Re: Restoring Rusty
Someone has been quite busy lately.
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Finally it was time to replace them shift solenoids
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Make sure the internal harness isn't leaking fluid around the pins through the connector.
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so this is where the solenoids live, I know it's upside down, but better than nothing
the one on the left (driver side) is the 1-2 and the one on the right (passenger side) is the 2-3 but they are both identical same part number |
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yes this transmission has a drain plug and yes the P.O. (pronounced: "guy who had it before me") tightened it as hard as she could plus a quarter turn, and stripped the head of the bolt so that I had no chance of getting it out
but since this was my first gear box with a drain plug I was determined to have one that works, even if it took me 3.5 hours to get it out |
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so the first test I did (right or wrong) was the Click Test, basically you hook up a solenoid to a car battery and listen to see if it clicks
the 1-2 solenoid had a loud(er) click than the 2-3 one so I think that's the one we are trying to replace |
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the second test and the more official one was the Horse Shoe Test
this is where we put our Multimeter on the horse shoe icon and check for The Reistance the 1-2 solenoid measured at 23.1 ohmsboth seemed within range, remember if you know nothing but have two of something, compare them then here's how the new ones tested the new 1-2 solenoid measured 25.6 ohms |
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Fun Level = 0
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so before I went to NAPA I did my homework, I literally ran my vehicle identification number through the GM VIN Decoder and I pranced in there saying I have a
2001 GMC Sierra 1500 2WD Regular Cab, Two Door, Standard Bed, Rear Wheel Drive, 4.8L V8 4L60e automatic transmission... and I need a shift solenoid for it The woman across the counter clicked and double clicked for a few seconds then looked up at me and I kid you not with a straight face asked me: "16 or 17 bolt oil pan?" WHAT ??? You have got to be kidding me well I took a pic of my oil pan, but I left my phone at home, can you believe that, so I tucked my tail between my legs and bolted home to count the holes, and get my phone, and I still managed to get the wrong filter from them, it was half as thin as mine |
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so off I went to Oh Reallys, where I picked up a thicker filter and a rubber gasket kit instead of the cork one
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The 4L80E, 4L60E, 4L65E, ... all do it. The other fun fact is the refrigerator magnet that GM installed in the transmission pans of a lot of their 1980's to 2009ish transmissions were not rated for the operating temps of the fluid. When you run magnets beyond their operational temp range they loose magnetic field strength and a part of the field strength goes away permanently. The field damage is cumulative. The fix is to use the round filter magnets from the Saturn and Allison 1,000 transmissions that were rated for 350°F or some high temp rare earth magnets in place of that fridge magnet in the pan. |
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Among the transmissions listed besides my 4T65E is the 4L80E, 4L60E, & 4L65E. I read some about what happens to magnets when they are run at temps just slightly beyond their happy zone. I knew about completely demagnetizing a magnet by heating to straw color but I was unaware of how bad it was to repeatedly run them at slightly elevated temps. They'll still gather iron filings but eventually they weaken to the point where the pan magnet field strength is eclipsed by the field strength of the electromagnet coils in the control solenoids. As the field strength of the pan magnet decreases the loose iron filings will gather on the control solenoids. When you add iron filings to an electromagnet the field strength increases in an uncontrolled and unpredictable manner. Similar to modifying the iron winding core of a transformer with an angle grinder. Basic High School Physics. The TCM or PCM is programmed to vary the current flow to the solenoid coils, and thus the magnetic field of the solenoid coils, based on a solenoid that hasn't been modified (poisoned) by additional iron. When you poison the solenoids in this manner you get erratic operation because the additional iron keeps the field from pushing the iron plungers at the same rate as a fresh solenoid. Eventually the TCM or PCM will get upset about it. Well before the controller notices and gets upset you get accelerated clutch wear, additional heat from the loosey goosey clutch engagements, and sometimes shock damage to things like the sun shell and the sprags from the erratic clutch engagement. This all is one of the reasons I run an inline Magnefine filter in my transmission cooler return line. The magnet is properly specced for the operating temps and the additional 25 micron paper filter element doesn't hurt anything. They have a bypass function to make up for a plugged paper filter element. I can change the filter when I change my engine oil and filter. With the drain plug in the transmission pan there's no reason to drop the pan since the inline filter is 25 microns. The pickup strainer screen that filters at 100+ microns will never see enough crud to plug up. |
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"Horseshoe icon" and "prancing" gave me the laughs I needed today. Thanks.
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I feel bad you have these problems with the truck but really enjoy learning a lot from this thread.
