Re: Restoring Rusty
You're making progress. A lot of it really.
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What product did you use to paint that blower unit? That is the perfect underhood finish, not too glossy, not too flat, just right.
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Re: Restoring Rusty - Passenger Inner Fender Done
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Finally some pics of the finished passenger side of the engine bay.
Blower assembly, painted - done Inner Fender, replaced/painted - done Battery Tray, replaced/painted - done Frame Rail, painted - done What do you think of the body color instead of black on the inner fender? I only painted the lid of the air cleaner housing because I am going to replace it with the Retro one from LMC Truck next month. |
Re: Restoring Rusty
I don't know if you have installed the oil pan yet but, the position of the pickup screen to pan needs to be 1/4"-3/8". I like to tack the screen to the pump as I have seen them fall off.
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Awesome thread Greg,really entertaining and you do good work. Lots of good info for us rookies....keep it up.
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Re: Restoring Rusty - You Got Mail
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I just bought the Vortec head version of that manifold for my 355 that's under construction, and will be using a 80457SA or 80458SA carb. (The latter has center-hung float bowls and dual fuel inlets on the passenger side). |
Re: Restoring Rusty - You Got Mail
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Re: Restoring Rusty
Comp Cams 12-235-2 will give you 290hp and 410lbft from a stock 350 with stock 76cc heads, as long as you put a dual plane manifold and long-tube headers on it.
If you're going with new heads like the Dart aluminum heads, it's pretty easy to get 400hp and 430lbft from a stock 350, using Comp Cams 12-238-2. Basically, 300hp is a pretty low goal for new heads. Or another way to say it, you can get 300hp without spending big bucks on heads. Download Camquest6 and play around with it. Just google camquest6. |
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I personally went with the 12-300-4, which is 285hp and 420lbft, because I wanted even more grunt in the bottom. Performance above 3000-3500 rpm isn't a prime consideration for me in a street machine.
Here is the dyno simulator run for the 12-235-2. The left side gives you all the parameters for the stock 350 you need to set. Then you can try all the cams you want. http://users.rcn.com/weyand/smalls/C...onStock350.jpg |
Re: Restoring Rusty - Oiled The Hood Hinges
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oiled the hood hinges with some White Lithium grease, and my god what a difference I can open and close the hood with two fingers ~ keep 'em lubricated boys!
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Re: Restoring Rusty - Hedman Hedders
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scored some used but in good nick Hedman Hedders (Made in USA - warms the heart seein' that don't it) no idea what they came off, for $75 bucks on a handshake agreement that I pay only if they fit my truck, otherwise just return them
they measure 1 5/8" and 3" at the collectors |
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Nice score. Have a set on my '76 or atleast in my shed....
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Love the inner fenders.
I know what you mean on the hood hinges too. Might not last very long though. Mine lasted about 2 months with white lithium, so I went with heavy axle grease and it's been a year and still great. |
Re: Restoring Rusty
Yeah the shed is loud....lol.
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Re: Restoring Rusty
Paint and other items starting to ding your wallet? If you have an Advance Auto Parts near you, they always have coupon codes available for 30-40% off when you order online and go pickup at the store.
Yesterday, I got 3 ton jack stands, two rust removal wire brush kits, and two cans of primer for $30. Ordered from home and went and picked it up immediately. That $7 can of paint drops to $4.20. http://promocodesforyou.com/index.ph...g9YaAnfg8P8HAQ |
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I actually make a point to buy at least $20 bucks each time (when I'm short I just throw in a quart of oil, you always need some oil, LOL) and since I have another AutoZone by my work, I walk there at lunch time so it all works out. Hey I'm a man on a budget so every bit helps. |
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Absolutely right. I use my Autozone card to help me get alittle bit extra, lol.
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DANG great work, that's a LOT of manual labor going on there. Hours that I don't have with 4 kids and a testy wife. I'll have to get down your way. Im up north just before Marysville.
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Re: Restoring Rusty - Another Freeze Plug Replacement
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another day another freeze plug replacement, I know once one of them goes you should probably replace all of them but that is easier said than done, since there are 8 total freeze plugs and only 2 seem to be accessible whilst the engine is in the car, I believe this is the one exactly on the opposite side of the one I replaced a week or two ago
first pic shows you how the exhaust manifold flange is smack dab in the way, the exhaust manifold would have to come off to hammer in the new one one of the other pics shows how the plug looks as you try to remove it, it's sort of half way in half way out, looks bad, but that's actually a good thing in another pic I show you how much metal crud I pulled out of the freeze plug hole with a telescoping magnet thingie, I don't even wanna know how much other crud is still in there |
Re: Restoring Rusty - Exhaust Manifold
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I had to remove the driver side exhaust manifold in order to get the right angle to hammer in that freeze plug
note the air tubes that stick out when I flip the manifold over, I had no idea that's what they looked like on the inside, would sawing those off help the exhaust flow better? if one was to keep the stock manifolds instead of going to headers |
Re: Restoring Rusty - Headers Test Fit
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well with the exhaust manifold off I decided to try test fitting those Hedman Hedders, as you can see there is quite a difference
and soon realized they will not fit, since what is the 3rd cylinder exhaust pipe hits the lower control arm, also they interfere with the oil filter |
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don't mean to ask a stupid question, but:
Shouldn't there be a gasket between the cylinder head and the exhaust manifold? mine did not have one |
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Hi Greg, I've got headers on my truck so I took a quick look at the bible and it looks like you should have gaskets. Hopefully it's ok to attach this picture no ill will intended.
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Stock manifolds to heads ,any I've removed did't have a gasket.
I clean my bumps right out,(older style)I've found it helps,I'd remove the tubes. May want to change out the pipe studs,while they are out |
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Nice build, and I enjoyed the thread very much!
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removed the air injection tubes from the stock exhaust manifold, I believe they were just pressed in so I was able to use a bit of gentle persuasion and slide them out and since I am going to go with long tube headers eventually there is no sense in porting and polishing these or painting them
FYI: the truck bed makes for a nice work bench, I keep forgetting that |
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Re: Restoring Rusty - A bit of degreasing
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decided to clean up the cylinder head and the block a bit, it's nothing to write home about, not pristine, but cleaner, and good enough to see new leaks, am I right fellers?
Once again I used a 3:1 ratio of elbow grease to Mineral Spirits to clean this, LOL |
Re: Restoring Rusty - Exhaust Manifold Gasket
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decided to use an exhaust manifold gasket when reassembling although it was pointed out to me that the truck did not come with one from Fremont California
splurged $13 large on a Fel Pro three piece gasket not only because they are "the leader in aftermarket engine sealing and the brand professionals trust "but since they usually come with instructions, LOL installed steel faced side toward the manifold, as shown in second photo installed 3 slotted bolt holes to the front of the left-hand bank |
Re: Restoring Rusty - Torquing
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yes The Greg owns a Torque Wrench and is not afraid to use one, tightened the six exhaust manifold bolts to 20 lb. ft.
decided I know better than the GM engineers and opted not to put the tin heat shields back on, hope I don't regret it, but it's just to hold me over a month or two till I bolt up some long tube headers |
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so just a quick comparison of the way this exhaust manifold/head looked originally when I got the truck, and how it looks now, still work in progress but definitely better wouldn't you all agree?
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