Re: Restoring Rusty
 

and all the pistons out of the passenger side as well, and numbered

I realize I'm stamping them on the bottom part that comes off but I don't plan on having more than one apart at a time

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

tried to take a picture of the part number on one of the pistons, 6271096 I think it was so stock size 4"

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

then it was time for a Dingleberry hone job with the engine in the car

used trans fluid as a lubricator

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

made this metal shield to protect the crank from the stones of death

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

I took care to cover things up and tried my best to prevent debry from falling in where it don't belong

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

before and after honing pics

the mirror like finish is actually what you don't want when putting in new rings, you want it to be dull(ish) like the second pic

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

just a look at another cylinder, before and after

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

this is the shield / crank guard at work

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

yes I did get a ton done in one day, I wrapped things up late at night by de-ringing the pistons, and oh boy did I find two problems

but first the good side, the passenger side, all de-ringed

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

things got a bit more interesting on the driver's side

two oil rings were broken, can you guess which two? remember the two middle chambers in that head

#3

#5

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

no gentlemen I did not brake them whilst removing them off the piston, they were broken already that's why they would not spin at all

here's a closer look at #3 oil ring snapped in two

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

and here is the broken oil ring of #5, this one broke into three pieces, a tiny small one if you look closely

I think we found our problem(s) folks!

so lots and lots of work today, I can't believe I tore it all apart in one day so quickly like that, and I hope to put it all back together tomorrow

can I do it? stay tuned...

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Oh me. You're elbow deep now.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Dude, your energy amazes me. You get more accomplished on your rig in one day then I have on mine in the last two years. Thumbsup man!

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

LoL thanks bro, did I mention the wife was out of town, hee hee 🤓

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Wow - impressive amount of progress. Waiting to see the plan to address this. Better set of rings? Something you can do to keep the next set from breaking... Good luck getting it all back together today!

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Just scored some Sealed Power (aka Federal Mogul) E251X cast iron rings for $46.84 at O'Really's. They wouldn't quite match Summit's price of $30.97 but gave them to me for $42.99 plus tax, so I am very happy.

The guy used to own a machine shop and said they seal better in less than perfect conditions such as mine.

Summit description reads: "These OE-quality Sealed Power cast piston rings are made from ductile iron and are specifically designed for stock rebuilds."

and they were made in the U.S.A. - Bonus!

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

well after cooking the kids breakfast (yes I took them to IHOP - shhhh, don't tell the wife) I had an hour this morning to prep the block for the pistons, ie scrape the old gaskets off

Fun Level: -2

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

That coolant you found... Is the block cracked?

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

First pic in post 4767

1- looks like you need to cut the ridge off the top of the cylinders
2- is that a mark on the crankshaft journal? What do the bearings look like

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

shhhh don't even say that, ha ha

that's a mystery I have not cracked yet, pun intended

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

a que tip, seriously? is this guy really that anal

um, have you meet The Greg!

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

and the block all squeaky clean and Piston Ready

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

I will have to take another look at the crank, when I examined it the first time, it looked good, bearings had normal wear, but I bought brand new ones anyway

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

If you could get the pistons out fairly easily, you can probably get away without removing the ring ridge. Theoretically, the new rings won't hit the ridge, or be damaged by the ridge. We hope.

I like the flex (ball) hone for finish better than the cylinder hone you used. It will still work either way, as long as the glazing has been removed.

My block had 0.007" taper, and it took a bit of wiggling to get the pistons out. I got half-way through cleaning the pistons (Easy Off over cleaner works great - just don't
let the cleaner linger on the pistons. Soaking in Diesel works well, too), and decided I didn't want to be here again in 5 years, so I had it bored 0.020". And balanced. And with a torque plate. And the cha-ching cha-ching for machining.

Is this the original block?