Re: Restoring Rusty
 

What? Blasphemy! good thing that thing folds up, ha ha - no seriously super nice, I think my USB port [thank you Mopar Seth for getting it for me] has been laying in my toolbox for 4 years now and the closest it came to getting installed was me twisting some alligator clips to it once and taking it camping with us then cracking the hood open slightly on the truck and hooking it up directly to the battery and giving all the kids an iPhone charging kiosk if they brought me a beer out of the cooler, so I wouldn't have to git up

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Yeah, it was fun rowing through the gears on that Muncie just like when I was a kid. Better yet was the price: free + the cost of an overhaul kit in exchange for me prepping the seller's block at a buddy's machine shop.

I actually converted the car from a perfectly good TH350 that some PO had installed many years before. I probably saved more than 100 lb including the weight of the trans, T/C, cooler, and fluid. Sold the trans, related parts, and B&M shifter for around $250 as I recall, which paid for a used bell housing and flywheel, clutch pedal kit, and new pressure plate and disc. So it was pretty close to a net zero$$ conversion. Wish I had more of those those projects.:(

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

had a little time to show Rusty some love today, been meaning to install some loop hooks on the bed ever since I took off the rusty OG ones which were mounted on the outside (very practical not very asthetical) and we're all about form over function at Damage Inc. Garage

I tried to get these 3/8ths hooks on Amazon but finally got 'em at ACE Hardware - I think they was like .97 cents a piece

so off with the two remaining old ones and on with the new six pack

there were six holes already drilled on top of the bed rails so I just had to enlarge them slightly and I tapped them, I figure I would screw these hooks in from the bottom, decapitate the shafts that stick out, and welderize them to make the new owners life a little bit more exciting if he ever considers removing them, ha ha

I doubled up on the nuts to make them hang a bit lower below the side lip

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

as I was wire wheeling the zinctoniam off of the tip of the threads I considered painting them black, hewk powder coating even, but then I pushed those silly ambitious thoughts right out of my head ~ Porgress Not Perfection is the new black!

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

couple bird poops later, and the hooks were in

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

and with the hooks installed it was time to go fetch some lumber for our next project... Truck Doing Truck Things!

... and the hooks worked great! no problems to report, ha ha

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Two sweet projects at one time. Now I know there are no excuses.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

"and welderize them to make the new owners life a little bit more exciting if he ever considers removing them, ha ha"

So am i reading this right? Rusty is looking for a new home?

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Thanks for asking Jay, unfortunately that was the plan before the pandemic, I just need to install the Autometer gauges in it (a $1,000 value for sure) and have the original bench seat with new foam reupholstered professionally (sowing is on the short list of things I don't do) it breaks my heart, but I somehow own three trucks now Rusty '74, Dusty, '71, and Busty a '54 so I'm spread way too thin and I wish I had the space aka the property to keep them all, but Dusty has been tucked away at my mamas house for about a year and that aint fair to her. 100% of the proceeds from the sale will go to buy my kids a car they can share, one is 18 the other 15 soon to be 16.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

As for your bench seat, you wouldn't have to sew anything and still do it yourself. You've done everything else, surely buying a premade cover and using hogring plyers isn't too intimidating :) Might have to replace some broken springs and repair or replace some foam, but its all available out there.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Thanks Rick, I am not a big fan of pleather, and prefer cloth, strange I know, so I don't know if there are any cloth seat covers, and I've done the bucket seats on my '71 myself and no thank you, it's like replacing your own windshield or tires, I leave that to the pros, ha ha, I appreciate you trying to help.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

I wish I would of thought to install those eyelets like that on mine !!!

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

thanks, it's Gangstah!

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

I'd ask TKCR about it and read her bench seat thread.
This is post 143 of that thread.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...&postcount=143
The second seat in that bunch would go well with your green interior.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

I swear I'm gonna have to call you Radar! Well done mate, you always come through.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1587443247

Heavy load ya got there!

