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I used a 1-2-3 punch combination on the motor mounts of Primer, Paint, and Clear.

Convinced myself to always use primer when I take something down to bare metal, and not to cut any corners.

Decided to clear these for extra durability.

now I normally don't like to cross polinate my paint brands/products, but the can of Dupli-Color primer went bonkers on me the last time I used it, it wouldn't stop spraying, it even kept spraying after I tossed it in the trash, LOL

plus this KRYLON Rust Tough primer is great, covers so well

didn't these parts turn out AMAZING!!!

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yeah, good call I plejurized that from here, LOL

TECH- A SIMPLE WAY TO ADJUST VALVES

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so glad I decided to remove these support brackets, check out what was hiding behind there

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alright lets clean these rascals up

.... there that's better

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and three and a half hours later the engine cavity be done, wire wheeled, washed, cleaned, and prepped for POR15, now we wait for payday (cause we be broke), than buy sum POR15 and slap it on there hopefully this weekend

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LOL, yeah gut stuck in the angle grinder once, (where did you mount the Go Pros in my garage bro?, or are you with the NSA, jk) no but seriously took them down after the first pass cause they were gray/brown and I couldn't think straight with that much dirt hanging around.

The entire day was spent like this, grind a little, vacuum a little, grind a little, sweep a little, grind a lot, vacuum a little, grind some more, you get the idea, it was more work to clean so often but I would crawl under the frame, and sit on the grand in the engine bay and I didn't want to crawl through piles of dirt so I would stop and clean every so often

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Awesome thread!!! Will help me tons on my 87. You guys sure got a ton of knowledge.. Keep up the great work Gregski! I've just made it to page 54 since getting off work. I can't stop...lol. Anyhow- lookin great

What's the next novel gonna be??

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Wow, thank you so much for the positive feedback Rob, yeah the guys on here are very knowledgeable and willing to share what they know, great group of truck owners for sure.

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Good job man, this looks great! I like how you establish limits so the project doesn't run away with you. And your wallet. Awhile back you were talking about the freeze plugs you were skipping and said "I plan on regretting that later". Made me laugh. That's part of setting limits so the project moves ahead. And it is! I was surprised how many pages there were to read since I last checked in. Keep it up!

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Hi, glad you revisited, and yes defining your scope is very important, and it's not easy, I don't like jobs such as this one, as I find myself spinning way too many plates at the same time, top end rebuild, paint the frame, paint the core support, rebuild HURST shifter, overdrive transmission swap, exhaust upgrade, rewire electrical, my goodness, I will be so glad when its all over.

I am at my best when I am focused, like when all I have to do is swap the rear window for a slider, there that will be it for that project then I will drink some beer.

After that I plan on doing the door hinges, again that will be it for that project, one and done (ok bad example cause there are actually two doors, so two and through, ha ha)

you get the idea, divide and conquer

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be careful when you shake the spray bombs and drink beer at the same time,I,ve shook the beer and not the paint.LOL

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oh wow man, sounds like an occupational hazard, hope the beer was ok, ha ha

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"Alcohol abuse" ..we're all guilty at some point. (finally find that full one the next day just sitting where you forgot it ??)

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I didn't want to get paint on the brake lines nor the fuel line, so I used an old school trick, if you use aluminum foil to wrap those parts its much easier to remove it than blue tape, so here we go

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a pint of POR15 semi gloss ran me $30 bucks and half a pint would have been more than enough, the nice thing about paint that you get to brush on is that it really goes a long way

even started to tape off some nuts and bolts until I realized they will be hidden by the cross member support brackets, LOL

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I think these pics are after only the 1st coat, things looked even more awesome after the second one

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the crossmember support brackets got some POR15 love too

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Looking good. Keep it up.

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thanks

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since I had more than half a can left over of the POR15 I decided to do my best to store it, as always the lid was warped so it would not snap back on properly, so I put it on the best I could and tapped the can shut, then I put it in an air tight zip loc bag, we'll see if it will dry up or not in a few weeks / months

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and here's some pics with the aluminum foil off, as well as the blue tape, to be honest with you the aluminum foil did stick to the frame in two tiny places where I had to wedge it between the brake line and the frame and where I did not pull the brake line far enough from the frame, but I just removed it with a razor blade

also the blue tape did not come off as easily as I would have hoped, POR15 is more like glue than paint, maybe next time I need to remove the blue tape while it is wet instead of waiting on it to dry completely, I may use a razor to remove the blue tape residue, its barely visible around the base of each bolt head, but The Greg knows its there, ha ha

so I would consider this frame ER - Engine Ready!!!

