Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Well you was right about the price, I saw the same one that I bought for $39 on their website so I called them up and asked if they would price match their own site and they said bring it in and we'll see what we can do. So today I drove in with my Chinese wrench in hand and got $32 bucks credited back to my account, nice, the new wrench is sorta worth the $39 bucks I paid for it, makes it easier to swallow

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Status Report: so after rejetting the carb to the 63/67 primary/secondary jets the truck runs better, I drove it in to work today again then ran over to SEARS, but its still lean at WOT, so tonight after it cools off (the engine not the weather, ha ha) we will rejet it to 64/69 the default jets the carb would have come with new

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

I was going to use fel-pro ms98000t, but if those 1255's seal just as good i'll use those instead. I like that price a lot better.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

That is a good gasket but I think it's only available in a kit, which is pretty expensive if you just want that gasket. Stock Suburbans run them, see below

Re: Restoring Rusty - Engine Ratlle
 

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Wow that sucks
Posted via Mobile Device

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Yup, big time!

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Well I strapped on my ol' exhaust manifolds back on with the ol' LMC Truck dual exhaust with the generic turbo mufflers and the rattle is still there, so the good news is it wasn't my Hooker headers leaking again, the bad news is we don't know what it is, and it could be ugly, something in the bottom end

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

unplugged one spark plug at a time and started and ran the engine to see if the rattle noise goes away and it does not, darn it, tomorrow the oil pan comes off and we take a deeper dive

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

In your last trip into your engine did you check the condition of the main bearings when you replaced the rod bearings? Did you check the rod bearing clearance when you were there? In most cases people have the crank polished when they do bearings.

I was surprised to see you deglazed the cylinder bores with the crank still in and replace the rod bearings without polishing the crank or check the makings (maybe you did but didn't tell us?). At this point you would have been farther ahead to send the block to the shop to get cleaned up inside and out, had crank turned or just polished and had them put new cam bearings in. Then you'd have a whole new motor. Sorry for the set back, I know how that can be. Knowing which corner to cut can be tricky.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Good Luck.. Hopefully it's something simple

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Make sure the rod caps were put on the correct way.

The two "tangs" that notch the bearings in go together.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

True but I didn't have $1,500 to spend and I wanted to do the work myself or at least see if I could

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Yes sir, I payed attention when I took them off and I noticed that there was a sharp pointy ridge or edge on the driver side bearing caps all pointing to the front of the truck and the opposite was true on the passenger side so I made sure I put them back in, in the same fashion, I even double checked after torquing down the cap bolts to spec

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

I'll tell you this much I will be pissed and relieved at the same time if I just find my 9/16ths six point socket rattling in the oil pan (I'm looking at you Craftsman you know you love to get lost all the time) ha ha

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Did you change the oil pump while you had the pan off?

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

No, cause it is brand new I did that about 6 months ago already, new pump new pickup screen etc.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

These notches, in green. You can see the shadow of the notch on the rod.

Though it sounds like you put the caps on correctly anyway.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Well it's probably not needed then... :lol::lol:

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

You bought standard size bearings IIRC. Could it be possible the rod journals are already 0.010 under and you bought the wrong bearings? If you have the old bearings check the backside and see if they are 10 under bearings.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

I forgot about that, but I wondered about that too when you bought the bearings and mentioned they were standard size. Did you mic the crank to see if it'd been turned?

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Originals were stock

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Of course not, ha ha, this is a dingleberry rebuild, if I was to do it all over again I would have re used the old bearings and just changed the rings, oh well, live and learn

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Status Update: so dropped the oil pan and did not get killed by any falling shrapnel, so that's good

managed to pull out the first four bearing sets (to do the others I need to rotate the crank and things will get mangled or the pistons will have to be pushed up out of the way) so we do half at a time

#1 more wear than #3 and #4 too loose to snap back in to the cap

#2 more wear than #3 and #4 too loose to snap back in to the cap

#3 normal wear, snaps back in to the cap

#4 normal wear, snaps back in to the cap

as you know The Greg only blames himself or at least himself first, but remember how my torque wrench gave up the ghost while torquing the cylinder heads, well guess what the last thing I torqued prior to that was my bearing caps, so there I'm looking at you Craftsman

so I am going to get two new bearings and pop them in to #1 and #2 and torque them down with my brand new China made Craftsman torque wrench

Gentlemen, I have seen many opposite recommendations on how to install the new bearnigs, from clean them with brake fluid, wipe them down and install them dry, to use engine oil, to goop some engine assembly lube on them, so what are your favorite ways to install these bad boys? the last time The Greg just used engine oil

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Clean them with brake kleen then use engine oil or assembly lube, your choice, can't go wrong with either. Dry is not a good idea IMO. Also not checking that you have the right bearing could mean another trip back into the engine and another replacement. Plastigauge is a sound method for checking journal clearance. How about those main bearings? If the rod bearings needed replacing then the mains did also. Might want to check then while your in there.