Re: Restoring Rusty
 

thank you for trying to help, unfortunately the fuse block did not come with it, and the engine was already out of a vehicle so we did not know what it came out of, here is a better look at that single red wire stand alone plug and a fuse block panel I grabbed off the internet

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

play your cards right and you too can some day find yourself at the Pick N Pull Premier yard, no actually just take a right instead of a left at the check in counter, ha

scored a MAF off of a 4.8 L 2001 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Extended Cab! snagged the entire enclosure just in case we decide to replicate the stock look, don't know yet

I bought it based on Internet information that the 4.8 and the 5.3 are pretty much the same, correct me if I am wrong

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

I don't usually buy used O2 Sensors but when I do I ensure they are the wrong ones! ha ha

So I pulled the O2 sensors off of that truck assuming mine was a 2001 as well, but later I found out mine are not the square plug but the flat four kind, maybe somebody can set me straight on this as I thought the square plugs may have started in 2002 when they went EGRless exhaust manifolds, but what do I know?!

so these are the wrong ones for my harness

12562943
DENSO
234000-5170
08B07

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

fortunately a 1999 GMC New Sierra 1500 also 4.8L Extended Cab had the right O2 sensors

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Nice to see you joining the LS community. I also am running an LM7/4L60e combo. Yer gonna love it!! I'm sure you've done your research before jumping into this project. Here's a couple of tips for you. The truck exhaust manifolds won't fit, not unless you want to do some frame surgery. Get yourself some Trailblazer/Envoy/Rainier v8 manifolds. No slicing, no dicing, a simple bolt-on. AND... your down pipes will bolt right up to them. Check your rear gear ratio. I found that with a 3:08 gear, my RPM's @ 70/75mph were around 1600. The LS motors like to rev. You can use your existing gauge senders simply by drilling/tapping the pass. head and original oil pressure sender base. The PCM sends a 4cyl. tach signal so you'll have to see if your aftermarket tach can be changed for that, and most likely the tach is gonna need a pull-up resistor to function. Also, does your aftermarket speedo operate mechanically or electrically? If mechanical, your gonna need some sort of electro mechanical adaptor (check Speedhut) as the 4L60E uses a speed sensor that tells the PCM your speed, and the PCM tells the trans when to shift. You gotta have that. The swap is a definite learning experience, but well worth the effort. Tejas Steelworks has a nice guide you can use (free, online) to help you along the way.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

If the O2 sensors are otherwise the same you can change out the Metripak connector shells on your harness or the O2 sensors themselves fairly easily.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Thanks for all the great info, I can't wait

Ah snap I just bought a second set of used EGR hole free truck manifolds (only $40 bucks, but still). And being too cool for school I did not have Pick N Pull mark em for returns.

It's electronic.

What engine mounts do you recommend?

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

That's if you're using the auto tranny.

If you're using a manual tranny with z-bar linkage or a driver's side external slave, you'll need a 99-02 F-body manifold on the driver's side.


Edit to add: I'm told the stock truck manifolds will fit a square body frame with only minor modifications. Supposedly you have to whittle away about 3/8 of an inch on the frame, and it's good to go.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

I also found another 12200411 PCM in this gorgeous 2002 Chevrolet Tahoe 4dr 1500 4WD LS

I bought it because this one we know has a VIN: 1GNEK13V32J326764 and so we will see how my ELM 327 Interface handles it?

We also get to see how the wiring harness enters the red and blue connectors going into the computer (since my harness was already [ahem] "worked on" some of the wires were slightly re routed to put it nicely)

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

OK so bear with me as I try and explain the method to my madness.

The 2002 Tahoe VIN is 1GNEK13V32J326764 we know that as a matter of fact

My ELM 327 Interface (which I do not recommend for this action, I just happen to have it for some reason) reads it as: 1iGNEK13V3:2J32

OK, let's set those over each other

1iGNEK13V3:2J326764
1iGNEK13V3:2J32

so the "i" is meaningless and so is the ":" but note how it only reads the first 13 characters out of the 17 possible?

