Re: Restoring Rusty - Muncie SM465
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cleaned the tin transmission side covers in preparation for paint
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Re: Restoring Rusty - Muncie SM465 Gasket Set
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then after 3 long days the Muncie SM465 Fel-Pro Gasket Set arrived
that's right my Township Autozone had to special order these gaskets, what special order for a dime a dozen Cheby 350? so I go to pick 'em up today, and the box is torn in half (as shown) I say to the young lady I hope everything's in there, she assures me it is [aha] well sure as heck the constructions (as my three year old would call his Lego's instructions) be missin', one of the reasons I get Fel-Pro gaskets is for their 3x5 card instructions, and here they are missing also see how they packaged that large gasket, why would they do that, why not get a bigger box? [they need to hire Summit shipping guys] |
Re: Restoring Rusty
Smh...
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Re: Restoring Rusty
I'll be honest wichya all I've spent the evening wrasslin with that pig and I just can't get the lid back on her for the life of me
now something told me don't glue / goop the new gasket on there just yet, first try to just put the lid back on, and sure enuff I can't I am trying to find some video on YouTube right now to figure it out, I know to take it off I had to put the joystick half way in reverse, but guess what I can not shift at all right now with the lid off the tranny any advice / tips greatly appreciated |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
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so I took a deep breath and removed the cover and tried again with no gasket this time and she shifted and turned in all gears so I did a third take (with gasket this time fer good) and got her in - the key is lining up those three large slider bars in the lid like in the pic below, see how the one is longer than the other two, it is not all the way out, nor is it in neutral it is in between, the other two sisters are just snapped in to neutral (very technical explanation I know) and here's a top tip, after you get the lid back on, the transmission is still stuck half way in Reverse so you may not be able to get her to shift I took a large screw driver and snapped her all the way in Neutral or reverse I forget which and then I could stick the shifter back in and shift |
Re: Restoring Rusty
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I am fixin on re assemblin' the bell housing and the clutch fork and throwout bearing, question is will I be using the Lubriplate lithium grease on the metal ball joint that the metal clutch fork pivots on inside the bellhousing, or is there some other grease I should consider?
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Re: Restoring Rusty
I've always used a dab of heavy axle grease.
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Re: Restoring Rusty
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Castrol Multi Purpose Wheel Bearing Grease NLGI No. 2 (now I aint no mathematician but if that aint no oximoron I don't know what is, how can something be multi purpose / wheel bearing grease, that's like saying any flavor / black cherry, LOL) |
Re: Restoring Rusty
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Re: Restoring Rusty
Use the white lithium grease. Axle grease is for load-bearing situations such as axle bearings and U-joints and the swivel plates underneath the tires on an alignment rack. It holds up under those loads better than white lithium grease, BUT it has a higher drag to motion than white lithium grease for low-load applications. That is, it is less slippery for low-load applications. Anything other than axle bearings and U-joints on a vehicle, you are better off with white lithium grease.
For high-load applications, TRC 880 Crown & Chassis Grease is number 1. (IMO, OC!) |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
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so it was time to button up the transmission I used the Permatex Spray-A-Gasket Sealant to get the gaskets tacky
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Re: Restoring Rusty
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cleaned the siamese twins, Phil and D'rain
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Re: Restoring Rusty
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and then it was time to paint the transission
Finally, thought this day would never come (I know you and me both) Wait you gonna paint it white? No, that paint needs a mixin' though it does look old like it's left over from when they painted the Titanic. There, that's better... G R A Y |
Re: Restoring Rusty
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and here is our subject (I did tape off the electric switches for backup lights and that SMOG thing)
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Re: Restoring Rusty
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wait what? You painted it WHITE?
wait a minute, that's not the color I wanted? It was supposed to be gray, I was picturing cast iron. I know POR15 has a SILVER, but I purposely bought GRAY. LOL |
Re: Restoring Rusty - Eastwood Metal Blackening Solution
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and what do we have here?
