Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

once we modified the tool, and reached out for more coils, well now we were cooking with propane

i used some needle nose pliers and a small flat screw driver to gently wiggle the retainers out

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

so lets seal the deal shall we, I am so glad I was talked into replacing the valve seals, I have never done that before, but let me tell you they were passed it

plus I had to use the vice grips to pull them off, and that pretty much sealed the deal that they aint going back on, all ovalized now and such

so one big reason why I just had to take a peak at those seals is that the Engine Specs called for two separate part numbers for new valve seals

10212810 - Intake (Valve Stem Seal Type: Umbrella, Valve Stem Diameter 0.344 in., Valve Guide Diameter (in): 0.500 in.)

12564852 - Exhaust (Specs unknown)

have any of you heard of this, can anyone comment please, to me they both look the same

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

lets just take a quick look at the #8 Exhaust Valve itself

I see a wire wheel clean up in its future

Beautiful Margin and a Face only a mother could love!

The Russian Judge gives it a Score of: 2.8

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

and a quick looksie at his big brother the #8 Intake Valve

we shall clean him up too and see what lurkes beneath that black carbon cloak, what are you trying to hide Mr.

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The primitive tool for the valve springs.. Holy. Ive been graced with having a pneumatic valve spring compressor, and thought the hand powered lever action ones were primitive haha good work man. Cant wait to hear it running again

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

thanks man I appreciate that

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

The umbrela seal is like this
http://www.jegs.com/images/photos/20...249-504-16.jpg
The others are viton seals and look like this
http://static.summitracing.com/globa...-514-12_ml.jpg

Watch where you place the longer arm on the tool it should be on the lower coil side of the spring that will give you the most "compression" of the spring also a magnet helps get the locks out if they are caked in there from years of abuse

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

what do you make of this video, not me some dude porting some Vortec 062 cylinder heads from the comfort of his very own computer room, LOL

DIY Head Porting Small Block Chevy Vortec 062 Part 1 of 3

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

thanks bud, I ended up getting these

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

You don't have to go to the extremes as this guy... But yes. Essentially you want the openings to match the gaskets so that you get optimal airflow.

When you put your gasket onto your heads and or intake manifold you will see just how bad the castings and how much material can be removed.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

The L 5 3 on the back of the block and also similar on the heads is the casting date. The 010 is the casting number for the block. The numbers on the head surface pad is what makes it specific for your truck. The left number should match your vin. The number on the right is prefix code that tells where and when it was assembled and what exactly it was power wise.

Word of caution on those heads, the vortec heads are known for cracking. It would be a good idea that you have the heads magnafluxed for cracks. The surface on them also is very crude. You really need a very true and flat surface. I would highly suggest a visit to your local machine shop. Having things done now is a lot cheaper then being bent over the fender doing it a second time. This is not my shade tree opinion then is my machinest opinion. I have seen more then my fair share of them.
You have a great build thread going on just read thru it, keep it up love a budget build. Great save on an old truck.

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OOOHHH his wife must love him. The stuff gets everywhere why would you even consider port heads in the house let alone in your computer room. They will never get that out of the carpet lol.

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Throw some black paint on the heads mating surface grab a flat chunk of steel and throw some sandpaper across them. You'll know quickly how flat they are.

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Renter I bet, LOL

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Just ready your whole thread fun read. Make sure to replace those steel freeze plugs with brass while the engine is out!!! Subscribed

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Thank you for reading. I'm trying, two I already did while on the truck, didn't use brass, but plan on using brass from now on, went to AutoZone the other day and they only had one plug, it was brass, but only one, so I bought it.

Today I went in to a different AutoZone on my way home from work, and they too only had one brass freeze plug, so I bought it.

It's not easy! lol

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

I totally get it, but I must admit the entire time I was watching that guys videos I was counting the ways I can muck these heads up, LOL

On a serious note, the main reason why I don't intend to port these Vortec heads is that everyone claims they are possibly the best GM cast iron heads, well so lets compare apples to apples. My non ported non polished 882s to these non ported non polished 062s.

