Re: Restoring Rusty
 

like I said I already wrapped the wiper switch wires in this old 3/8ths conduit, after I did it I ordered some 1/4" on eBay and someday will redo it proper

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

I plan on doing the same for this High / Low beam headlight switch, gosh I hate non home runs, ie wires that Y into other wires of different lengths and sometimes even different colors

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

OK, so we divorced the Light Blue (left blinker) Dark Blue (right blinker) Green (high beam) and Brown with Black Stripe (brake) wires from the cluster plug and snipped off the OE ends off of them and crimped on some Female spade or blade connectors/terminals, these will slide directly on our four warning lights

easy peasy

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

and here is the Green (high beam) warning light wire getting decapitated and re terminated

this will be the blue warning light

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

the Brown with Black Stripe (brake) wire is a two headed snake, I honestly don't recall where both ends plugged into, maybe somebody can learn me

also this is one of them (RED) warning lights that I think only comes on when you're going off a cliff, I don't think it comes on upon starting of the vehicle every morning (I think I'm thinkin' of the Alternator red light there) again correct me if I'm wrong

anywho, I snipped both OE ends off and slapped on a blade female recepticle, this will go to the red warning light

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

and here they are from left to right: brake, right turn, high beam, left turn signal

I also isolated this strand

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

lastly we have the four new wires for our digital gauges, fuel, oil, water, and Tach, these are the mates of those four males we meet earlier

these also are zipped tied together separately, ha ha

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

enuff already can we see the finished product Pah Leaze

high RPM? the choke was on, and it's January! ha ha

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

so how are the digital gauges? asked no one, lol

well last night I packaged up the broken brand new speedo and shipped it back to Intellitronix, let me just say that their support is awesome, they said that was unacceptable and wanted to make it right, right away, as soon as I provide them with a tracking number of my package they will ship me a brand new unit

and then this morning I was going to drive the truck for the first time since installing them, and this happened to the 4 day's old digital Tach!

(if you can't tell the plastic piece slid down behind the front lens and is blocking the digital display)

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

just a random update, on the account of doing all this wiring I picked up these GB Garner Bender 8" Crimping Pliers part no. GS-388 for $15 bucks at ACE Hardware. Now I won't have to swap attachments on my blue ratchet crimper, I can use that one for proper un-insulated terminals, and this new one for insulated ones

seem to work great, I like em, here is an example of 22-18 gauge terminals being crimped

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

does the 16-14 gauge ones nicely as well

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Your crimps will open up over time.
The tool is good enough to produce serviceable crimps. Your process needs improvement.
You want the indent in the tool jaws to bear on the solid portion of the connector opposite the split so that it deforms the solid portion of the terminal up against the wire strands and the split section instead of forcing the split open.
The lightweight terminals sold by the Borg aren't as durable as the peices you can get from Panduit etc. The alloy isn't as heavy as the industrial brands and it doesn't hold the crimped shape over time.
Voice of experience here.

I've always intended to do a writeup on how to properly crimp automotive terminals. Time time time time...

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

thank yo for that tip, I will definitely start doing it that way, and yes this forum would benefit from a Cimpin' 101 Writeup, please and thank you

G

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

The non-insulated ring terminals with no split are the ones I really like to use on field repairs.
I can add a piece of adhesive lined (sometimes called Marine) heatshrink that extends over the entire crimp barrel and up the wire jacket about 1" to act as a strain relief. The result is very neat and clean and it lasts a very long time.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Prior to your feedback I bought some non-insulated ring terminals online from MOUSER Electronics in Mansfield, TX. Are you familiar with this vendor?

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Mouser is one of my goto suppliers along with Digikey and Newark (If I'm desperate enough to pay Newark prices).
Good supplier for discrete through hole and surface mount parts.
Mouser has a fairly comprehensive supply of Delphi (now APTIV) connectors and terminals. Metripack, Weatherpak, Packard, GT series, as well as Deutsch (and the AMP knockoffs), Tyco Quadlok, ... They actually stock both halves of the odd Delphi Metripack multi-terminal-size disconnect plug that's stuffed behind the Impala RH kick panel that were melted from the defroster wire overheating on my 09 SS.

You can find a fair amount of ring terminals and disconnects and the like at McMaster Carr. Sacramento and the bay area are usually one day ground shipping if you order in the AM because McMaster is only 5 hours away in the LA area. My company is doing a Transit ITS project in Sacramento.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Oh my god Hatzie you so remind me of that epic scene with Shoeshine Johnny from the always hilarious TV Series: Police Squad! You may be old enough to remember it.

I will paraphrase it for you.

Me: What's the word on the street about terminals Hatzie?

Hatzie: I don't know I hear a lot of things about connectors pick a topic.

Me: You know anything about the un-insulated terminals at the Mouser facility?

Hatzie: Good supplier for discrete through hole and surface mount parts. Mouser has a fairly comprehensive supply of Delphi (now APTIV) connectors and terminals. Metripack, Weatherpak, Packard, GT series, as well as Deutsch (and the AMP knockoffs), Tyco Quadlok, ... They actually stock both halves of the odd Delphi Metripack multi-terminal-size disconnect plug that's stuffed behind the Impala RH kick panel that were melted from the defroster wire overheating on my 09 SS.

LOL just had me rollin!!!

Shoeshine Johnny

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Good stuff right there.


Thanks for the insight Hatzie. I too have been doing it wrong for a long time.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

so my warranty repaired/replaced digital gauges (speedo & tach) arrived today from Intellitronix and I think it is worthy to share because their Customer Support and Tech Support has been amazeballz, they even sent me an Oil Temp gauge for FREE

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

You asked about that tan/white brake wire a few posts up. I was tracing that one out myself recently. Obviously, the brake light is fed with an ignition hot, then the ground splits and goes three ways.

