Re: Restoring Rusty
 

these gaps are horrible, there is no way we can take this truck fishin' like this

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and the front of the door

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so the passenger door had to come off

used a floor jack to hold it up and removed it as a one man job, no problem, a bit heavy but you can do it by yourself

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then it was time to massage the hinges, at first it appears as if they are the same just one is mounted upside down, but after closer examination the top one has two star gears to help prop the door open using that metal S spring

top one - two bolts up / one bolt down

bottom one - one bolt up / two bolts down

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to get the hinges apart you need to remove the pins, to get the pins out (they is pinched on the bottom) you need to grind the pinched metal with a hand file or cut / sacrefice the pin

I was able to take the pin out on the top hinge like so

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the top pin I could spin with my fingers the bottom pin would not budge not even with vice grips, this made grinding the pinches with a hand file impossible so I had to use the death wheel to cut this pin in half

I figure I would use new pins anyways so why put in the effort to get them out in one piece

I am not sure if the pins ought to spin freely or not, maybe someone with more experience can comment on that

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I'm sure many of you have heard me rant about the Dorman aftermarket replacement parts, and how I prefer to avoid them, I specifically heard to stay away from their door hinge pin and bushing sets so although I would prefer the OEM type, I wanted instant gratification and got these from NAPA, hopefully they aint Dorman in disquise

right off the bat the new replacement bushings seem shorter than the stock ones

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I like the rack. Smart cookie.

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I've used GM, Chrysler, Dorman, NAPA, ... hinge pin kits. They all work just fine.
I prefer the units that have E clips or threads and Nylok nuts to prevent the pins from backing out rather than just depending on friction at knurled areas on the shaft alone.
The bushings are sintered bronze or iron. They'll break up pretty easy if you beat em in with a hammer. I use washers, nut, and bolt to pull them in.

If you oil them a couple times a year the bushings will be just fine.

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Thanks, we have yet to hoist the kayak up there to see how it fits, and if it clears the cab, its a bit too heavy and bulky for a one man lift, so waiting on my teenage son to wake up, its 10:00 AM on Saturday and counting, ha ha

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Thanks Hatzie that's what I was hoping to hear, as soon as my kid is up I will give them a try, probably best to have an extra set of hands to mount the passenger side door back on

looks like it's going to be 100° F today and for the next five days, Awesome... Not!

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I plan on building racks similar to your so I can haul 20' lengths of steel. I will likely have an extension over the cab.

However, I would place the cross bar lower, so the posts stick up above the cross bar to help keep things UP and not fall down. Gives you something to tie stuff against. For Kayaks, though, it probably doesn't matter.

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Take pics once you get the kayak up on it. I want to see it.

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found some rust under the doors, which was expected, fortunately its just surface rust

so a short dance with the wire wheel followed by a paper towel acid bath and we will be ready for primer in no time

P.S. got a call from my buddy Lucifer he asked if I wanted to come down to his place to cool off today, (day 2 of over 100° F streak)

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I would think Lucifer's place would be much hotter.

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Do like progress!

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That's what I was thinking too

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simple ~ and as my buddy puts it "A Truck doing Truck Things!!!"

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in the front I use the holes in the purches to hold the tie downs, in the rear I had to bolt back up the hooks I removed when I first got the truck, lol, but this time I mounted them underneath, these are temporary and will do for now, ie this trip

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now back to the door hinges, here they are off the truck, I wasn't going to let one missing bushing prevent me from taking these pics after it went missing, of course I found it as soon as the pics were taken, ha ha

I can't believe how I loose things all the time, its as if there was someone hiding in my garage just pranking me all the time

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and a mandatory old door hinge pin and old pushings along side a new pin and new bushings

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Thank you, lots of work

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and new bushes going in (not sure what these are made of - some orangy stuff) with a liberal coat of white lightning bacon grease

the top one slid it beautifully...

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the bottom one was a bit shy

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had to use a rat tail file to open up the hole a bit (GM gods forbid I had a proper sized drill bit) to have used that instead, and made guick job of it

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hey, what ever, works for me

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I say leave the one stripe and don't do another lol. Also if you want to save your doors spray some lubrication oil down the insides.

The doors normally rust from inside out because of bad window seals at the top.

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Nice! I like the single stripe a lot.

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I like seeing trucks doing what trucks do. Nice.

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I will likely be shunned from Gregskis build and the forum for all eternity for posting these pictures of my daily driver but I will risk it we are like brothers Gregski!

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Wow yup, I can barely tell our vehicles apart, ha ha. By the way how did you manage to swap an LS into that little Honda Cervix (wink wink)

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removed the door striker pin (came out much easier than expected with that torques star screw thingie, I thought I was gonna strip it fer sure) so that it would not interfere with the door alignmentability

with it worn the way it be, it's time fer a new one soon

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also cleaned the door crusty locking latch the best I could with it still being on the truck ie in the door, some scrapping with a flat screw driver followed by a steel brush and some denatured alcohol and brake cleaner and then some chain lube and finally some white lightning grease

to be honest whichu all though the door still aint aligned perfect what used to take two attempts to shut the door now takes no effort at all, before after the first attempt I could pull on the door and it would open 1 inch every time, I have no idea how that worked, ha ha, but than on the second time it would shut proper, try telling your teenage kid that sequence of operation and you get, never mind dad I'll ride with mum, ha ha

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ok I ain't sure how accurate this iPhone GPS based Dynolicious app is but here's some numbers fer you all

0-60 in 7.06 seconds (pronounced respectable)

1/4 mile in 14.70 seconds at 97.7 MPH (we can do better)

116.5 MPH Top Speed (don't tell the wife)

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Looks like that door has been mis-aligned for a while.
I read somewhere about someone using ABS tubing to replace the plastic sleeve on the striker pin. Can't find it now...

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3/4" Pex tubing from the hardware store for the striker pin. You have to buy like 8 feet though LOL.

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Oh well. If he's replacing the pin anyway it should have a spacer on the new one.