OK, so now let's reverse engineer what the ELM 327 Interface had for my ECM (we must do this manually as the online VIN checkers won't help us since we don't have enough digits)

1iGTEC!14V01Z19V

using what HATZIE shared with me and the InterWebs we go about deciphering the digits

1 = US

G = GM

1GT = according to the World Manufacturer Identifier ... [wait for it] GMC holy snap, BONUS, cause you know my truck is actually a GMC

E = Gross Vehicle Weight Rating, or GVWR, is revealed by the fourth character. E for 6001-7000

C = RWD instead of K = 4WD awesome that's what we wanted

1 = Identifies the body style, number 1 is used for a 1500

4 = Identifies the body type, the number 4 is for a two-door cab

V = this 8th digit is the engine designation V = 4.8L LR4, T = 5.3L LM7 so this sucks but maybe the computer is not original to this motor so fingers crossed as we drop the pan and check the number on the crank

0 = A Check Digit used to algorithmatically validate the entire VIN (blah blah blah)

1 = Indicates the model year ie 2001, more Awesomeness aka Drive By Cable

Z = plant in which the vehicle was manufactured, couldn't care less

1 9 V _ _ _ = The last six digits are used to identify a specific vehicle within the border Year/Make/Model class, not sure why there is an alpha "V" in there

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

couldn't help my myself, had to lift her skirt up and take a look at 'em Cylinderellas heads

man these valve covers are cast = Nice!

Everything appears to look in order on the interior. So I gave both sides a little sprinkle of holy water (WD-40)

then I cleaned one valve cover for comparison, (engine like that you don't clean both sides in one day... ha ha - one's got to pace himself)

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

let's dance

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

so this Chinese knock off VXDIAG VCXNANO Vehicle Communication Interface comes with absolutely zero instructions or documentation

I guessed at installing something called VX Manager.exe off of the DVD provided and that appears to install the drivers for it

so I get a program called ALLScanner to launch and I saw some video of a dude clicking on the License icon so I did that and it got licensed, but now what?

I guess I need the GM GDS2/T2W Diagnostic module but the darn thing won't install I have tried it now on two computers

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Tech2win and vxmanager setup.
http://youtu.be/kaI9kYxgEyQ

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

That engine is CLEAN under the valve cover. Looks like whoever had it changed the oil regularly. Nice score!

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

thanks bud looks like the dude in the video is using a newer version of what they gave me on my DVD, but regardless I am just unable to install that darn GM GDS2/Tech3 feature. I don't know what the problem is, I guess they probably want an old steam powered PC like a Windows 7 32-bit.

I have tried it on three computers now and no dice

1. Windows 10 64-bit
2. Windows 7 Starter (my trusty Netbook)
3. Windows 7 Home Edition but 64-bit

Option 4. Run Windows 7 Ultimate 32-bit in VMWare Player on my Windows 10 host.

I even found and downloaded their troubleshooting utility called Techline System Analyzer and I am Failing the Operating System test.

and we thought carburetors and points distributors were bad !!! whaa ha ha

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

2010 Camaro exhaust manifolds worked great on my 85. no need to cut frame.

Also, I bought inexpensive eBay mounts because I`m cheap and always looking to save a buck. They worked perfectly well until I went to install a low mount A/C bracket and compressor. Did not fit as well as I would have liked. Wish I would have spent the extra cash on the Holley mounts. Too late to change now as trans mount and exhaust are now in. DOH!

I am running a mechanical, belt driven cooling fan. This dictated the use is the factory 85 fan shroud. it clears the fan nicely, but the stock 2003 intake tube is a little off. Good enough to get it up and running but not good enough to be permanent. bought a cheap eBay Cold Air Induction set up, but only used the pipe and elbow. Did not use the aftermarket filter. kept the stock air box.

I Also used the 2003 understood fuse box. in hind sight, should have used a smaller fuse panel like the LT1 site suggested.

Lastly, my motor did not like Denso O2 sensors. Gave me All kinds of fits. Finally switched to A.C. Delco and have been trouble free since.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Cool I do not plan on running AC, so I should be fine, could you show me a pic of the ones you got.

