Re: '72 Cheyenne K10
 

You have a factory Air Condition cab. You might want to think about vintage air if you are really going to fix it up.

Re: '72 Cheyenne K10
 

I took the truck on it's longest drive a few miles across town today. Brakes could definitely be better. A friend is helping me with building a center console from scrap cedar. Stopped by my friend's new brewery to pick up a couple crowlers on my way home.

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Re: '72 Cheyenne K10
 

I am so frustrated with the brakes on this truck. Two shops looked at it and told me the booster isn't big enough. Booster manufacturer says it is plenty big. No shops want to work on it at all. I have bled and bled again and bled again. The brakes suck. They slow down okay, but are terrible for stopping. I have to grab the steering wheel and push with all my might to the floor to stop on a downhill driveway. If a dog, cat, or child jumps in front of me they are dead for sure.

Re: '72 Cheyenne K10
 

Maybe a vacuum leak somewhere is taking away from the booster?

You can always switch to hydroboost...it's pretty sweet.

Re: '72 Cheyenne K10
 

Center console project is finished (except bolting to the seat frame). I think it turned out pretty good.

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Re: '72 Cheyenne K10
 

console looks great.

Re: '72 Cheyenne K10
 

Truck looks great!

Re: '72 Cheyenne K10
 

Thanks guys!

I changed the oil today (yeah, I know I should have done that when I first got it). The filter was seriously stuck on and started to crush with a strap wrench. I turned to YouTube and found this cool trick to drill some holes and put screws through an oil filter socket into the oil filter. This worked much better than stabbing a screwdriver through it.

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Re: '72 Cheyenne K10
 

Stabbing the screw driver. Been there that’s a mess.

Re: '72 Cheyenne K10
 

I also took the passenger side hub apart to replace the rotor today. The bearings look good, so I'm just going to repack everything with new grease.

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Re: '72 Cheyenne K10
 

From these pictures, it looks to me like that rotor is glazed over. Hopefully your brakes will be more responsive after you replace it.

Re: '72 Cheyenne K10
 

The rotors needed to be replaced for sure. I'm not about to ruin new pads on them.

Re: '72 Cheyenne K10
 

Hey jimbosprint
Nice thread

I met you briefly the other day
But I really didn’t know
Until now :chevy:

It was raining
And I had a long drive in front of me

Re: '72 Cheyenne K10
 

Right on Chevyland. I'm glad that orange/white truck has a good home. I told my neighbor he shouldn't sell it.

Re: '72 Cheyenne K10
 

Last summer, I had poor braking for a while until I realized that the rear shoes needed more adjustment out. Turned in the star wheel to get the drums off and didn’t get set out enough. Discovered this when wife set the parking break and I dint know about it until the first stop and was like whoa, that is a lot better what changed. If you haven’t set the shoes yet that may help as well. My thought is all the initial boost was used to close the air space. Hope this helps.

Very nice truck btw, I too love the color.

Re: '72 Cheyenne K10
 

You never know what you will find when you take em apart. Driver side hub was very rusty. WD40 is good stuff. I think most of the parts can be saved, but I am tempted to replace the bearings at least. Any advice from the peanut gallery?

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Re: '72 Cheyenne K10
 

Soak the rusty hub dial pieces in Evaporust if not pitted and gone. Once the rust is gone lube and install. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...0&postcount=18

Re: '72 Cheyenne K10
 

Personally, I would replace bearings/races.

Re: '72 Cheyenne K10
 

I got the driver side back together. I had a little trouble with getting the bearing adjusted, but I think I have it right. The locking hub works good now.

The new pads rub a little on the new rotors. I am sure the caliper was opened all the way up. I hope the problem solves itself with a little use.

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Re: '72 Cheyenne K10
 

Passenger side hub is back on, but I didn't get the caliper back together yet. This hub lock is more difficult to get into the free setting for some reason. Everything feels like it moves smoothly inside to me.

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Re: '72 Cheyenne K10
 

I got the passenger side back together today and went for a test drive. The brakes slow down in a hurry just fine, but they are not good at stopping. There is no locking up the wheels. It isn't possible. Plenty of brake pedal there, but they are squishy and it takes a lot of leg to stop. Maybe the booster is bad. I don't know what to do.

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Re: '72 Cheyenne K10
 

I’m not an expert, but I recommend bleeding the system again. I say that because you say the pedal is squishy. I’ve gone through your thread but I don’t remember if you got a new master cylinder, if you did get a new master cylinder did you bench bleed it first?

Re: '72 Cheyenne K10
 

Yes, I did bench bleed the new master cylinder. I am probably going to take it all apart and bench bleed it again. Someone suggested I pinch the brake hoses off with vice-grips to see how the pedal feels. It was also suggested to disconnect the vacuum to see if it feels different. I don't know what else to do.

Re: '72 Cheyenne K10
 

I just ordered chrome bumpers. I can't find anyone to take thousands of my dollars and fabricate some nice tube bumpers for me, so instead it goes to reproduction parts. I am done wasting my time on people that lie when they say they can work on it in two weeks.

Re: '72 Cheyenne K10
 

What are your thoughts on adding a push bar/brush guard?