Re: Restoring Rusty
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removing the tailgate handle linkage is equivalent to the lost art of building a ship in a bottle
surprisingly installation went ultra smoothly, and the gate even latches and unlatches, amazing I assembled it and fitted it |
Re: Restoring Rusty
How long before this freak paints it green? I bet it being black is driving him crazy? |
Re: Restoring Rusty
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meanwhile under the truck, progress continues
this being a one man operation, I had to improvise (since the transmission adapter I borrowed did not fit inside the hole of my floor jack) I decided to make a transmission hammock out of tie downs this allowed me to separate the tranny from the bell housing and suspend it, without any small animals getting hurt in the process |
Re: Restoring Rusty - Gearshifter Removal
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removing the gearshifter was a major pain, that's why I waited till absolutely necessary, I read a bunch of advice about pressing down on the ball joint thingie and twisting, that may have worked in '76 but not 40 years later
and to my surprise there was no YouTube video on it what finally worked was a suggestion I read on some forum, a guy said just tap it with a 2x4 down and counter clock wise, I swear 4 taps and she was out once again ProMark 3000 to the rescue |
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Re: Restoring Rusty - Bell Housing
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so then we were looking at this
hardest part of the bell housing removal was the clutch pedal bracket / linkage and a weird cotter pin I wasted a lot of time on removing before I finally crawled inside the engine compartment and got it out that way |
Re: Restoring Rusty - Bellhousing
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removed the bell housing with that clutch pedal lever thing attached to it, and it didn't separate till it was on the garage floor, live and learn
not sure it is supposed to be charcoal black on the inside like that |
Re: Restoring Rusty
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so now we are looking at this, this is where we stop tonights' progress
tomorrow, clutch removal |
Re: Restoring Rusty
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TJD 1974 350 conv.cab - 160 4 C-10 & 1500 |
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Hey Greg, that Pro Mark 3000 looks like a useful tool, do you sell those? :lol:
Well, obviously you've gone the transmission route, and that will work, so keep up the good work you're doing. One nice thing is that you have unbolted the tranny floor cover. When putting the tranny back in, you can span the hole with the Pro Mark 3000, and use ratchet straps to safely hold the tranny from above. Good luck with the seal, and the hunting at the pick a part. |
Re: Restoring Rusty
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my arm rests arrived the other day, check out this shipping, is this why we are paying $28 bucks for shipping cause someone at LMC forgot to get some smaller shipping boxes?
they also shipped the window seal kit separately in another package, I wonder if they didn't have enuff room in this box for both parts plus all the free air they sent me? LOL the new pads are all one piece of hard foam painted with black textured paint, there is no metal base bracket nor vinyl covering, wonder if the other suppliers like Brothers sell the same stuff? ~ Hi me, this is me three years in the future! With another product WARNING: these are junk, the driver side one didn't even last a year. It's a design flaw, how can you screw on foam (with no metal backing) to the doors and expect it to hold / stay on when you pull on them. Lame, Don't buy these! ~ |
Re: Restoring Rusty
Looking good and good score on the tailgate.!
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Re: Restoring Rusty
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progress continued today, as I removed the pressure plate and the clutch plate
I definitely need a new clutch plate as there may only be a 1/6th of an inch to the rivets, and it would be a shame to replace it and not replace the pressure plate (see the worn out fingers, I think that's what those three things in the middle are called, please correct me if I am wrong), so I will be replacing them as a set, as well as the throwout bearing hey less parts to clean, right!? |
Re: Restoring Rusty - Fly Wheel
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that left us with the Fly Wheel
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Re: Restoring Rusty - Fly Wheel Removal
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six bolts later the fly wheel was off, I think the dowel alignment pin was missing
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now we could see the situation, and find another broken starter tooth purched up in there stuck with some old grease, imagine what would happen if that thing vibrated loose and fell between the starter and the fly wheel teeth, ouch
well this confirms I have the old style block with the two piece main seal but we already knew that actually this place does not look too bad I expected it to be soaked in oil, notice the purdy freeze plugs, geez two more |
Re: Restoring Rusty - Rear Main
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ok, why are we doing all this? oh yeah, we need to replace the rear main oil seal
drain the oil. drop the oil pan, and remove the oil pump (man this sounds very familiar) undue two bolts on the rear main and tap it with the baby sledge to loosen it up, try not to drop it, yet watch it slip out of your hand and into the oil bath below, geez I'm slippin (pun) |
Re: Restoring Rusty
Don't forget to install a new pilot bushing/bearing and check the wear on that flywheel, it may need resurfacing.
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Re: Restoring Rusty - Rear Main Oild Seal
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ah the Holy Grail, the infamous two piece rear mail oil seal
... so how long did that take ? 2... 3... hours What? TWO DAYS !!! |
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I N T E R M I S S I O N ~ End of Act One ~ |
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lol looks like you do in fact have know what you are doing.
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Re: Restoring Rusty - The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly
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Sunday morning, tea a& toast and under the truck by 8 am
put in a solid 2 hours of cleaning already this morning [hey you know me] the good - I could sit up in the trans tunnel (though the edges are guillotine sharp) the bad - still hard to reach around the top of where the bell housing mounts (need that clean so I can easily see where new leaks emerge if any) the ugly - engine cross member (yup got side tracked and removed about 45 lbs of dirt and grime from this beast) I recon no one at GM won the Nobel Piece Prize for the lip design on the bottom of that thing, though it's great for haulin' dirt and grime pic of what I started with |
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