I am going to build my own kinda like Brandon's from LT1Swap but more fuses so I dont' group unlike components together like he does, so probably something like

FUSE 1 = Injectors
FUSE 2 = Coils
FUSE 3 = O2 Sensors
FUSE 4 = Transmission
FUSe 5 = PCM
FUSE 6 = I forget, MAF I think

good to know

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

just wanted to list all the pieces of software for this VXDIAG interface I am playing with, by the way I have no idea what any of them really do, but here they are

1. VX Manager launches something called ALLScanner which has a menu item called Diagnostic but all it lets you do is add an App which they call a "Feature" I guess like the one for GM or Ford or Toyota. You do not Diagnose anything in ALLScanner.

There is also a menu item called J2534 App which is just a link to their GM Tech Info System website which is a deadlink that redirects you to https://www.acdelcotds.com aka their TECHNICAL DELIVERY SYSTEM which we will call Software #2.

2. TECHNICAL DELIVERY SYSTEM aka https://www.acdelcotds.com this is where you pay your $40 bucks for a two year subscription to manage one VIN. Once you Register and log in it takes you to https://tis2web.service.gm.com aka TIS where you will find:

• Service Programming System (SPS)
• RPO Code Display (RPO)
• Security Access (Security)
• Calibration Information (SPS Info)

I am not making this up! See third screen shot below.

3. That brings us to Global Diagnostics System - GDS which I guess is one of the "Features" we installed using Software #1. However this also failed us as it starts with model year 2009 and goes up. A guy who calls himself Peter shows us how it is supposed to work on his YouTube channel Chevy Volt, Opel Ampera VXDIAG, VCX NANO GDS2 Diagnostics

4. And finally we have Tech2Win which I am not sure if the Win is as in Windows or as in Wining? ha ha

are you confused yet? good, cause I spent about 12 hours on this and still got nothing to work, ha ha

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Tech2Win is just what it says... a Tech 2 emulator running on Windows. For all practical purposes the laptop running Tech2Win and VX Diag or an MDI is a Tech2. Since your PCMs are 99-2002 vintage the Tech 2 is the best diagnostic tool you can get.

If you need the GM NAO 33.004 flash card image for Tech2Win go to the Tech2 Wiki and register as a user. http://www.tech2wiki.com

GDS is the diag software for GM stuff after about 2009 or 2010. You don't need it for this project.

As far as TDS goes... VXManager is likely the same deal as the Bosch MDI Manager. Drivers and hardware settings for the VCI. When you get to the step in the Delco TDS web menus where it asks what interface to use pick VX Diag.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Thank you bud that helps, so here are the screens presented to me in Tech2Win, notice how the last one is blank and I don't get to Select the interface you want to use:

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

http://www.vxdiagshop.com/wholesale/...r-gm-opel.html
Read through the reviews ^^^

I have a full MDI clone because I didn't want to mess with gray market hardware... my installation and use path was a bit different...

Here's info from the reviews by someone that's done this with a VX DIAG interface.
--------------------
Mr.Styve Ortega
on Apr 27, 2019
My order arrived. The seller provided a link to the software. Got the software downloaded.

I installed everything and figured out how to use it. First, the Tech2Win must operate as a virtual machine on your computer, so it doesn't matter if you have a 64bit OS (as I do). There are no instructions for this, so this is how I completed the install:
- Install the VM software
- Install the VX software (the VX software is for the diagnostic connector that connects to the car, and takes the place of GM's MDI)
- Use the Tech2 Win auto-install
- Install the GM MDI Manager
- **Before** you open Tech2 Win, you must first open and run the VX Manger software and connect the vehicle connector to the USB, so the VX manager recognizes it (if you do not do this FIRST, the Tech2 program will not be able to locate the interface, and will display "no communication".
- Open Tech2 Win application directly, it will automatically open via through a virtual machine on your computer passively, there is nothing you need to do with the VM software.
- Once the Tech2 splash screen appears, press enter. You will be prompted to select which MDI the Tech2 software is supposed to recognize (this is why you must run the VX manager first, otherwise there will be no MDI selection present to select).
- Connect to the vehicle and begin polling data

I believe many of the respondents who state this did not work simply couldn't figure out the necessary path. You must install everything, not just parts. The Tech2 looks for the VM software to open, so if you don't install the VM hardware (thinking it's not necessary), it may not function. Also, the VX OBD2 interface and VX manager software must be installed and running before you open the Tech2 application, otherwise the Tech2 won't see an MDI interface (the VX spoofs an MDI serial) for communication.

