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so Rule #7 clearly states if you don't know what you is a doin' than Stare 'N Compare bro and so we is going to compare twisty turney thing on the driver side to the twisty turney thing on the passenger side first after wire wheelin' them a bit we can actually see they are a slotted, cool we can see how much threads are in them and how far apart |
Re: Restoring Rusty
well after a couple hours and some fine "adjustments" and I use that term loosely, ha ha I thought I had the problem resolved both wheels were slightly toed in and each side went to the side an equal distance stopping just before the steer stop on either side - NICE
well but a test drive proved otherwise, the truck drove ok, but it felt like I could make tighter turns to the right than to the left so... the Greg found me a nice empty parking lot, 57 feet wide with concrete edges on either side so you could not go out of bounce and cheat sort of speak then I proceeded to make a right hand turn with the wheel turned as tight to the right as possible and I just barely made a couple perfect circles to the right within the confines of that parking lot ok, awesome now lets try the other way, so I turned the wheel 4 turns to the left, ie all the way and gave it a shot, low and behold I could not fit inside that parking lot in other words I am unable to make a U turn within 57 feet help! |
Re: Restoring Rusty
Could your pitman arm not be clocked in the right position? I think they could be installed in different postions. Not sure if that could cause your issue though
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thanks for trying to help, I wish I baselined this with my old power steering box still on, but things seemed fine so I had no idea what problems I would have with the manual box I bought the manual box with the pitman arm to avoid these types of headaches but I still ran into issues I think its a tie rod linkage issues, but I am not sure |
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Could it be one tooth off inside the box?
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Well crap. Get this thing resolved ok. Good luck.
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Greg if you remove the drag link from the pitman arm or the pitman arm from the sector you can then turn the sector from lock to lock. Count the turns then return the sector to center. Now look at the splines on the output shaft. The pitman arm should be parallel with the frame when mounted on the sector. That should get it closer.
Does anyone know if the draglink is different for manual or power steering? |
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http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/wp-co...ev28jl2009.pdf
This pdf is for gm cars but may apply to your steering box too. On page 2 it says the some 73-74 boxes have more tavel right than left |
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Anyone heard of BAW tie rod ends? The PO put one of those on the driver side and I'm broke so I was only gonna buy one to match it
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just want to pause and thank everyone trying to help out, thank you for your comments and advice, I had no idea this little "project" was going to kick my butt
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on the way home from work today stopped by AutoZone and rented this here HammerHead
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since I had to pull the manual steering box back off I figured I would take some pics of specialty tools and such needed for the job that I didn't have time to take the first time around, here I am abusing a pitman arm puller
really aint no other way to git this thing off that I know of |
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Never time to do it right, but always time to do it over, I'm sure we've all heard that before
so since I had the box off I took it upon myself to replace one of the bearing cups, one was pitted / damaged probably by the one bearing that gave way and shattered and the person kept driving the vehicle I actually had to devise a puller to pull the bearing forward about an 1/8th of an inch before the slide hammer jaws could even get in there you ain't wrenched until you made or modified your own tools, am I right fellars? |
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a side by side comparison of the old damaged bearing cup and the new replacement one
hey man I aint perfect but I try to do a good job |
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then it was time to use my portable press on my 20" by 20" concrete bench top (aka garage floor)
gentle now... even the retainer found its way back into place to keep the bearing from falling out |
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then I had to remove both outter steering tie rods, I know some say don't use the Yamaha tuning fork, but I tried the screw the crown nut to the bolt and try to hammer it out but it just wouldn't budge
and yes I ruined the rubber on the new tie rod on the driver side, but oh well I couldn't find a match for it anyway |
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here's the BAW tie rod no one's ever heard of
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Gregski, i just bought an NOS manual box for my pile.
If yours is terminal... I have a known good used one I'd donate. |
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and this is the OEM GM one from the passenger side, this one has seen better days, but believe it or not inside it was solid
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ah man... don't tell me we is gonna clean this thing if we're just gonna replace it...
