
Re: Restoring Rusty
We used model airplane fuel (nitromethane) to remove paint from our plastic model cars when I was a kid ('60s). I wonder about brake fluid, I seems to remove paint from everything it splashes on. I doubt the muratic acid would eat the door panels since it is packaged in plastic jugs but don't think it would remove paint either. Keep up the good work.
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Re: Restoring Rusty
I always try to bag and label everything but somehow almost always manage to forget. I did remember it when I recently refinished an old rifle, but then just a month or so later I somehow forgot to do it when pulling the dash and duct work out of my truck....somehow I ended up getting everything but one piece back in place and luckily the one piece I missed can be done without taking everything else back apart.....someday I will learn.
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In the same winter the heater core went out on a 2004 Ford Taurus that was my wife's and on my 2001 dodge ram.....I wouldn't touch either one of them. I didn't want to even think about jacking around with those dashboards.....we bundled up for car rides that winter...
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Re: Restoring Rusty
I like to bag the parts and then put a note card in the bag telling me what and where they come from. That way when I forget what I did with that part and find it the ink won't have faded or worn off the bag...lol.
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Re: Restoring Rusty
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OK, finally got the entire hood done, no more rust, man lots of work to get here, lots of zero fun, hunker down and git er done
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Re: Restoring Rusty
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found out Harbor Freight sells primer now, so why not try it on the hood, here is their IRON ARMOR Self Etching Primer, with their 20% off coupon a can was about $4 bucks so I bought one and had my son buy one
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Re: Restoring Rusty - Priomered The Hood
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I think a can is about a coat, so ended up doing two coats / two cans on the hood
the interesting thing is the first coat came out half darker gray half lighter gray, (second pic) did I not shake the can all that well to start, I don't know, or is this Harbor Freight special as always, LOL first pic - just plain prepped hood second pic - first coat of primer third pic - second coat of primer |
Re: Restoring Rusty - A Little Surprise
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Rusty, Rusty, Rusty, sometimes I think you don't love me any more, I clean ya, I fix ya, I de-rust ya and this is how you thank me, this is what you've been hiding from me all this time
So what to do, what to do? A. Ignore it, paint the darn thing green ~ IT'S A TRUCK B. Ghetto bondo them holes and paint green over it - It's a truck! C. Buy a new hood, do it right D. Paint it green and weld it / fix it later [pronounced] never, LOL |
Re: Restoring Rusty
If it was mine, I would ghetto bondo it for now paint it and enjoy rusty. Then plan on a new replacement hood at a later date.;)
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I would do the same. I'm going to going for the patina look with my rusty old blue truck. However, I actually have a hood I'll give you. Drive on over to west TN and it's yours.
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Greg, the hoods are notorious for rusting there. I welded up my first hood, bondoed and painted and it was okay. But much later I found a hood with no rust (free!) that I cleaned up and repainted. I'd just do a quickie fix for now. Fix it later (if ever).
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Re: Restoring Rusty
Only because I don't want to paint, I am going to keeps rust and blue paint. That's why I have a hood and two finder to move along.
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Re: Restoring Rusty
a little Confession
Father it has been a couple weeks since my last intake manifold swap, since then the trucks oil leak has turned into an oil water fall (all signs point to the back of the intake manifold the flat valley area where no gasket was used but RTV only [as per the now questionable intake manifold instructions], as the oil runs down the bellhousing and passed the starter, the valve cover gaskets seem ok, dry) So no pictures but I pulled the intake off again, yes for a third time, this time I went out and bought some black RTV gasket maker and yet another FelPro gasket. One final time I am blaming myself for a poor installation, but that will be the last time I do that. If it fails again I am tossing this Weiand intake as it is not the Weiand of the 70's and 80's this casting is crap. The two middle bolts on the passenger side are impossible to torque to spec properly as the wrench does not fit there proper by the offset to one side carb tower. It's enuff to almost make The Greg go out and get an Edelbrock Performer. So here is the one last final plan. Use the black RTV to run the fattest widest bead that can fit on the 3/16th back wall of the block by that silly oil pressure location stub. Do the same on the front. Also add additional blobs in the bottom four corners where the heads meet the block (what a horrible / terrible design, that should be a beautiful natural curve / sweep not a sharp jagged edge, blah) Then coat, smear that black RTV on the cylinder head walls liberally, then do the same on the walls of the intake. (Last time I think I put the orange RTV only around the water jackets, but not this time, this time is for real) And here is the key to the entire operation. ... WAIT ~ WAIT ~ WAIT ~ then wait some more I waited an hour for the RTV beads to set then waiting 24 hours before putting the fluids back in, last time I did not wait that long, heck I may wait a couple days. Like someone said on this forum, they rather scrape old stuck gaskets off than have a leak! Amen to that! |
Re: Restoring Rusty
If you do get the Performer, you can get the air-gap version if you will be keeping the air pre-heat tube on the air cleaner. So, 2101 is regular, 2601 is air-gap.
I think biggest thing with sealing up the one you have is 1) clean the mating surfaces with lacquer thinner to remove any oil or residue completely, and 2) anywhere you are using a sealer/cement/silicone, spread it on both sides of the gap you are sealing. You want the final assembly to only require that the compound seal to itself, and not to have to form a bond to a clean surface. |
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Always put compound on both sides of any gap you are sealing, so that would be both the metal flange and the gasket, then seat the gasket to the flange. That seating process will mate compound to compound, which is what you want.
I used TiteSeal (which is a non-hardening gasket seal product the fly-boys use) on both sides of my valve cover gaskets, so I had four surfaces to coat on each side. |
Re: Restoring Rusty
Your post about RTV sounds like you are using way to much lol.
When I put the intake on my truck I put just enough rtv on the head side so the gaskets would stick and then bolted it down. For the china walls a good 1/4" bead down the walls and up the heads was all I did. But before I did all that I ensured 100% that all surfaces were clean using acetone and smooth by using 120 grit sandpaper. |
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