Once I figured out the necessary path for operation, I am able to use this just as a GM supplied Tech2. You are still limited to model years 1992 - 2013 just as with a Tech2, so don't think you're going to use it on a 2014 - 2018 vehicle as they are not supported by the Tech2 anyhow.

I've been able to get into my 1996 K1500, 2004 CTS-V, 2005 Uplander (programmed the key fobs), and 2013 Cruze with ease. This is the Tech2 software, so you can execute anything a Tech2 can (save for programming a PCM, you need a separate service for that).

All in all, it's a great price for the capabilities you get without the need for a separate hand held device. I used the same laptop which I use all of my performance tuning. I would be hesitant to use this product on a device with personal information, but that's just me.

Overall, it does work as described!
------------------------------

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

:uhmk::uhmk:So much for my LS swap!!!!!! I am totally lost in what is going on. However...I totally respect the knowledge that is on this forum. Go get um boys!!!!

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

ha ha, just ignore that last part I was trying to talk to my LS engine using GMs software which is horrible so I look forward to using HP Tuners software instead, and all we have to do is disable the Vehicle Anti Theft System aka VATS, the other stuff is optional, hope that helps.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

I think I will just stick with my overweight, outdated 454 big block and with and old fashioned carb. I can make that work.:lol:

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

dropped the oil pan to validate if this is a 5.3 or a 4.8 since the PCM VIN suggests a 4.8 but it was listed on Craigslist as a 5.3

oh yeah... that's Dusty in the background, Rusty's daddy!

well according to Cliff's How To Channel on YouTube 4.8 or 5.3 LS Vortec? How to Know For Sure! my crank number is not 12552216 so it is not the 5.3

Side note, the oil pan is nice and cast aluminum, awesome work GM!

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

ok now for some good news, with much persistence I built a Windows 7 Home Premium 32-bit computer and finally got that darn Tech2Win software to work with the Chinese knock off VXDIAG VCXNANO Vehicle Communication Interface

Re: Restoring Rusty - LS Lessons Learned
 

so as you ride shotgun with me on this my first LS Journey, I would like to document and share all of the LS Lessons Learned aka LSLLs for the fans and prosperity

the first thing my buddy who owns an LS2 equipped Chevy Trailblazer asked when I shared with him I scored an "LS" enjin and transmission, was: "Did you get the TCM?" huh what? I responded, what the hewk is a TCM

the Transmission Control Module he replied, earning my blank stare, ha ha

which brings us to Lesson Learned # 1.

LS Lesson Learned #1 - we are going to call this there are Three Kinds of Computers, although that's not what we really mean, but allow me to explain

PCM stands for Power Control Module, this is what our LS truck engines come with 1999-07 respectfully this single computer box controls both the engine and transmission

ECM aka Engine Control Module, you guessed it, the ECM controls the engine alone

vehicles with ECMs have a separate cousin box called the TCM which is the Transmission Control Module I guess, I really am not up on that, but that's as far as I go

Re: Restoring Rusty - LR4 4.8L oil pan gasket remove and replace
 

one thing I always do when I buy an engine off a car is remove the oil pan from the engine and clean the crud out of the oil pan, this is a good idea for a number of reasons:

1. it tells you how well the previous owner(s) (mis)treated the vehicle, ha ha

2. it prevents the 20 year old crud from contaminating new oil and straining the new oil fiters

this brings us to LS Lesson Learned #2.

