Re: Restoring Rusty
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Re: Restoring Rusty
It was a big block but I've noticed on your intake there is one plug. One that is directly over the water pump bypass connection. I just wondered if you could've used that spot or not. I'll see if I can get you a pic of the one on the truck at work. I replaced that hose a few years ago and it was a little bit of a bear. But we got it at autozone or advance auto one of those two. They're a tight bend but doable. I was just curious. Truck is looking great all together.!
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Here's a shot of what I was talking about. You can kind of see what I was talking about. Sorry about the pic. Not the greatest. But it goes from the water pump to intake. Piece of hose is four or five inches long. Maybe 1/2 inch heater hose I guess.
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4000th post! 4000th post!
Truck looks really good, Gregski. Congratulations on getting it all back together. |
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... a little air cleaner nonsensical progression
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gentlemen now that I have rebuilt the top end, got the Vortec heads on there, and the whole engine is looking cleaner, I find myself paying more attention to things and going through and making adjustments and fine tuning things
One question I have is regarding the Holley 4160 carburetor throttle cable linkage, I have noticed that in its current position I am not opening up the throttle plates all the way seems like I can go about an inch more, so should I move the linkage to the round hole towards the front of the carb, see pic I think Holley sales a special adapter/stud to go in that hole to move the cable there |
Re: Restoring Rusty
mr gasket part# 6026. its how we have my dads 57 belair ran,
2 piece bushing. Flat one goes in from the back side and your stud runs through it to hold 2 halves together https://www.holley.com/products/fuel...age/parts/6026 |
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yep all you really need is the washer parts
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I am interested in cleaning my truck's bolts the same way you have discovered. Would you mind sharing your vendor? Ace hardware is getting expensive. Thanks for all your documentation. Reading Your thread has become my morning ritual. Carry on McDuff! |
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Re: Restoring Rusty - Fast Idle Adjustment
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decided to mess with the fast idle as it was reving as high as 2600 upon the cold start procedure
here its shown at 2200 |
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basically you are supposed to turn that screw counter clockwise to bring the RPMs down, well that's all well and good except the screw is in there all upside down and who knows what clockwise or anti clockwise be, so basically just loosening it or unscrewing it makes the RPMs go down and screwing it in makes them go up, (in theory)
you see I spent a few days trying to tame this little rascal, see the most you can turn that screw is half a turn at a time cause the carburetor and such is in the way, so what The Greg would do is use a 1/4" box wrench and give it a 1/2 turn (as much as possible) then start the car and see where she idles, then the next day, (after a proper cooldown of the enjin) I would turn her another 1/2 turn and see where she RPMs and after playing that silly gave for a day or three, I said enuff is enuff and I unscrewed that darn screw flat all the way as far as it would go without falling out, I had to see where it would RPM with it all the way out, you know the extremes from one end to the other, and I gotta tell you that even all the way out she still RPMs at above 1200, see there the pic well I wouldn't be writing about this if it don't surprise me none you see, cause now I need to turn the screw back in some to get that 1500 sweet spot, but it aint all as easy as them marketing guys make it out to be, especially for such a small tiny little screw |
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1200 is a little low. I usually set Fast Idle at 1500-1800 RPM and Curb Idle at 700-800.
You should be able to swing the fast idle cam over the adjustment screw and set it even after she warms up. |
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so from all the way out to half a turn in I think I dialed in my Fast Idle to around 1500 RPM
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Gentlemen I only know two things for sure about these old trucks:
1. They a leak. 2. If they don't a leak, they is out of fluids! |
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time to get this situation rectofied real quick
now some of youz might ask now Greg why didn't you replace that output shaft seal when you had the transmission out and on the workbench, and to you I say... [who made you guys the efficiency police, lol, ha ha] it's so much more fun doing it on the truck, well under the truck well under the now lowered truck first we go out and git the a proper single purpose seal puller "guaranteed not to mangle the old seal as you pull it" we'll see about that |
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after raising the rear end of the truck sky high to prevent any seapage, we snuck up on the seal and in no time she was out
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not exactly mangle free but we don't care it's gettin replaced anyway, plus its been in there for over 30 years
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four dollars and thirty one cents later we were the proud owners of a brand new replacement seal part number 15041 made in Mexico
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hold still for a comparison shot, old part number 15404
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of note is this keep things tighty thighty spring that hides inside the metal housing and clasps the rubber seal tight, present on both seals the old one and the new one, I yanked it off the old one to show you all
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now to the untrained eye this may look like a used clutch fork and release bearing...
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but a Certified SemiPro Shade Tree Technician CSPSTT knows exactly where we are going with this
yeah it's the perfect output shaft seal pressure inner thingie tool |
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and in what seemed like no time at all, the much lesser known Seal Team 5 had the new output shaft seal pressed in and ready for action
test drive done, and Leakage Report at 11 |
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Now we have been schooled by the Greg ,good deal .But Chevy's still seem to find a place to leak just to give us something to do.
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Chevy's don't leak .. They just mark their territory.
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Chevy's don't lose oil. You always know exactly where it is.
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But if that's a no-go, then here's what you're looking for: https://www.holley.com/products/fuel...age/parts/6026 https://rspimages.holley.com/6026.jpg?width=583 You will also need a longer ball stud with 1/4" threads. One in this kit should work. https://www.holley.com/products/fuel...ies/parts/20-2 https://rspimages.holley.com/20-2.jpg?width=583 |
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Whoops, I was wrong about the hole I've used. My 6-cyl throttle cable wasn't long enough, so I used a Lokar cable and bracket that I had in the shop. Lucky I wasn't able to sell it at a swap meet!
http://pic100.picturetrail.com/VOL38.../412532665.jpg |
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Every time I see the stance on this truck I break inside a little out of it's beauty. Then I remember you want to lower it because it's not a 4x4, and find myself cringing. But to each their own, and as always an amazing thread.
P.S. At least she's not slammed. :metal: |
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hey bro how did that output shaft seal repair turn out? did it stop the leak man?
tough brake bro, tough brake! |
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well the good news is the new output shaft seal area be dry as a bone
another job that needed not be doin' done right! know what I'm a sayin' folks? ha ha |
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