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and here is the Holley 12-834 fuel pump installed
PROs: it fits CONs: it's cheap, its too shinny, it feels flimzy, its expensive I would not recommend this product to anyone |
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Fuel Pump Replacement Top Tip (F.P.R.T.T.)
use the magnet on a stick to slide the fuel pump push rod back up, or at least get that oily sucker up high enuff to get your finger under it (I know guys recommend using a longer bolt in that side hole to hold it up, but what if you aint got the clearance to get to that bolt, or you forgot and it dropped already, etc.) use the hacksaw blade to hold it up while you slide the new fuel pump lever under it, the blade is thin enuff and bendy enuff to git the job done hugs |
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Looks like the short sighted pencil pushing bean counters are working on murdering Holley the same way they murdered Carter. "Here's to the pencil pushers... may they all get lead poisoning."--Eddie Valiant |
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So did replacing the fuel pump get rid of the engine ticking sound?
NO |
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I read on these forums that some guys have tried MARVEL Mystery Oil additive and that eliminated their ticking sounds, so The Greg tried it, but to no surprise this snake oil also let him down, and the ticking sound remained
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some forum members suggested that the noise could be coming from the Primitive Crancase Ventilation valve, PCV, so I removed it temporarily and the ticking sound remained, so that can't be it
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The Greg remembered that one time when he was lazy he took his beloved '97 Chevy Tahoe to Jiffy Lube for a quick oil change, and those knuckleheads used the wrong oil weight and his valves chatter was more annoying than Gregory Hines tap dancing until he quenched his rigs thirst with the proper and Vortec friendly SAE 5W-30 nectar
so since O'Really was having an oil special, 5 quarts plus oil filter for $18 bucks, he went out and got some Note: The MicroGuard oil filter was Made in U.S.A. and did that eliminate the engine ticking sound? NO |
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that's it, that does it, then it was time to Conquer by Division
So, The Greg believing the ticking sound was a comin' from the passenger side, he did the following. 1. Unplugged the #8 spark plug wire from the distributor - the noise was there, so plugged it back in 2. Unplugged the #6 spark plug wire from the distributor - the noise was there, so plugged it back in 3. Unplugged the #4 spark plug wire from the distributor - THE NOISE WAS GONE - then plugged it back in and the noise came back 4. Unplugged the #2 spark plug wire from the distributor - the noise was there, so plugged it back in FYI I turned the truck off each time I manipulated the spark plug leads, remember safety third!!! |
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so I removed the passenger side valve cover and checked the #4 Intake and Exhaust rockers for wiggability, there was no extra play there
Next, I removed the Intake rocker completely to inspect it and removed the push rod and rolled it on a flat surface to ensure it was straight and not bent, and they both appeared to be good I ran the truck without them but the loose lifter now was tapping so I could not really isolate the ticking sound I put the Intake pushrod and rocker back in and removed the Exhaust ones and inspected them as well, they also looked good, and running the engine without this one also did not help me determine where the sound was coming from removing both rockers forced me to re adjust them which is what I wanted to do, I wanted to start from scratch with these two, and so I did I put #1 on TDC and adjusted the #4 Exhaust valve, than I put #6 on TDC and adjusted the #4 Intake valve and did that eliminate the engine ticking sound? NO |
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Oh no.
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No - pulling the plug wire off, and the sound goes away, is usually a piston problem.
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so then it was time for some Deductive Reasoning
1. the noise was there before I rebuilt the Top End 2. after replacing the Cylinder Heads, Cam, Lifters, Push Rods, Timing Set, and Water Pump the noise was still there 3. there is no play in the #4 intake or exhaust valves so it can't be a collapsed lifter so I think it's a worn con rod |
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Hmmmm, who needs 8 cylinders anyway... Ladies and Gentlemen I give you the [ahem] Fuel Efficient V7 runs quieter too than a regular V8 |
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Yeah, it's in the bottom-end.
Simplest, maybe cheapest, and most complete (i.e. not leaving other problems for later issues) is to get the 350/260 crate engine and transplant your top-end onto it. New pistons, rings, rods, bearings, 100% clean passages, all in one package. Drop the Vortec top end on it, swap the cam, and you're done. $1500 and free shipping from either JEGS or Summit. |
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drop your pan and slowly back away
here we are looking at #4 checked all the con rods and they all shift a hair side to side uniformally 1 - 8 |
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and here's what the #4 connection rod bearing looks like
Note: it still has the divits on it so it has not spun, which is the best I can say for it so question is do I buy a stock replacement or a .002 over? and yes I am only replacing one bearing (I never said I am going to be proud of this "repair") |
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Zinc additive is $5 per oil change. Not a biggie. On the connecting rod bearing, yeah, I would go a couple thousandths over. |
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They make .001 bearings as well as .002. See if your local parts store has some plastigauge so you can check things out, I would rather be a tad loose than too tight.
The bearings do not appear to be worn much. When you see copper, they are worn. |
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went ahead and bought just a standard size bearing, for like $4.00 bucks
man where will I get my bearings when Trump builds that wall (kidding folks, don't get all political on me, let's just make this truck great again!) |
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