seriously, that's all that was in the box? Yup, Eastwood's Metal Blackening Solution $14 bucks plus another $5 for shipping, not bad now back in the day, Eastwood had a two part Metal Blackening kit, it came with: 1. Blackening Solution 2. Sealant you would dip the metal in the first plastic container than dip it in the second, job done! then they realized they can make a whole lot more money by adding a bunch of stuff to the kit nobody needed, like safety goggles, rubber gloves, some crappy cleaning product, and by the way they replaced the sealant with clear lacquer in a rattle can fine but does it work? well in its full strength (hey I paid for it I will mix it or not mix it how I please, JK) in its full strength this is what it did in 1 minute of soaking it turned a silver part darker silver, LOL, question is will this prevent rusting, and by the way I did spray it with my own clear in a rattle can |
Re: Restoring Rusty
Hey Greg, that transmission looks a lot better painted, and now it won't become a rusty mess. On my 465, I used POR-15 black, which turned out fine. However, I subsequently bought their cast iron grey paint, and I've used that a few times with good results. Basically looks like the part is unpainted, except that it is.
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Re: Restoring Rusty
I'm glad you are getting this thing back in order!
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Re: Restoring Rusty
man this is a sweet build!!
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Re: Restoring Rusty
Loving this build! Awesome work!
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Re: Restoring Rusty
Say brotha Greg your inbox is full.
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Re: Restoring Rusty
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so since the transmission did not turn out the color I wanted (too light) I did what any grown man would do, I went crying to my friends
one of my buddies we shall call him Cliff Clavin goes, well you do still have the black POR15 you used on the frame rail don't ya, and I go YEAH, so he says why don't you mix some of that in to darken the gray OMG - why didn't I think of that, and so I did, and it darkened up, and I think the second coat looks better, what do you all think? |
Re: Restoring Rusty
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side by side for good measure, shoot it does look darker in person, not that much in pictures, oh well, I'm happier
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Re: Restoring Rusty - Broken Clutch Fork
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so here is another reason why I like to clean parts, I just realized my clutch fork is broken and we are in need of a replacement
once again had to place an order @ The AutoZone and $18 bucks and 2 days later it will be here hard to see but I circled the broken end in the pic below |
Re: Restoring Rusty
The darker looks much better!
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Awesome thread, I've been reading it for the last weak on my breaks at work.
Just caught up current tonight at home.... By the way, I'm local in West Sac... Very motivating, started cleaning my garage up again to get back to work on mine..... Thanks Brent...... |
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http://www.por15.com/HIGH-TEMP_p_104.html But this Metal Mask stuff looks like it could work too: http://www.por15.com/METAL-MASK_p_40.html I've also used the engine enamels, and they are really tough too. So is the Hard Nose 2-part paint. |
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Re: Restoring Rusty - Where's my grease?
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It's been a week since I ordered the Lubriplate lithium grease, so where is it you ask? Well apparently it's still on Tour! Last I heard it was opening up for STP (get it, LOL) I kid you not, this thing went New York, New Jersey, Indiana, Nebraska, Utah, and as I write this it landed in California
Seriously though Estimated Arrival Date is March 6th, 2015... another week! |
Re: Restoring Rusty
Yikes. That's ... unusual.
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Re: Restoring Rusty - New Clutch Fork
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on the way home picked up the special ordered clutch fork (who would think you had to special order anything for a Small Block Chevy, a pick up for that matter, SBC 350's are as popular as apple pie...
anyway, I was pleased to see that they actually painted this thing BLACK, cool, I won't have to do it |
Re: Restoring Rusty
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comparing the new clutch fork to the original, I noticed I would have to remove the spring bracket from the old and mount it to the new one, two minutes later... DONE
then popped the throwout bearing in the fork and snapped fork inside the bell housing I like clean parts, they are so much nicer to work with |
Re: Restoring Rusty - Speedometer Cable
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figured it might be easier to service at least half the speedo cable while the transmissions is out of the car, so disconnected it from the other half that runs to the actual speedometer, cleaned it and yanked out the innards and lubbed the inside nice and good
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