Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Intake Gasket - $20

same verse as the first, I went with Fel Pro MS90314-2 and then tech support recommended Fel Pro part #1205, hey their tech support was closed on Sunday, what was I supposed to do, twirl my thumbs, lol and the gasket matched the ports really well and seemed like a quality piece

and I did the unthinkable, instead of using the gray or black gasket sealer to run a bead on the Chian walls I used their rubber gaskets and only gooped some sealant in the corner, will it work, or will I live to regret it, ha ha?

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Header Gasket - $27

I actually wanted to the one Edelbrock Tech Support recommended part #1405 but no one had it in stock, so I went with this Cometic C15189HTS from Oh Really's and it looks alright

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

since this upgrade [ahem] repair is going to run me just north of $1,000 I was trying to keep costs down where ever I could, I decided to run my self aligning rockers off the Vortec heads and also use their push rods, I also decided to for now just run the stock '74 valve covers, so

Valve Cover gaskets - $17

I specifically asked for the cheap cork ones (I have gotten great results with those) and the dude behind the counter gave me these Fel Pro VS12869 rubber ones, didn't notice till I got home

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

and finally since we are going from a dual plane to a single plane intake manifold I had to get a open gasket for the carb

carb gasekt - $8.00

again a Cometic brand part # C5263FC, it's actually nice and thick I like it, way heaftier than those Holley ones

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

the third generation machinist (darn it I forget his name, sorry) gave me a tour of the shop on Sunday and showed me what they use as thread sealant, and so if it is good enough for them it is what I will be using

it's that purple stuff, Permatex HIGH TACK Gasket Sealant #80062 from O'Reilly's 4 oz for $10 bucks

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

alright I think those heads sat on the work bench long enough, what do you say we put them on?

notice how I start to remove the push rod guides since you shouldn't run these guide plates and use self aligning rockers, hey I read it on the InterWebs so it's gotta be true, right?

I used washers as spacers instead of those plates

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

and a little later...

man you don't realize how much plumbing and plugging of holes you don't need there is when you swap an intake manifold, lol

I think I blew it on the passenger side valve cover and put it on backwards, but oh well, I'm sure it will be coming off for some unforsaken reason anyways

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

and a couple hours later, shortly afer 9:00 PM we was done

she fired up on the first try, which was shocking since I forgot to mention my one year old H.E.I. distributor seized... after I took it off the truck. I went to put it back on and it would not spin by hand, so I was like what the hewk... so I busted out with my trusty two year old (hee hee) Petronix H.E.I. and it dropped right in and like I said fired up on the first try...

so the truck fired right up and ran, I checked the timing and it was at like 26* initial so I dropped it down to 12* initial and called it good, dialed the idle back to 900 RPM which is where I had it before, that's where I get the highest vacuum of 19"

I was surprised that my idle AFR was perfect in the high 13.9s border line low 14.4s just as it was before

different cylinder heads, different intake manifold and the truck idles the same, I took it around the block in the residential area 35-45 MPH and it drove the same(ish)

well other than the dreaded massive exhaust leak!!! see those rusty Hooker headers, I hate 'em!

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

so I sat there depressed in my thinking chair drinking my wifes Chardonnay out of the bottle (seriously we were all out of 805) when I remembered December 4th... that's right I bought some FlowTech headers and they have just been hanging on my garage wall for 5 months, gentlemen I think they are acclimated!!! I've been meaning to tell you about those, but you know life got in the way...

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

it was nearly 10 PM by now but I got a second wind, I did not know if it was the wine or my hate of the Hookers but the next thing I knew I was pulling out the spark plugs which were still hot, and next thing I knew the old passenger side header was on the garage floor right next to the new one

I got as far as mounting the Flow Tech header on the passenger side and oh my god perfect fit and you can reach all the bolts, one criticism you can't get a socket on the #6 spark plug, had to use an open ended wrench to snug it up, hmmm, nothing's perfect

I called it a day/night here, The Greg is pooped! thanks for reading

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

That's the way I like to start my day; having my morning coffee and catching up with Rusty. :mm:

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Yes, no guide plates with self-aligning rockers. And make sure the rockers contact only the valve stem tips, and not the retainers.

As for a Performer RPM Air Gap, I'd pass on the gimmick (and the cold weather warm-up issues) and get a good ol' 7101 Performer RPM. Or if you want to maximize torque in the mid-range, a Performer EPS Or better yet, the much newer-design Weiand 8120 Street Warrior. But, hey, it sounds like the open plenum manifold is working just fine for you.

Did you get rid of that Holley 80457, or convert it to dual inlet float bowls? And are you able to use the rear vacuum port on the manifold? A problem with Edelbrock manifolds is the rear port is somewhat obscured by a Holley float bowl.