The factory stock oil pan gasket in riveted on in two places to the oil pan and those rivets need to be drilled out in order to replace the gasket

the Greg did not know that

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

this sums up my current LS level of expertise, ie cleaning the oil pan

honestly guys the reason I am showing you that Target bottle of regular dish soap, because I always hear of guys looking for that magic silver bullet of cleaning, Simple Green, Orange Purple Power stuff, Sea Foam, expensive Brake Cleaners, etc... when all you need is something to break down grease and oil, now if only we had such a thing already in the household... hmmm

simple cheap dish soap and hot water works great

I also think that any time you get an engine out of a car it's a must to drop the oil pan and clean it out perfectly clean, it is way better than pumping in any type of Synthetic high mileage engine snake oils or using super duper oil filters made from unobtainium, ha ha

and don't get me started on guys who change the oil but don't change the oil filter!

so turn on some music, drink a beer or two, and have at it, it's very therapeutic

[end rant]

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

If it's not leaking the gasket is re-usable.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

thanks bud, unfortunately mine separated (rubber from the metal part)

Re: Restoring Rusty - LS Swap List
 

figure I make a list of the things I will need to take care of to make this LS Swap happen, sort of high level, feel free to share your thoughts give me your input, these are sort of in order of how you can do this, ie dependencies

BASIC LS SWAP REQUIREMENTS LIST

1. Thin out wiring harness (optional)
2. Make bench wiring harness for programming the PCM yourself (optional)
3. Disable anti theft in the PCM (DYI or send it in to a specialist)
4. Motor Mounts (ie adapter plates)
5. Transmission cross member? or will the stock one work (I have 4 to choose from)
6. Fuel Pump / Sending Unit (like to use an in tank one, hopefully factory OEM will fit)
7. Fuel Lines (hose adapter fittings, do I use my hard lines or run high pressure rubber ones)
8. Transmission Lines (will I need extensions? / adapter fittings)
9. Build Custom Fuse block (optional if using factory one)
10. Install engine wiring harness
11. Drive shaft lengthened / shortened?
12. HP Tuners - disable Emission Controls (EGR, Evap, post cat O2s, etc.)
13. Some sort of gauge cluster to see my LS engine feedback

* Green means done!

I am going to update this list throughout the project as things change or creep up on me as they always do. This is my first swap, so be gentle. The end goal of this list is a self propelled vehicle, not an 800 horse power twin turbo pavement scorcher.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Motor mounts, motor mounts, motor mounts

seems like the first thing we need to do is find a way to install the actual engine in the truck... and for that we need to find a way to bolt it in some how, and there is an obvious difference in the blocks motor mount system SBC (3 bolt) vs LSes (4 bolt)

many choices, people seem to like the aluminum LSX Innovations (some hate them cause supposedly they crack, but I hear that is user error, see one of the videos below)

I like making my own solutions, so I really dig this young man and how he is a problem solver, rare these days in the iPhone iGeneration

MrJohn613 Budget LS Swap : Adapt Motor Mounts Free DIY question is, would you do this?


Bad Luck Garage WHICH LS SWAP ENGINE MOUNTS DO I USE? recommends the LSX Innovations motor mount adapter plates

these work if you want to keep the factory LS AC according to Lonnie's Garage (Puppetkicker) 1984 C10 Project ---- LS Swap Part 1 (Motor, Mount Adaptor Plates, and More)

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

There are multiple threads about disabling GM VATS on the hptuners board.
Your PCM may not even have VATS.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Some food for thought; think about taking the nose of the truck off (12 screws IIRC). makes the swap SOOOO much easier! You can use your 350 engine clamshells(they bolt to your engine plates) to place the engine onto the original V8 frame mounts. Before thinking about a trans crossmember, set your engine/trans combo into the truck and see where the new trans wants to be. You may find that one of your four trans mounts will suffice and that also your stock driveshaft may work as is, too. My big concern for you is your vehicle being California Emission compliant. Do you have to go through emissions testing/inspection?

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Rusty is a 1974.
Unless I'm mistaken it's exempt in California since the model year is prior to 1975.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Correct, and a huge reason why I bought it, at the time I had a kid at a tattoo parlor drop his '77 stepside (with rotted out wooden bed floor, missing inner fenders, but really nice engine from a Nova he said) from $2,500 down to $500 but I wanted no part of SMOG testing, and he knew it, the magical year is 1975 or prior, the window was supposed to slide to 1976, 1977, 1978, 1979... but Swartzeneigher terminated that... (see what I did there?)

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

OHHHHHHMYEYES...…….:drama: