Re: Restoring Rusty
 

You asked about that tan/white brake wire a few posts up. I was tracing that one out myself recently. Obviously, the brake light is fed with an ignition hot, then the ground splits and goes three ways.

#1, the brake proportioning valve on the front crossmember. This grounds out the light(thus illuminating it) if the brake pressure is wildly different between the front and back brakes.

#2, the parking brake pedal. This grounds and illuminates the light if the parking brake is applied.

#3, The light also grounds out in the crank position of the key switch(I think I'm right on this). This way, you can see if the light is working while starting the vehicle. If the light does not illuminate, the bulb or wiring is blown. Our Virginia state inspection is supposed to(not saying they do) check for the presence/absence of that light. They want to see it illuminate during startup, but go out immediately after. Other states may be similar.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

thank you I appreciate the feedback, however I wonder if all that is true for the 1974 year or did it evolve into it later on, maybe someone with a '73 or '75 can chime in, what year is yours? sorry I don't see signature blocks as some are too cray cray

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

I was working with a '87 harness and a relatively universal wiring diagram. Everything seemed to match up. You're right that some stuff might not apply to the earlier trucks.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

1 & 2 are correct for all squarebodies. The combination valve switch and e-brake pedal can illuminate the BRAKE lamp.

# 3 is called a bulb check. It happens when the ignition is switched on. Not sure if all trucks had it. 73 - 75 were pretty simple. They might not.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

The way I read the diagram, it sure looked like it was during cranking only.

If what you say is true, is there some sort of mechanical wizardry going on in there to ground that bulb during the initial "ignition on" but not while running? How?

Re: Restoring Rusty - Oil Leaks, Profanity, and Cold Pavement.
 

So what have me and Rusty been up to lately?

Well it's more of the same still trying to eliminate the Pavement Lubrication System (PLS), aka the massive oil leak, ha ha.

Ever since I put on the Edelbrock E-Street aluminum cylinder heads (back in May I recon) I have been having a hewk of a time stopping the silly oil leaks from the back of the valve covers.

I have now been through, count 'em three different sets of valve covers.

1. The stock OEM 1974 valve covers.
2. The brand new black Summit brand tall valve covers.
3. The chrome MOROSO used valve covers.

seems like the only type I haven't tried is some cast aluminum ones. I can't believe this is so difficult.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

I have also tried three different types of valve cover gaskets:

1. Fel-Pro VS12869 0.160 in. thin cork ones from O'Reilly's - hey that's all they had
2. Semi thick black hard rubber junk.
3. Fel-Pro VS12869AC very nice 0.224 in. thick ones from NAPA

the thin cork ones were not tall enough to allow for the Summit or Moroso valve covers to sit on top of the valve covers without hitting metal on metal (Pontiac Mike suggested I double them up and glue em together, I haven't tried that yet)

the black hard rubber ones were beyond horrible, here is one that just cracked at the bolt hole areas, yes I may have over tightened them in a desperate attempt to stop the oil leaks

(I will update this post with more pics of the valve cover gaskets and their part numbers next/soon)

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

I had some Trans-Dapt valve covers once on Pro-Topline heads. Those covers required around 5/16"-3/8" gasket thickness to prevent leaks. This was due to the stamped gasket surfaces being too narrow and "off" by around 1/8". Great product, huh? Ended up going with a pair of cast aluminum covers, and was able to use a single gasket. BTW, I like the Fel-Pro gaskets with cork-rubber material bonded to both sides of a metal core.

I also had a fit issue with one of their alternator brackets where the holes were off by 1/4" or so. The Chinese QA standard must be +/- 1/4". I remember back when Trans-Dapt stuff was made in the USA and actually fit. Sad state of affairs these days. :(

On a final note, I have found the GM-licensed ProForm valve covers to fit like gloves. Had some chrome ones for over 10 years on a truck that sat outside, and never had any signs of rust trying to peek through. The metal is also heavier gauge than the cheapies. Made in Taiwan, as I recall. That's light years better than made in China, and applies to just any aftermarket parts -- metal panels, electrical switches, bumpers, etc.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

I've used the Fel Pro 'VS 12869 T' gaskets w/success on both sheet metal & alum v.covers.
These are the rubber-bonded gaskets w/the no-crush sleeve for the retaining fasteners.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

:haha:

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

thanks bud, I just looked those up on Summit, "Embossed Shim" is the language they use for the no crush sleeves I recon, anyway I have not had much luck with rubber gaskets so I wonder if they make a cork equivalent? that I would try

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Score! they wanted $15 bucks but I offered $20 and stood my ground, ha ha

BRODIX cast aluminum valve covers

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

... 7 minutes later I applied a liberal coat of elbow grease with my wireless handrolics

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

... next I opened up the oblong hole to a 1" round one for the valve cover breather with my amazingly awesome harbor freight gold plated step drill bit, it is actually surprisingly amazeballz

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

i bolted these up with the Vortec center hole long valve cover bolts and a few extra washers etc.

first impression: I really dig the higher up bolt heads, it allows me to zip tie my spark plug wires to them up higher for a much tightier look

of course the real test will be to see if they leak

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Oh yeah, almost forgot, and this is how he thanks me!!!

as my Northmen buddy call's it: It's A Milk Shake Machine! and that's after only like a couple weeks, horrible I tell yeah, horrible - and yes I am running a PCV and a breather, to no avail.

that's it, this is the last stone that stubbed the camels toe, it's ENGINE SWAP TIME !!!

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Engine swap?!

PLOT TWIST!!

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

LOL, Spoiler Alert! Think 1999 Suburban L31 as the donor, roller cam, one piece rear main seal, electric fuel pump but no Vortec heads this time (that ship has sailed) serpent 10 foot long single twisty accessory belt... Project Code Name: Nasty Rusty!

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Kewl! :metal: Looking forward to more progress.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Not a truck, but certainly applicable here. :)

https://static.summitracing.com/glob....jpg?rep=False

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

just wanted to give you a quick winter update, Rusty and I ain't much for doin' now days during the winter time, but wanted to show you what happens to a man's garage moments after the wife discovers Overstock.com, ha ha

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Gregski-
Took almost a month for me to get through this thread. Must say... it's been interesting to say the least. I've been through many of the items you've experienced and I have to commend you on your sticktoitness. it"s greater than mine. like a scab you can't leave alone, I'm eagerly awaiting your next update.

Keep on keeping on...
-Tony

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

thank you Tony for the feedback it keeps me motivated

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

so it's been a while since I last updated this thread or better yet done something to the truck, ha ha, well you know The Greg does not like Winter Projects and I must admit I went into hibernation for a while on the account of the Nor Cal weather dropping to below 70*, treacherous I tell ya

but on the account of it officially being Spring, lets git to it

well what do we have here, a brand spankin' new inner box for gloves?

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

and here's why we bought a brand new one instead of MacGeyvering the old one with a good ol' piano hinge

as you can see the sides were perished as well