you know how NASCAR tears up the engine right after each race for a close inspection, well Busted Knuckless Garage aint no different we must examine each part for goodness or badness people all I'm saying is this part after 42 years of service deserves to be in a Museum not in the Trash, that's all I'm sayin' |
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I'm telling you this thing with a little love from a grease gun and a new universal rubber boot could be good for another 42 years if we had to use it
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So I went to NAPA for some new tie rod ends, it being closest to my house, and the dude there had the balls to pass off some ends made in China as MOOG to me, I said no thanks, he said MOOG makes those for us, yeah right, it was some generic no name brand
so I bolted out of there and went to O-Really's they were out of stock of their Moog brans, but I remembered I once got some Master Pro parts from them and they was made in the US, so I asked for a couple boxes, but no luck these were made in China, but it was late at night and I really wanted to test drive the truck tonight so NOT my proudest moment, but I bought some Master Pro outter tie rod ends, well look on the bright side, at least both sides match now and both sides are new, that's a win for this TRUCK |
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Oh, almost forgot, I called Midwest Steering, (the place where I got my rebuild kit) earlier this morning and spoke to _________ (fill in name when I remember) the nicest guy, wow they actually believe in Customer Service
anywho I asked them how many balls are supposed to go into that ball screw thingie, he asked for the part number 5698180 and said that case part number came with different guts in it, so he looked at a pic of my ball screw (on this there forum) and said they either came with 54 balls or 50, yours came with 50 whew I was relieved cause I read somewheres on the InterWebs that these things took 54 balls and I swore I was careful when I emptied mine and only counted 50, great I thought I lost 4 darn so when I rerebuilt it tonight I removed the 4 extra balls I stuck in there from one of the busted bearings, interestingly after re alignment my box is now 6 turns lock to lock instead of 4, hmmm |
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ok man, but how does it steer?
well I thought you would never ask... Now I can't make a U turn in that 57 foot wide parking lot either way, neither right hand turn, nor a left hand turn, LOL great, so what does that mean? did I fix things by balancing them out? or did I make them worse? man I don't know, I honestly don't know I will drive the truck to work for a few days and report back to you all on what I think, right now I am 50/50 on this manual steering conversion, and my arms are already sore, hee hee |
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Looks like someone got a BAW part in an AC Delco box. (see post #27 & 48) Weird. Read here: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=714531 |
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I cut a Flowmaster off an '04 5.3L F-150 and put on a brand new Magnaflow... to cut the drone. Worked great too. Then I towed my 5,700 LB (probably closer to 7K with water, groceries and beer loaded) trailer out to Banff, Alberta through the Mountains. That little 5.3 Triton was turning pretty fast getting up the big hills. By the time I got home, the exhaust from those 5500+ RPM hills had pounded the glass baffles in the Magnaflow flat and the truck droned worse than ever. |
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That is insane....so you can go out of your way to buy AC Delco parts, pay a higher price, and still end up with some cheap part? Or I guess you could go to a dealership and buy there....after you stop in the bank for a personal loan...
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allow me to provide you with some steering updates as progress has been made
The Greg attempted a DIY Alignment mostly just to adjust the Toe in properly step one was to inflate all the tires to 35 PSI and I only had to go to THREE gas stations to git it done, I have lost all faith in humanity, most pumps were broken or pieces were stolen, disgusting yes dummy over here useta have two air compressors but sold them both |
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The DIY Alignment Tools of the Trade
Rocket science this is not! two sets of jack stands some string (cause string can't be crooket, well sure but you git the idea) and a measuring implement |
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so we start at the back, I like to set my jack stands a bit passed the end of the car, then we run the string the length of the car
the goal is to have a straight line based on the rims of the rear wheel, so I start at the back of the wheel and I measure 1" inch from the edge of the rim to the string then I measure exactly 1" from the front edge of the rear wheel to the string, that gives me a straight line to the front wheels there's a name for this but it escapes me now string may appear to be off in the pics because of the bad angle of the camera |
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I tried to set the steering wheel straight but that proved futile as the wheel was centered with the power steering box on and it did not put the Pitman arm at the 12 o'clock position
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so I went with the Pitman arm being vertical in the 12:00 o'clock position, another way of looking at it is it was parallel with the steering column, broom stick as I call it
well this put my front wheels all wonkey, check it out the driver side was way toed out and the passenger side too toed in they stuck out way more than what they appear in the pics, actually they were so out of adjustment that they were hitting the string on both sides and had to be turned in a few turns just to be in the ball park but this I thought could explain that turnability difference to the left vs to the right... lets have at it |
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ok fellas, efficient this process is not, but it is not meant to be, it is done on the cheap and gits you in the ball park
so after taking some measurements with my eyecrometer and having loosened the tie rod sleeves I had to lift the truck to make some adjustments I took my time and it took FIVE ups and downs to git it dialed in, but I did that on purpose so that I could understand what is going on, checking my 1" rear rim string settings in between each adjustment, P.I.A. but learned something so First Adjustment was one turn in on the driver side and one turn out on the passenger side then Second Adjustment was one turn in on the driver side and one turn out on the passenger side rinse, lather, repeat I think after the Third Adjustment the driver side gave me a 1/8th toe in, PERFECT it took two more adjustments on the passenger side as I think I went passed the sweet spot, but a few half turns in got me to a 1/8th toe in on that side too - also PERFECT |
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Keep in mind that the front and rear track width are not necessarily the SAME. This will give you a false toe reading.
When adjusting toe, make sure you know which way to turn it. It's easy to add toe IN when you meant toe OUT. The adjusters may not need to be turned the same direction left to right. When adjusting toe, make sure you keep centering the steering wheel, or have some lackey in there holding it still for you. Adjusting toe sometimes moves the wheel. |
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