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well it's been like Amateur Hour over here on Team Shake 'n Bake I tell you, check out these spark plug gaps, this is rediculous
5 at .040" like they should ought to be was 2 too big, bigger than .045" and 1 too small, way too small, about .030" this team needs to shape up I tell you what Stu OBSERVATION: 1-6 look the same blackish/border line rich, 7-8 look lighter, a bit leaner |
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and to add in salt to injury, check out how high my feeler gauge goes up to, ha ha, .035 man GM Gods sure have a sense of humor - had to resort to the goofy wire style one I swore I would never find a need for, lol
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If you haven't figured this out yet, I'm reading the entire thread from start to finish. I love it. |
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I would run through the valve adjustment again, it is acting like they are a tad too tight.
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Spark plug gap on a HEI Chevy should be .045 as .030 was for a points system. Yes using the wrong gap will make a vehicle run like absolute crap. When I put plugs in my truck they were gapped for .030 and I could not get it to run properly no matter what.
Also doing vac gauge measurements I am pretty sure it should be on manifold vacuum not ported vacuum as should your distributors vacuum advance to get optimal performance. |
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I was just curious why the engine would overheat with the heater lines plugged,my big block is capped and it runs fine.Is your style engine have a different water gallery set up that would cause that?
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I been looking at your photos... y'all gonna have to change that truck's name.
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I do hear a tick and to me it sounds like one may be loose sounds like it is a comin' from the passenger side, here's the absolutely crazy thing though, it sounded exactly precisely the same before I did the top end swap/job, in other words the old heads aka the old valve train was generating the exact same tick (lets just keep that in mind as if it may turn out to be something else, something silly, like a bolt sticking out and tapping a firewall or something crazy like that) |
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let me get passed this vacuum issue and then I may try a different water pump, and maybe a more than single core radiator after that, maybe go aluminium |
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Run the gaps as wide as you can get away with it lights the fuel better. .045 is a good number for stock HEI with a new Delco coil and Ignition module. |
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well, gapped the plugs this morning to .040 (for starters) and warmed him up for 10 minutes, and then tested with the vacuum gauge again, and no change needle is still jumpy, dang
valve adjustment coming up next after my dentist appointment |
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Dentist appt. !! Don't take it out on poor Rusty, he has to be worried now.
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What vacuum can are you running? That can make the engine throb like that, although that is usually on the low end of vacuum, not the high end where you are.
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No, it's not like initial timing. You need to tune the carb with the vacuum advance hooked up. There's your problem. You are running a way-too-late spark.
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2) Mechanical Advance = How much your distributor pulls with weights and springs 3) Total Timing = Initial + Mechanical @ 2500-3000 rpm 4) Carb tuning is 1-3 setup PLUS vacuum advance Vacuum advance is there to help with idle and cruise and can help with MPG |
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decided to do a compression test before doing a valve adjustment, it's always good to have a baseline
man I was so bummed to find out that my trusty ol' compression gauge was not working, it read 0 for the first 4 cylinders so rented one from AutoZone for $40 bucks (which they refund you if and when you return the tool) before Pontiac Mike told me to check the Shrader valve on my old hose, and sure as sheet the cheapo tiny valve is bad, so that tells me my gauge may be good after all |
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man my cylinder pressure looks great, #1 and #2 were initially low but retested great
I always like to test twice once 1 through 8 and later on after re warming up the vehicle 8 through 1 |
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