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so a couple months back I took this bench seat to an upholsterer, and they had it for six weeks and did not do a darn thing all because they could not get one bolt out to separate the back rest from the bottom
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well, today I tried to get that bolt out, and it took all of 30 seconds, I swear I spent more time sweeping up the drill shavings than actually extracting the bolt
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Gregski: 1 / Ralph's Scott's Unmotivated Upholstery Unlimited: 0
Nice work. |
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Not Good News ladies and gentlemen, replacing the two shift solenoids on my 4L60e automagic transmission did not get rid of the clunk sound, the transmission shifts fine and I can drive it but there's an annoying clunk as if a metal ball bearing was rolling and hit a metal wall every time it shifts, any ideas on what it could be and how to fix it?
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Greg, try hitting up Clinebarger in the drivetrain area and see if he can give you some help.
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Bulletin No.: 01-07-30-042E Date: May 21, 2007 INFORMATION Subject: Information on 2-3 Upshift or 3-2 Downshift Clunk Noise Models: 2008 and Prior Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2003-2008 HUMMER H2 2006-2008 HUMMER H3 2005-2008 Saab 9-7X with 4L60-E, 4L65-E or 4L70-E Automatic Transmission (RPOs M30, M32, M70) Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add the 2008 model year and 4L70E transmissions. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-07-30-042D (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle). For 2005 model year fullsize utilities and pickups, refer to Corporate Bulletin 05-07-30-012. Some vehicles may exhibit a clunk noise that can be heard on a 2-3 upshift or a 3-2 downshift. During a 2-3 upshift, the 2-4 band is released and the 3-4 clutch is applied. The timing of this shift can cause a momentary torque reversal of the output shaft that results in a clunk noise. This same torque reversal can also occur on a 3-2 downshift when the 3-4 clutch is released and the 2-4 band applied. This condition may be worse on a 4-wheel drive vehicle due to the additional tolerances in the transfer case. This is a normal condition. No repairs should be attempted. |
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Well since the shifts are not as crisp (mooshy actaully) on this 4.8L/4L60e as they are on my other truck the 5.3L/4L60e I decided I am going to try the famous Corvette servo swap, it's cheap and seams pretty easy
darn it I just don't want to wait a week for AMAZON to ship it |
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WE NOW INTERRUPT THIS TRANSMISSION REPAIR TO BRING YOU YET ANOTHER STEEL BRAIDED LINE FAILURE !!!
This is now the third line that has failed on me. And I'm not a smart man but when the low pressure side fuel line fails, we know we have a problem. Last time the high pressure side failed and a transmission line failed which I assumed was the high pressure side as well. What sucks about this is that it is a return home run to the fuel tank, so we got to drop the tank to R n R it, super! FYI it actually failed above that hose clamp at what appears to be a gentle swoop and not a pinch or kink or it rubbing on anything, and I am just pointing to the line which has the leak just so I know which one to replace, ha ha Fun Level = * please see the cuss jar * |
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so after fighting with the steel braided lines in an effort to just replace the last 3 feet to avoid dropping the tank I decided to ditch the steel braided hose all together, I never wanted to run steel braided lines to begin with, they are more show than go, and if it's good enough for Holley and their EFI kit it's good enough for me, especially for the low pressure return line
and yes we are using a reinforced fuel injection hose and not just a regular soft rubber fuel line by the way slipping on AN fitting on to this rubber hose is 7.83 times easier than slicing your thumbs up on the steel braided ones, so there's that and this is my daily driver so I need to get it out of the garage |
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so I go to put the fuel line back on the Summit brand barrel style inline fuel filter (I had to remove it to get to the other line) anyway I get the obligatory gasoline waterfall down my sleeve, so I think what the hewk, and I remove the filter to examine it, and sure enough that flimzy rubber O-ring has failed and the filter now leaks like a sieve
now you know how I feel about aftermarket parts, well I went with this one cause it has 6AN standard male screw on ends unlike the OEM one which is metric female, but I will be going back to the OEM with adapters, shieshs this quick RnR is turning into a Footspagh right quick and take a look at that "filter" it is a wire mesh the size of a quarter, that's it, that's your filter, can you say Good Bye to your injectors?! |
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and this is what a civilized fuel filter looks like, this one happens to be a Product of the USA from AC Delco (lets pause in appreciation for a minute)
some will have an arrow marking the direction of the fuel flow, that is important, some of the aftermarket ones can be installed in either directions but once installed you should not flip them around if the filters are not marked I noticed the welded end is the outlet side and the nicely curved smooth end is the inlet side |
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as mentioned before these AN to Metric adapter doodads are required to plumb the OEM fuel filter and this is where you will spend 73.8 percent of your time whilst carrying out an LS Swap Operation aka LSSO hunting down adapters, converters, and flux capacitors
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