See how I did that? See how I just got myself out of doing more work, ha ha

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Alright so here is an illustration of what my man is talking about, though I am demonstrating using the exhaust ports and header gasket, but you get the idea.

Basically the holes of the Vortec head and the holes in the Mr. Gasket gasket do not match up, in other words they are not the same exact size. I wonder how much of that bottom 3/16ths of meat could you grind down before hitting a water jacket, or is there even a water passage below the exhaust port, honestly I don't know, and I'm too skierd to find out, ha ha

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and here is how the Mr. Gasket gasket holes match up with the HOOKER 2452 Competition header holes. Pretty good, but maybe they could use a little grindage also, but its risky, as you could cut through the weld and there are thinner walled pipes behind there.

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Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Silly Greg I wasn't talking about that side lol. I was talking about intake manifold sides.

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Those are for the spark plug wire loom holders.

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Greg, do not remove any material from the bottom/floor of the exhaust port. Doing so will actually hurt flow.

Felpro 1444 fits the stock Vortec exhaust ports well.

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sorry I assumed and gathered from the video that people port and polish both the intake and the exhaust ports.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

thank you kindly that helps, much appreciated

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Thank you Jake, I will check it out.

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got the driver side cylinder head all cleaned up just need to disassemble it next to clean the valves, I think it cleaned up pretty good, the black spotting you see that's just black paint from when it was factory painted and not grease

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just a little stare and compare at the way she looked when I got her and now after a short wire brush session

I should show a similar comparison of me before (clean) and after (dirty) after I transffered all the grease and grime from this head and on to myself

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

got the crank pulley cleaned

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i liked how it looked all raw and shinny so I got this bright idea that I would just clear it and see how it holds up, I had some Dupli-Color Engine Enamel paint left over, so why the heck now, right?

what do you guys think, in terms of lookability and durability?

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

I would highly suggest that you reconsider that. Unless you plan to lap the valves in, getting valves to seal again once they are removed is a very large c*** shoot. Even lapping valves in you will have problems. After running, the valves have mirror image to the seat. They do not spin they just move up and down, open and closed. You are opening a big can of worms on this. I have seen this attempted numerous times by customers. One valve you may get lucky but 16, you will be chasing your tail.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

thanks, I have always been told that they spin/rotate a little at least?

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I cleaned the Timing Cover next, then I realized it has some sort of built in rubber seal, well obviously but can only that seal be replaced or did I just waste my time making this cover shinny and now I have to get a new one

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decided to straighten out a few dents with some precision tools

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

If you look at your old heads (882) they have rotators on the exhaust valves. These were meant for smog reasons to help cool the valves from the smog pump. AKA make the valves turn to help create less emissions. If you look at your new heads all the retainers are the same. It was a theory that the valves were rotating always, and while some might move a little, it pretty much stays in one spot. About the only real time you will see a valve move/spin is under valve float condition.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Knock out the old seal from the back side and replace with a new one. Make sure your balancer is not worn either. You should have all the seals and gaskets in a gasket set. Order a full set from Summit.

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the timing cover seal is easy to replace but make sure you support it properly to not warp it

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That seal is a cartridge lip grease seal driven into the bore in the cover. Any half decent engine gasket kit will have it.
If you're re-using the harmonic balancer you can get a "lip relocator" type seal so the lip isn't riding in the 42 year old groove in on the balancer snout. The other option is a Speedi Sleeve to cover the groove on the balancer snout.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Thank you very much for that detailed explanation. The engine specs I am following do call for two different types of valve seals, one kind for intake another for exhaust, would that have something to do with your explanation.

10212810 - Intake (Valve Stem Seal Type: Umbrella, Valve Stem Diameter 0.344 in., Valve Guide Diameter (in): 0.500 in.)

12564852 - Exhaust (Specs unknown)