#1, the brake proportioning valve on the front crossmember. This grounds out the light(thus illuminating it) if the brake pressure is wildly different between the front and back brakes.

#2, the parking brake pedal. This grounds and illuminates the light if the parking brake is applied.

#3, The light also grounds out in the crank position of the key switch(I think I'm right on this). This way, you can see if the light is working while starting the vehicle. If the light does not illuminate, the bulb or wiring is blown. Our Virginia state inspection is supposed to(not saying they do) check for the presence/absence of that light. They want to see it illuminate during startup, but go out immediately after. Other states may be similar.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

thank you I appreciate the feedback, however I wonder if all that is true for the 1974 year or did it evolve into it later on, maybe someone with a '73 or '75 can chime in, what year is yours? sorry I don't see signature blocks as some are too cray cray

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

I was working with a '87 harness and a relatively universal wiring diagram. Everything seemed to match up. You're right that some stuff might not apply to the earlier trucks.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

1 & 2 are correct for all squarebodies. The combination valve switch and e-brake pedal can illuminate the BRAKE lamp.

# 3 is called a bulb check. It happens when the ignition is switched on. Not sure if all trucks had it. 73 - 75 were pretty simple. They might not.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

The way I read the diagram, it sure looked like it was during cranking only.

If what you say is true, is there some sort of mechanical wizardry going on in there to ground that bulb during the initial "ignition on" but not while running? How?

Re: Restoring Rusty - Oil Leaks, Profanity, and Cold Pavement.
 

So what have me and Rusty been up to lately?

Well it's more of the same still trying to eliminate the Pavement Lubrication System (PLS), aka the massive oil leak, ha ha.

Ever since I put on the Edelbrock E-Street aluminum cylinder heads (back in May I recon) I have been having a hewk of a time stopping the silly oil leaks from the back of the valve covers.

I have now been through, count 'em three different sets of valve covers.

1. The stock OEM 1974 valve covers.
2. The brand new black Summit brand tall valve covers.
3. The chrome MOROSO used valve covers.

seems like the only type I haven't tried is some cast aluminum ones. I can't believe this is so difficult.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

I have also tried three different types of valve cover gaskets:

1. Fel-Pro VS12869 0.160 in. thin cork ones from O'Reilly's - hey that's all they had
2. Semi thick black hard rubber junk.
3. Fel-Pro VS12869AC very nice 0.224 in. thick ones from NAPA

the thin cork ones were not tall enough to allow for the Summit or Moroso valve covers to sit on top of the valve covers without hitting metal on metal (Pontiac Mike suggested I double them up and glue em together, I haven't tried that yet)

the black hard rubber ones were beyond horrible, here is one that just cracked at the bolt hole areas, yes I may have over tightened them in a desperate attempt to stop the oil leaks

(I will update this post with more pics of the valve cover gaskets and their part numbers next/soon)

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

I had some Trans-Dapt valve covers once on Pro-Topline heads. Those covers required around 5/16"-3/8" gasket thickness to prevent leaks. This was due to the stamped gasket surfaces being too narrow and "off" by around 1/8". Great product, huh? Ended up going with a pair of cast aluminum covers, and was able to use a single gasket. BTW, I like the Fel-Pro gaskets with cork-rubber material bonded to both sides of a metal core.

I also had a fit issue with one of their alternator brackets where the holes were off by 1/4" or so. The Chinese QA standard must be +/- 1/4". I remember back when Trans-Dapt stuff was made in the USA and actually fit. Sad state of affairs these days. :(

On a final note, I have found the GM-licensed ProForm valve covers to fit like gloves. Had some chrome ones for over 10 years on a truck that sat outside, and never had any signs of rust trying to peek through. The metal is also heavier gauge than the cheapies. Made in Taiwan, as I recall. That's light years better than made in China, and applies to just any aftermarket parts -- metal panels, electrical switches, bumpers, etc.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

I've used the Fel Pro 'VS 12869 T' gaskets w/success on both sheet metal & alum v.covers.
These are the rubber-bonded gaskets w/the no-crush sleeve for the retaining fasteners.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

:haha:

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

thanks bud, I just looked those up on Summit, "Embossed Shim" is the language they use for the no crush sleeves I recon, anyway I have not had much luck with rubber gaskets so I wonder if they make a cork equivalent? that I would try

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Score! they wanted $15 bucks but I offered $20 and stood my ground, ha ha

BRODIX cast aluminum valve covers

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

... 7 minutes later I applied a liberal coat of elbow grease with my wireless handrolics

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

... next I opened up the oblong hole to a 1" round one for the valve cover breather with my amazingly awesome harbor freight gold plated step drill bit, it is actually surprisingly amazeballz

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

i bolted these up with the Vortec center hole long valve cover bolts and a few extra washers etc.

first impression: I really dig the higher up bolt heads, it allows me to zip tie my spark plug wires to them up higher for a much tightier look

of course the real test will be to see if they leak

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Oh yeah, almost forgot, and this is how he thanks me!!!

as my Northmen buddy call's it: It's A Milk Shake Machine! and that's after only like a couple weeks, horrible I tell yeah, horrible - and yes I am running a PCV and a breather, to no avail.

that's it, this is the last stone that stubbed the camels toe, it's ENGINE SWAP TIME !!!

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Engine swap?!

PLOT TWIST!!

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

LOL, Spoiler Alert! Think 1999 Suburban L31 as the donor, roller cam, one piece rear main seal, electric fuel pump but no Vortec heads this time (that ship has sailed) serpent 10 foot long single twisty accessory belt... Project Code Name: Nasty Rusty!

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Kewl! :metal: Looking forward to more progress.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Not a truck, but certainly applicable here. :)

https://static.summitracing.com/glob....jpg?rep=False