Re: Restoring Rusty
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got home today and had to clean and inspect the fourth, technically chamber de combustione numero siete
and I am pleased to report all is good in the hood as far as the eye can see note this rascal gave me a bit of a scare at first, hey what do you expect from junkyard parts right |
Re: Restoring Rusty
It's about time you got back you slacker ,LOL .
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the intake valve looked yukie too but cleaned up real nice
if there are any Valve Whisperers in da house, please chime in, can you read what this valve is trying to tell us? |
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I cant read valves but I think it is saying I feel better with all that crap cleaned off .
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the final #7 combustion chamber looking good, check out that shinny head man, I am getting good at this, couple more cracks, couple more replacement heads and I'll be able to go Semi Pro at this
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Re: Restoring Rusty - Magnafluxing Vortec Cylinder Heads
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alright Gentlemen this concludes Phase 1. aka the Eyecrometer Inspection
and now we move on to the Magna-Flux-Capacitor DYI Test phase this is a little SPOTCHECK Kit I assembled using the following three products for just shy of $75 ducates (Note: their official kit runs $130 - must come with pixie dust cause it has the same products in it) got this from a local place called Grainger. Amazon sells competing products for about $35 total but its Hazardous cargo and must be shipped by truck, and I didn't have that kinda time folks. 1. Mr. Clean 2. Red aka "The Penetrator" 3. Developer |
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Come on out to N. Ga and you can take apart the original 350 from my wife's 72 Malibu convertible and tell me why with only 55,000 miles on it I could not keep oil in it . Rather than rebuild it I bought her a 290 HP crate motor for less money than the rebuild was going to be .
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Mobile Engine Autopsies by The Greg! |
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well that kit may be nice but I immediately did what any car guy does, I customized it.... Ladies and Gentlemen I give you the
SPOTCHECK Plus |
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Thanks for the entertainment Gregski!
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Re: Restoring Rusty - SPOTCHECK Magnaflux
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SPOTCHECK Magnaflux Step 1.
spray the cleaner (Blue Label) on a rag (not directly on part) and wipe the part clean I think we can handle that... (we'll use paper towels, but shhhh don't tell) |
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Nice upgrade there Greg.
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SPOTCHECK Magnaflux Step 2.
spray the red dye Penetrant (Red Label) on the part, allow to dry (I kid you not) from 1 to 30 minutes thank you Mr. Salesguy for putting some stupid irrelevent label right over the name of the product on the cans that i have to painstakingly peal off for you all to see what can is what, Nice! got it... |
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Waiting...
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SPOTCHECK Magnaflux Step 3.
Step 3 is basically repeat Step 1. spray the cleaner (Blue Label) on a rag (not directly on part) and wipe the part clean we did it before, so we can do it again |
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SPOTCHECK Magnaflux Step 4.
spray the developer (Yellow Label) on the part this white stuff should dry in 10 minutes and I guess we are supposed to look for red spots / marks resemblin' cracks |
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Waiting... some more
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OK, honestly I don't know what the heck just happened, I think the red stuff never really dried even after waiting 30 minutes, and I think I could have done a more better job of wiping it off before shooting the white stuff, here is what it looked like after the white stuff did dry
I'll let you draw your own conclusions but I think this process may be worthy of a Mulligan |
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I see lots of cracks like a plumber
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Цветные пенетранты Magnaflux серии Spotcheck |
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GOOD NEWS / BAD NEWS
Fellas you may wanna pull up a chair for this because I am about to drop some knowledge on you... ha ha that you may find useful and that could save you some moneys |
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GOOD NEWS - The new replacement driver side Vortec head appears to be good, no cracks!
BAD NEWS - The passenger side Vortec head that I thought was good actually has three cracks in it. But get this, this is where it gets interesting. I did not find those cracks because of the Magnaflux product but despite of it. I was cleaning all the white powder off, getting ready to retest using the Magnaflux stuff, when I stumbled upon a tool that helped me find the cracks, check it out. Best part is I got this tool from Harbor Freight for FREE, as you might recognize it! The three cracks are: 1. between the #2 exhaust and intake seats 2. at almost 1:00 o'clock in the #4 exhaust seat 3. right after 11:00 o'clock in the #6 exhaust seat |
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So just use some brake cleaner and paper towels to wipe the seats off real good, then get a flashlight and get really close to the head and especially while it is still wet from the solvent you will see the cracks, no Magnaflux needed. If I had to do it again I would not waste my money on it.