I did something similar with my last truck, but installed 3/8" stainless eye bolts in each corner of the bed floor, reinforced by a thick flat washer on the bottom of the bed.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

My mom always said that if I was too quiet, I was up to no good.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

OMG... I'm so busted! you have no idea what I have brewing (I will PM you) plus it's 4:00 am and I am already up planning

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

What tangled webs we weave...

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

not funny !!!

this one sprung a pin hole leak right above the water line by the inlet on the driver side, I could hear it hissing under pressure when I tried to pump it up with a test pump (a total must have tool) but could not see any moisture coming out nor could I build up any PSI, even tried the Windex look for bubbles trick, so I got mad, yanked it out and tested it in my organic hydro radiator testing facility - and we saw tiny little bubbles, just enough to cause a small leak that would cause me to overheat once every two weeks or so (most of the time in the In N Out drive through, ha ha)

3rd brand new radiator in six years !

November 3rd 2016 installed Northern aluminum one off of AMAZON for $271, post #4983

December 16th, 2017 (only one year later) bought a Chinese plastic one called Rad Cool for $114 from a local mom and pop radiator shop, post #5333

and now this one from NAPA for $125

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Hope it works I have to go to NAPA for a new one. I bought one for my 89 jeep 5yrs now maybe longer from NAPA and still good

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Ditto, one thing I noticed is that NAPA's parts aint what they used to be, it seems every retailer is under some self imposed mandate to built it cheaper and faster, and you know what they say: “Fast, Cheap or Good? Pick Two.”

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Guess I've been lucky. Around 5-6 years ago, I bought a "Murray" radiator that looks like yours from O'Reilly Auto Parts for around $130. Mine is the small one (17" x 28-1/4" x 1-1/4"), but it keeps my 355 below 190 deg even on very hot days. Looks to be the same thing as a "Spectra Premium" at Rock Auto for $104 + shipping.

Haven't had any issues with mine, but I bought it locally for the lifetime warranty if it does fail.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Sounds like it, smart man!

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

... and order in the Universe has been restored

the PCM now reads 192° F relying on the sending unit at the front of the driver cylinder head, aka the stock location

and my aftermarked Intelitronix digital gauge reads 190° F relying on the sending unit in the back of the passenger cylinder head, as a backup location

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Very clever (and true) picture. I bounced around on the radiator issue for a couple of weeks looking for one for my '56. I spent a few more $$ and went with an American made (Griffin) mostly because we plan on using this car for the HRPT in the near future. OK, a bunch more $$. ;)

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

I ran a used Griffin in a 55 Chevy car for more than 10 years. Not sure how long it had been used by the previous owner. It never gave me any problems, even down here in the Texas heat. However, you may hear some people bad-mouth it because epoxy is used in the construction.

Found this on Griffin's website:

At Griffin, epoxy is a secondary process applied to some radiators to increase durability. All Griffin Radiators are vacuum brazed with a magnesium based cladding. The purpose of the epoxy is to relieve the shear stress on the tube-to-header braze joint to ensure a long leak free life for radiators used in extreme conditions. The common misconception is that epoxy is used to “glue” radiators together. Some manufacturer's may do this, but Griffin does not. And remember, we make so many different types, not all use epoxy.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Rusty is getting on my nerves!

I just done did the front brakes three months ago in February (for the first time on this truck ever) and the driver side is running really hot all of a sudden! 216°F

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

as opposed to the passenger side, which is a cool 130° F

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Wheel bearings/races? I would have said the pads are not retracting enough, but I've never experienced that, and I assume it would make noise. But I've been known to be wrong, like that time I thought I was mistaken.:)

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Did you change the hoses on the front wheels. I had one that the hose would collapse right after I did a caliper and brake change.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Thanks, I hope it's not the bearings, I am still not good on determining how much to tighten those darn things with the castle nut and cotter pin and all, so I hope it's a jammed pad. fingers crossed

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Got the info below off the Interweb. And you might want to start by over-tightening while spinning the wheel to make sure everything is seated.

