Re: Restoring Rusty - Brake Pedal Disassembly
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http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lucas-Oil...0533/202535870 |
Re: Restoring Rusty
That should work. Lubriplate is the brand I have the most faith in, but white lithium grease is what you want.
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Looking great. You do go all the way out!
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I agree with Rich that the lithium grease is the stuff to use. But how far wrong can you really go? Any grease is going to be better then the dry fittings you currently have.
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The biggest issue is to get one with a wide temperature range, so 1) it doesn't get tight when cold and 2) doesn't run and drip when hot. That's why I say a lithium grease.
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Re: Restoring Rusty - Brake Pedal Disassembly
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just bought 14 oz Tube of Lubriplate 630-2 NLGI No. 2 Multi-Purpose Lithium Grease from Sky Geek, it always stings a bit when you pay more for shipping $12 bucks than the actual product $6 bucks. Oh well |
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The good news is that tube will probably last you forever. It's good for all kinds of things -- cars, motorcycles, toy trains, CD-ROM drive tray sliders, garage door openers, barbecue rotisserie motors, lawn mowers, etcetcetc. If it has gears or bearings or bushings, and doesn't have active lubrication from a sump (like engine, trans, transfer case and diff all do) then it's the way to go. But it doesn't take much. No need to glop it on. A 14 oz. tube is a lifetime supply for most people. I'm still using a 1-lb. tin of it my father gave me 50+ years ago. |
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Oh, BTW, be careful with that stuff. If you drop a glop of it on the floor, people will be losing their footing on that spot for the next hundred years no matter what you do to wipe it up.
Use very sparingly. |
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Hey! Don't get her mad at ME!
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Re: Restoring Rusty - Brake Pedal Parts
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spent some time cleaning the tiny bits
remember these rusty brake pedal parts, here they are after a night in an acid bath |
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oh snap, where's that hair pin clip thingie ???
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lets see if I lost any parts during the clutch pedal part cleaning
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picked up some Dormans' BRAKE & CLUTCH BUSHINGS from O'Reillys' for $4.00 bucks (two pairs of bushings from LMC Truck would run me $23 bucks)
The package is for FORD / GM so you know what that means? It don't fit good neither of them? LOL On the back it reads: Ford Cars 1994-73 GM Cars and Trucks 1995-55 but they don't tell you which is which, AWESOME! I believe two of the three pairs might could work. I say might could, cause one pair fits kinda snug (like the original brake one did) the other fits a bit loose (like the original clutch one did) HOWEVER questions being. - Was the original brake one snug cause it was rusted and dry as a bone, or is it supposed to be that way? - Was the original clutch one loose cause it was deteriorated and worn out, or is it supposed to be that way? Better question is how should these fit? Should the metal sleeve rotated freely in the plastic bushings or should it be snug in there and not move? Who knows? |
Re: Restoring Rusty
The flange on a bushing points at the part with respect to which the bushing should stay stationary, and away from the part with respect to which the bushing should move.
So in both of those, the shaft should rotate within the bushing. |
Re: Restoring Rusty
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also picked up this PEDAL AND SHIFT LINKAGE BUSHING KIT for $7.00 bucks also by Dormans'
DODGE/FORD/GM... hmmm even worse, LOL CONTENTS (Russian roulette style) 3 Selector Lever Bushings 1 Throttle Valve Bushing 1 Pedal Bushing ... again no idea which is which, might as well say "STUFF" I hope the white one on the bottom will fit / work in the top hole of the clutch pedal to receive the metal rod/linkage, we shall see FYI - LMC Truck does not carry this part (they hardly have what I really need, they seem to specialize in what I want though, if you get what I'm saying) Do I dare go to the Stealership for these?! |
Re: Restoring Rusty
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one of the challenges of putting something together where it could have had parts missing even before you touched it, is not knowing what's missing
Could someone tell me please what went on this stub on the clutch pedal? (thanks for nothing GM Service Manual) |
Re: Restoring Rusty
Yes, the safety start switch that will only let the starter crank when the clutch pedal is depressed (no start in gear / clutch out ).
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Is yours tuck-up under the dash ?
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Greg, what goes on that stub on the pedal is a big tension spring. What it does is hold the pedal in the fully up position, so the the weight of the pedal doesn't cause the throwout bearing to constantly ride against the clutch fingers. But it also increases the pressure to disengage the clutch a bit. The throwout bearings weren't intended to spin constantly when our trucks were made. But I think most modern throwout bearings actually do spin all the time.
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Greg, I found the following picture that kinda shows what's going on:
http://s181.photobucket.com/user/Die...ts013.jpg.html It's a 72, but the basic idea is the same. Sort of an over-center design. It may be that those springs on your z-bar effectively serve the same purpose. |
Re: Restoring Rusty
[quote=greg64;7059038]Greg, I found the following picture that kinda shows what's going on:
http://s181.photobucket.com/user/Die...ts013.jpg.html It's a 72, but the basic idea is the same. Sort of an over-center design. thank you so much Quote:
... and I don't mean to be a Drama Queen, but I just like doing things right and in order to put this linkage together properly I would like to know what I am missing and where it goes, capish? |
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Warning this spring is one very strong spring they are a real pain to deal with. Hook the top first then use a brake tool to "stretch" it over the pedal pin. It's a bit easier if you have the pedal on the floor. |
Re: Restoring Rusty
Hey, Gregski:
I found these in my PDF illustrated parts book, clipped the pages out and uploaded them to my site for you. Download them so I don't need to leave them on my site forever. I can also look up part numbers for specific parts if you need it. Sometimes the best way to find a part is just google the GM part number. http://users.rcn.com/weyand/smalls/7...utchPedals.pdf http://users.rcn.com/weyand/smalls/73-78Clutch.pdf You might also want to purchase the CDs of the parts books. I copied the CDs to my machine, and can scroll the whole book. http://horn-relay.dvautoparts.com/di...s-s-tiixsn8agk |
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You guys never give up. Good job...discussion, ideas, shared e-documents and scavenger search for old parts as well as assembly of new parts. Oh and all that with miles between us all.
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Re: Restoring Rusty - Painted Brake Pedal
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you guys didn't think I was just eatin' and sleepin' the last few days did you?
here is the brake pedal, original, wire brushed, acid dipped, and finally painted |
Re: Restoring Rusty - Painted Clutch Pedal
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a better man would have separated these two pieces, taken the clutch pedal completely apart, but hey "IT'S A TRUCK!!!"
first pic - original custom Rust Patina second pic - after using a 4" angle grinder with a wire brush third pic - brushed on some Phosphoric acid to get into nooks and cranies fourth pic - not drying paint inside the house on our beautiful hardwood floor, honey |
Re: Restoring Rusty
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with all the pedals and linkage bits drying it was time to move on to the transmission
first we used the "skateboard" as my daughter calls it to relocate it to the triage facility |
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I sure am learning a lot here today.!
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took off the rubber padded bracket that holds the transmission to the cross member, in order to clean both pieces more better
making a mental note that it goes back on there a certain way, seems like it sits closer to the passenger side as it is a bit off center by design |
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