Re: Restoring Rusty
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Re: Restoring Rusty
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Found this on Griffin's website: At Griffin, epoxy is a secondary process applied to some radiators to increase durability. All Griffin Radiators are vacuum brazed with a magnesium based cladding. The purpose of the epoxy is to relieve the shear stress on the tube-to-header braze joint to ensure a long leak free life for radiators used in extreme conditions. The common misconception is that epoxy is used to “glue” radiators together. Some manufacturer's may do this, but Griffin does not. And remember, we make so many different types, not all use epoxy. |
Re: Restoring Rusty
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Rusty is getting on my nerves!
I just done did the front brakes three months ago in February (for the first time on this truck ever) and the driver side is running really hot all of a sudden! 216°F |
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as opposed to the passenger side, which is a cool 130° F
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Wheel bearings/races? I would have said the pads are not retracting enough, but I've never experienced that, and I assume it would make noise. But I've been known to be wrong, like that time I thought I was mistaken.:)
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Re: Restoring Rusty
Did you change the hoses on the front wheels. I had one that the hose would collapse right after I did a caliper and brake change.
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Re: Restoring Rusty
Got the info below off the Interweb. And you might want to start by over-tightening while spinning the wheel to make sure everything is seated.
The following procedure is one method for adjusting the end play in a wheel bearing set. Tighten the adjusting nut while turning the rotor. When the effort to turn the rotor increases, a preload is placed on bearing assembly and all raceway surfaces are in contact, providing no end play. Back off the nut one flat to allow insertion of the cotter key. The end play can be checked with a dial indicator. Mount the indicator with a magnetic or mechanical base as close to the center of the hub as possible. The indicator tip is set on a smooth surface at the end of the spindle. Push the rotor back and set the indicator to zero. Then pull the rotor or drum out and read the dial indicator. Allow 0.004-inch (0.100 mm) ± 0.003-inch (0.076 mm) of end play, then lock the nut with a new cotter pin. Whether you are checking a conventional wheel bearing or hub bearing, the best tool for checking adjustment is a dial indicator. Many four-wheel-drive vehicles and most trucks with a load rating of one ton and higher use a full floating axle. The axle has a bearing set, spindle and hub. The same adjustment procedure can be used for these applications. |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
If the hoses are originals, that would be my bet. Reasoning being if you did the brake-work of both sides the same & are only having an issue on one side, it would be reasonable to assume you did it right unless you were questioning yourself about the technical aspect @ that time.
I would inspect the caliper pins as well since these can get 'sticky' (thus not allowing the caliper to properly float). My money would be on the hoses though. It sucks.... When this happened to me & because @ the >200° temps, I had to replace the wheel bearings again to feel everything was no longer suspect. |
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did a bit of troubleshooting of the brakes today, let me walk you through what I did and my thinking process
since one side (passenger) appears to be fine we have something to compare the bad side (driver) to so I lifted the front end with the wheels still on off the ground (secured by jackstands behind the front wheels, not visible in the pics) and: 1. simply spun each wheel by hand to see if one wheel had more drag than the other - not really with the wheels off 4. I inspected the pads for even wear and how much meat they still had on them, and all four showed equal wear and plenty of meat, look brand new(ish) as they shouldso I will take the truck for a test drive tomorrow and check the external wheel temps again, maybe miraculously the driver side wiggled itself loose, if not it's new caliper and rubber hose time |
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I hate this, stay tuned next week when we will find out the mystery. LOL
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Gregski -- What was the symptom that caused you to measure the temperatures?
Also, did you physically look at inner and outer wheel bearings and races? |
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2. very slight smell of something burning (I thought it was a wire conduit gently touching the exhaust manifold at first) this may sound stupid, but I sorta developed The Truck Whisper, not bragging just I can honestly feel when something aint right, I may not always know what is wrong, but something just bugs me and I have to investigate, I'm sure why you all drive your trucks you develop the same thing over time Quote:
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so back in December of 2018 I gave my truck a proper gauge overhaul by completely abandoning the factory OEM circuit board based cluster and it's accompanying analog gauges in favor of the Intellitronix (pronounced: cheapest) digital ones, and for the most part I have been happy with them.
The most part is comprised of me being 100% happy with the Volt, Fuel, Oil, and Temp quartet (other than should have gone with white instead of the green display) these little guys have been completely headache free. However I can't say the same thing for the larger Speedo and Tach. First they arrived not properly assembled right off the bat, then I sent them back for free repairs and one came back glued back on crooked, and I spent a year trying to get them to work reliably (would wig out with the blinkers and or headlights on) , which I finally managed to do by running completely separate ground leads for each these two gauges absolutely did not like to share their grounds no matter what, although ultimately the leads go to the same ground bolt under the dash, go figure. In addition to the gauges I also built my own warning lights, simple stuff a red brake light (that never works) a yellow Check Engine Light, a blue high beams light, and two green turn signal lights. These lights is what we are going to focus on today, as they have their own story. |
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so I am on the home stretch with this truck and this is simply about tying up loose ends, so let me list the electrical issues as of this [ahem] ... morning, ha ha
1. the original green turn signal LEDs glow white not greenso I ordered a second set of these LEDs from All Electronics and am ready to do some touch ups couple observations since I first installed them, they are plastic, so they are pretty flimzy especially the threads on the barrel as you try and screw on the backing o ring type of thing, second, their male blade connectors are so tiny that I think I finally found the proper female ends to go on them, I think they are the 3 mil ones and not the 1/4" etc Note: I solder all my connections to ensure proper connectivity so these being plastic sucks, as they tend to heat up and melt a bit just enough for the male blade connector to sink back into the plastic housing, cry me a river, right?! |
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I think the turn signal light staying solid and not flashing means an open in the circuit. Such as a bulb being burnt out. Or if it’s the left aide that dim fender bulb Could be the culprit. Posted via Mobile Device |
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I have three also. I’m not allowed to sell any of them. My kids have claimed and named my trucks. Not as eloquently as your naming scheme mind you but named nonetheless. There’s the “off road truck” 72 K10, “the new truck” 86 K30 crew and “the new new truck” 88 crew. Posted via Mobile Device |
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I have a couple more. The Nukon. Because when I sold our Yukon and bought an Escalade... Escalade wasn’t nearly as catchy as the New Yukon which eventually was abbreviated to simply The Nukon. Posted via Mobile Device |
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so got the ol' gauge cluster on the AW-WB (Absent Wife - Work Bench) and I like to use stainless pots as a soldering aid but you do you, if teflon is your thing, use teflon, I really don't care
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Public Service Announcement: these hard plastic shielded butt connectors are the worst, do NOT use them, ever !!!
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well found one problem with the Red brake light, it was bad plug in that short pig tail between the harness and the proportioning valve, this is the last piece I would have guessed would have failed, there are absolutely no moving pieces in this thing, yet it did
I honestly do not get the purpose of this 9" pig tail, why not just run the harness directly to the switch on the valve itself, which is what I did of course my fix worked in testing but stopped as soon as I put the dash all back together, LOL Lesson Learned: when it works it does NOT turn on with the key ON, it does however come on momentarily as you crank the engine over in the START position, then goes out again, makes sense I guess, not sure the juice is worth the squeeze on this one, if I were to re wire / re gauge another truck I would not bother with the red brake light I would not install one, not worth the headache |
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