Glad to see you got some nice heads. My 350 got new Vortecs four years ago, but if I had a do-over I'd go with conventional heads. No problems so far, but their thin castings are prone to crack if the engine is overheated -- apparently even slightly overheated. That's why the vast majority of used Vortecs have hairline cracks. Of course I learn this after buying the heads, manifold, valve covers, expensive intake gaskets, etc, etc.:(

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

LOL, thank you so much, I sense since this thread be four years old the original audience may have changed a bit, but I aim to please regardless, also I be lying to you all if I said Rusty being my daily driver hasn't changed the way I wrench on it, its all about Progress not Perfection now, but it's all good

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Mike really good info in your post, and I will address all your points soon when my brain is fully On, but first just some quick answers.

Nope I still have it and yes I converted it to a dual bowl dual inlet sight glass bowls with two metering blocks and got rid of that silly metering plate in the back.

Ha ha, I almost forgot to plug that port in the back of the intake manifold, I thought about tapping into it with a 90* but then I thought I just use the port in the back of my carb for the brake booster. I may have been able to clear it since I run a 1" carb spacer, but on a second thought I may wanna experiment without the spacer, so it's probably best I didn't use it.

As our friend Lucky Costa of the Hot Rod Garage fame said, "after careful hours of research, I bought the first thing I saw" I may have gotten lucky with these, don't know yet, but it's what was sitting on the office floor at the machine shop, the owner said he wanted to use them on his own motor, (BINGO... I thought good enuff for him, good enuff fer me) but he said they been there three years since some guy couldn't afford to pay off one of his engine rebuilds the shop owner got em in a trade/barter.

Awesome bro, have you tried the Crane Cams 10309-1 spring kit on them to get the higher lift or the Comp Cams 26915, 26918 beehive springs? No doubt they crack I have now gone through five pairs of Vortec heads, that's 10 cylinder heads from the junk yard, and none of them was any good.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

well I'll be a wart hogs _ _ _ I recon them FlowTech headers came with 3" collector extensions, gaskets, and even bolts, if I can only find that stuff in my garage, it's been five months since I got these, hee hee, unless Summit is just teasing me with this pic...

Collector Reducers Included: Yes
Collector Reducer Exit Diameter: 2.500 in.
Bolts/Studs Included: Yes
Gaskets Included: Yes

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

found em! man I wish I remembered I had these, I wouldn't have to buy that $27 exhaust gasket set, oh well

those of you who have been following Rusty for a while, know that we have not been in this house an entire year yet, so I am still trying to get the work shop all set up, and I'm sure you all know how much fun moving and doing the setup all over again is - Not!

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

After running the stock heads for a year or so, I switched to GM LS6/LS2 beehive valve springs. Installed them at 1.750" using CompCams 787-16 retainers and 648-16 locks. It's a super clean setup.

Cam is a GMPP roller used in the HT383 and RamJet 350 crate engines. It's a small cam by "bigger is better" hot rodder standards, but GM's HP/TQ chart for the RamJet shows it has a very wide powerband that's perfect for an around town cruiser and running to the dump. But the engine is definitely not a dog when I stomp on the gas. In fact, if/when I go to a lower gear than its current 2.73, the truck should be downright quick.

My headers are Patriot H8048, which are made in the same Mexico plant using the same pattern as Doug's headers. (Both are Pertronix brands.) However, I had to re-route the hard lines on the passenger side because the #2 tube hit them. What a PITA. But, man the tubing is heavy gauge, the flanges thick, and they tuck up high. For the money, your Flowtechs look great.

Edit: Don't even think about using those headers gaskets. What's worked for me over the years are both Fel-Pro square (#1444) and Mr. Gasket round (don't have the P/N) steel core header gaskets. Also, Summit aluminum collector gaskets. All are reusable 1-2 times. But heck, we know you never tear anything apart once it's assembled. :)

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

sounds like you did something similar to me and followed a GMPP engine spec build, did you go with the 1.6 rockers like the RamJet?

so your cam is a roller and has a .460" / .481" lift, mine is a flat tappet from their 350 HO engine so it's a .435" / .460" with stock springs I recon it's the biggest you can go on a Vortec with a flat tappet cam unless you swap springs

your duration is tight 196* / 205*, mine is 212* / 222*

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

196/206, .431"/.451". I have 1.6 rockers on intake for .460" lift. The Ramjet engine uses 1.6 rockers on both intake and exhaust.

Very few differences between this and my engine, And mine actually has 9.3:1 compression.

http://chevroletperformanceparts.com..._RamJet350.jpg

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

so got the driver side header off, here's a little stare and compare, I hated that dreaded #5 pipe in the ol' Hooker header on the right, the long one across the top

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

took some pics of the exhaust gasket against the cylinder head for us all to ponder the sealability factor, or lack there of, these E-Street heads have a funny D shaped exhaust port, note the gaskets be square

Vote of Confidence = low, ha ha

a friend of mine, Mopar Seth seems to think you match the gasket to the header not the head, I don't know what to think

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

and soon enough it was a cuttin' time, and the wheel of death was out

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

so Plan A was simple, we cut off the flange off of the 2.5" pipe and weld on the 3" to 2.5" reduction flange...

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

remember to slip on the bracket before you weld on the flange, hee hee

... preferable on the right side of the beed

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

yes, Ray Charles welded these for me [ahem] with his feet, ha ha

ok I have not dialed in my welder on that beed ok, I'm going with that excuse