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the other thing I learned is how to use this Magnaflux stuff, basically the secret is to spray it on just a tiny bit, just dust it
I also learned that the red dye does NOT dry, EVER, trust me I tried everything, leaving it be for a couple hours, even helping it out with the wifes hair dryer but that's OK, allow it to soak in for about 30 minutes then wipe it off real good, then just dust with the Developer one or two quick squirts per chamber is all that's needed |
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OK, so now that I knew this head had cracks in it, I gave the SPOTCHECKER another shot to see if it will find them, and it did, but again because I used a fraction of the product this time than the time before, and that's important
See? The same three cracks are now highlighted in red |
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well I got so good at finding cracks I decided to re-examine that first driver side Vortec cylinder head to see if now I could use my Eagle Eye to spot any more cracks, again just with that flashlight (FREE flashlight that is) and sure as _________ I did, I found a total of three cracks, check it out I covered each one with a thin strip of green tape
Cracks are in: 1. Between #1 intake and exhaust seats 2. at 1:00 o'clock in #5 exhaust seat 3. Between #7 intake and exhaust seats |
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WHAT A DAY, What a Day! Lets end it on a positive note. More parts are here:
Of course we open the big box first. So from JEGS (better prices than Simmit I have found) and FREE shipping, we got: Hydraulic flat tappet Camshaft GM Performance part number 24502476 for $108.99 Lift: .435" intake, .465" exhaust Duration: 212* intake, 222* exhaust @.050" tappet lift Centerline: 109* ATDC intake, 116* BTDC exhaust Lobe Separation: 112* Fel-Pro Vortec Intake Manifold Gasket set part number 1255 for $22.99 GM Performance Head Gaskets part number 10105117 for $37.98 and a new even sided Thermostat Housing GM part number 10108470 for $3.99 optional, but I don't like that stock lopsided deformed one with one long bolt and one short one, yes the alternator is getting relocated, midmounted |
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Geesh! That's something!
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Your experience with the heads is exactly why I haven't bothered upgrading for. You spent how much money now on used heads to find out they are junk?
Sometimes you have to spend money the right way to avoid headaches and if that means buying heads from a shop ready to go then so be it. I see it as you now have spent $300? Between two heads and the test material? That is on head brand new. |
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Interesting. I didn't know the vortec heads were so crack-prone.
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I would not count the SPOTCHECK $75 dollar expense against the heads as I would have bought that to check my old heads or my block anyways. I agree with you, knowing now what I didn't know then I will not build or rebuild another engine with used cylinder heads, but hey education costs, and I don't mind paying, I have learned a ton and am still learning, and honestly I enjoy this hands on stuff, I learn way more this way than from a book, or a YouTube video, or reading the Internet. If nothing else, now when I read any forum about doing a top engine swap using old used Vortec heads I will just think, yeah right, good luck with that, LOL |
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12558062 - late 90's Chevy Tahoe and Suburbans 10239906 - late 90's Chevy Trucks (two flavors of this one, that's what confused me, one type of these 906s I hear may be good) The ladder of the two the 10239906 has hardened exhaust seats from what the web tells us, but supposedly flows less, hence I went after the 12258062 ones. The Iron Alternative GM Performance's New Vortec Heads Promise Big Flow Numbers For A Modest Investment "The easiest way to identify a Vortec head is by the sawtooth pattern cast into the front. Look for casting number 12558062, but avoid casting number 10239906, which has a modified exhaust seat and loses 20 percent of its flow at 0.120-inch lift." Now I am reading that, that may have been a myth. |
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well gotta run, the Junk Yard awaits, I hear there's a '99 Tahoe with a Vortec head with my name on it
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Learning from others experiance says that there isn't a flow differance btw the castings and that the only safe bet is using the "906" castings - IF they truely do have the factory inconel seat insert !! (and not all one ton trucks have the inserts)
All unleaded heads have hardened seats from the factory but they are "induction hardened" which is a hardening process done to the casting and is not a separately installed seat. |
Re: Restoring Rusty
That sucks. But you learning us something
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