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so my Mopar buddy Seth swung by the other day and pointed out that my air cleaner base had like a 2" drop in it, something I totally overlooked, and suggested I try a flatter base plate

one trip to a hot rod shop and $15 bucks later, we had ourselves a solution

I appreciate all your suggestions, they were all correct, but at this time The Greg must go this cheapest route as this project(s) is really costing me lots, as I'm sure you understand, plus who's to say I can't try your suggestions, the Crossfire distributor cap (love that thing), a 1 inch carb spacer, or even a smaller H.E.I. model all together, but for now this will do, I will have to paint it black of course, but hey, whats more fun than having to strip and paint brand new shinny parts [/sarcasm]

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check out all the clearance now, hewk you could drive a Prius through there, ha ha

and what's that below the air cleaner, why it's a shinny almost still new Holley carburetor, who knew that was under there? ha ha

The Greg is happy(er) since now my hold down shaft is too short, hee hee, hey that's how the game is played right, fix one thing, find out another one needs a fixin' (no I'm not posting a pic of my short shaft) :crazy:

again thank you all for trying to help with this one

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The engine bay looks great. Wonderful job.

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also I think I have the passenger side plug wire runs figured out using some of the stock Vortec wire loom clips all be it in a slightly unconventional way, but hey isn't this what Hot Rodding is all about, and does it get any more quintessential than routing your own wires? - don't answer that, jk

I went out and bought an individual 26E Duralast plug wire (which matches those that came in my set) and replaced one of the longer 32 inch ones to take some slack out of it

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thanks, hey what are you doing up so early, oh wait different time zone, I'm the one up at 6 am

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so lets disassemble the radiator core support

make a note that there was a bolt missing so we don't go cussin' up a storm looking for it upon assembly time, ha ha (no I have NEVER done that before)

and man I always forget that middle bolt, it is nicely tucked in under the housing, so don't yank on this thing if it won't come off easily

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than the radiator hold down bracket and the radiator can come off, so easy, such good access on the side of your house, ha ha

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and document how the horn goes on there, looks like just one bolt, but hey, we've been tricked before

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then we flip her over and remove the plastic grille, we make a note of all the little crusty white clips we will brake pulling off and will have to find and replace when re assembling, fun, fun

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all you purists may wanna skip this part and go watch a commercial or something, hee hee

I will be painting all the chrome pieces black, so in order to do that I need to scuff up the chrome, so I figured lets do that with these long strips mounted to the radiator support so that they stay in one place

may be hard to see but what I am trying to show here is one side all scuffed up already (left) and the right one still sorta shinny

trust me in person that one side looks nice and dull and ready for some primer

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Just wondering how your spray bomb parts are holding up with install and general abuse.I find some of mine scratch easy and I,ve done the sanding and a good wipe with alcohol and prime and paint.I don,t think I like the dupli color bombs thou.Any thing that you have come across company wise or techniques in you process ?One of my rust primers I bought said CAN SPRAY A SECOND COAT IN AN HOUR OR WAIT 3 DAYS I can,t figure that one out.So If I don,t make the second coat in a hour I have to wait for 3 days to apply second coat or do I have to scuff it before second coat.Even the paint store couldn,t explain that one to me.

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I'm guessing the coat and recoat windows are so it cures properly, not sure but I always follow their guidelines because it does scratch fairly easily. One thing I've done that helps cut down on scratches is let the painted parts cure a week or two or three before I install them. There's always something else you can work on while you give the paint time to fully cure/harden.

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i kid you not it has taken me the better part of two days to disassembly this monstrocity

ok, there finally done with the back, oh wait, forgot the horn, see what I'm talking about, lol

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so we turn her over, loose the grille, and then the chin comes off

let me tell you something, this trim is high quality stuff, it is bolted on and does not use those infuriating brake them at all cost clips

men and women who built these trucks I salute you

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and I managed to get all the nuts off the trim piece without breaking a single bolt, thank you Mr PB Blaster

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