The following procedure is one method for adjusting the end play in a wheel bearing set.

Tighten the adjusting nut while turning the rotor. When the effort to turn the rotor increases, a preload is placed on bearing assembly and all raceway surfaces are in contact, providing no end play. Back off the nut one flat to allow insertion of the cotter key. The end play can be checked with a dial indicator. Mount the indicator with a magnetic or mechanical base as close to the center of the hub as possible. The indicator tip is set on a smooth surface at the end of the spindle. Push the rotor back and set the indicator to zero. Then pull the rotor or drum out and read the dial indicator.

Allow 0.004-inch (0.100 mm) ± 0.003-inch (0.076 mm) of end play, then lock the nut with a new cotter pin. Whether you are checking a conventional wheel bearing or hub bearing, the best tool for checking adjustment is a dial indicator. Many four-wheel-drive vehicles and most trucks with a load rating of one ton and higher use a full floating axle. The axle has a bearing set, spindle and hub. The same adjustment procedure can be used for these applications.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Awesome, Mike this is so great and helpful, thank you so much.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

If the hoses are originals, that would be my bet. Reasoning being if you did the brake-work of both sides the same & are only having an issue on one side, it would be reasonable to assume you did it right unless you were questioning yourself about the technical aspect @ that time.

I would inspect the caliper pins as well since these can get 'sticky' (thus not allowing the caliper to properly float). My money would be on the hoses though.

It sucks.... When this happened to me & because @ the >200° temps, I had to replace the wheel bearings again to feel everything was no longer suspect.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

I did not Bill, sorry I meant to answer your post right away but forgot.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

did a bit of troubleshooting of the brakes today, let me walk you through what I did and my thinking process

since one side (passenger) appears to be fine we have something to compare the bad side (driver) to

so I lifted the front end with the wheels still on off the ground
(secured by jackstands behind the front wheels, not visible in the pics) and:

1. simply spun each wheel by hand to see if one wheel had more drag than the other - not really

2. I did the hands on 9:00 AM and 3:00 PM wiggle the wheel back and forth to see if there's excessive play - not really

3. I did the hands on 12:00 AM and 6:00 PM wiggle the wheel back and forth to see if there's excessive play - not really

4. I inspected the pads for even wear and how much meat they still had on them, and all four showed equal wear and plenty of meat, look brand new(ish) as they should

5. I tried to spin the rotors by hand and the driver side seems a bit harder to spin, but both sides had some drag that they wouldn't just spin freely

6. with a large flat screw driver I gently pushed the piston back into the caliper on each side and spun the rotors by hand, with the pistons retracted both spun easily the same, no strange noises

7. had the wife start the truck and apply the brakes, I watched the piston emerge ever so slightly but enough to stop the rotors, then I would manually push it back with the screw driver and have her do it again

8. I inspected the rubber hoses

9. we bled the front brakes, 10 pumps and hold it, three times

10. I priced some brand new calipers on AutoZone and NAPA they are cheap $22 bucks a piece

so I will take the truck for a test drive tomorrow and check the external wheel temps again, maybe miraculously the driver side wiggled itself loose, if not it's new caliper and rubber hose time

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

I hate this, stay tuned next week when we will find out the mystery. LOL

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Gregski -- What was the symptom that caused you to measure the temperatures?

Also, did you physically look at inner and outer wheel bearings and races?

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

1. truck just not coasting true as straight as a 45 year old aerodynamic brick normally does, ha ha

2. very slight smell of something burning (I thought it was a wire conduit gently touching the exhaust manifold at first)

this may sound stupid, but I sorta developed The Truck Whisper, not bragging just I can honestly feel when something aint right, I may not always know what is wrong, but something just bugs me and I have to investigate, I'm sure why you all drive your trucks you develop the same thing over time

Not after my brake job, but before yes and they were fine. I actually installed the wheel bearings carefully in a process similar to the one described above, where I tightened the castle nut then loosened it to find the hole for the cotter pin.