Re: Restoring Rusty
Dang G. Thanks for being our tester. Can't wait to get the point where you are.
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Looks great dude.
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Door panels turned out good!
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Door panels turned out great, going to have to try that on mine.
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well you all know I'm not the type to sit still so although our local weather forecast called for four days straight of rain, it is nice and sunny and dry as a bone today, just goes to prove that our local meteorologists can tell us with absolutely certainty what the weather was like yesterday
so after dropping 5 gallons of gas in the tank and going for a joy ride, the wrenches were calling to me... so I went after the kick panels |
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i figured getting the passenger side out would be easier than the driver side, but I had no idea the driver side would be impossible, if any of youz have any special tips or tricks, please share, as I am getting real close to busting out the fire wrench on this piece
pics of the passenger side removed, this side looks saveable (this side is also what LMC Truck sells) I have have not seen the replacement for the driver side |
Re: Restoring Rusty
Hmmmm....
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What's giving you trouble on the drivers side?
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the panel is wiggled loose but feels like it's still stuck on something in the large hole unlike the passenger side where you can take out the glove box and see what you are doing the driver side feels like I'm building a ship in a bottle, very restricted access |
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Hey Greg, glad to see more progress. I haven't had my driver's side vent out, but to me, it looks like the e-brake pedal has to move. Now, I have had the pedal out, and it's not too hard. The cable clips in, but you may have to relax the adjuster nuts underneath to get enough slack in the cable. I do know you can get a replacement pedal pad from LMC.
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This build is pretty cool! Ive rarely read through every post in a build but i did on yours! Keep it up man!
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Took power napping to a whole new level today, needless to say it was a rainy day, sometimes you just need a day off, time to catch up on Wheeler Dealers show, ta da
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What's a power nap? Lol. I just fall asleep.
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anyone's who's ever bolted an aftermarket part to their truck or two, knows that sometimes it starts a domino effect where if you replace this you have to replace that, then you have to replace that
well, my Rochester Quadrajet had an internal fuel filter, my Holley does not, our trucks, at least mine do not come stock with an inline fuel filter either, you can see where I am going with this, I wasn't too comfy running it without a filter so I rented a flare tool kit from AZ and decided to put my big boy pants on and remove the pipe fitting off my hard line and put a nice DOUBLE flare on it so I could fit an inline fuel filter |
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let me add to that, that I have no idea, absolutely no idea why the person at AutoZone asked me what vehicle, year, make and model I needed to rent the flare kit for
also I had to purchase the pipe cutting tool as it is omitted from the tool kit, yet there is a snug little place where one may have fitted at one time so let me walk you through my first flaring experience first I could not even use the cut off tool I paid good moneys for (at least for the initial cut) because the darn thing would not fit on the pipe with the pipe nut / fitting on there, so I had to use a hack saw |
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ok, you know how poor craftsmen always blame their tools, well let me just say this was the worst tool I ever rented, hee hee
first we want to have a word with the person on YouTube who recommends we lube up the tube with some lubricant, yes that is a fantastic idea if you want it sliding down and out of the tool instead of having a flare put in it also needless to say everyone always demos a straight pipe that they flare, well in the real world this thing is a snake, I'm just saying the tool feels like it is made out of pot metal, the tube at 40 years old is no longer round but an octahedron |
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so I go to put the first bubble in it with the 3/8th adapter, the thing you are supposed to tighten slides off on one side, the tube hits me in my head, but I press on (a little pun there for ya)
I keep going I take the adapter thingie out and squeeze the tube just with the press thingie and end up with the ugliest half double flare you have ever seen, so ugly I will not be showing you any pictures, we will just collectively say "IT'S A TRUCK !!!" and move on to the before and after photos |
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So lets summarize this inline fuel filter install.
Greg likes actually being able to see if fuel is getting to the carburetor, not to mention being filtered, bonus! The Greg discovers that he has a 3/8th hard line going to a union/coupling with a 5/16th nipple, then to a 5/16th rubber hose, then a 5/16ths filter then 5/16ths hose and 5/16ths swivel fitting ... this inconsistency bothers Greg. Should he convert it all to 3/8ths or 5/16ths? |
Re: Restoring Rusty
It looks good. It takes time to learn to do flares and so on. Bending pipe is a "see it before you get there kind of thing."
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Greg, sorry you had so much trouble with the flares. I think your solution will work fine. About the fuel line size, either will work, especially on the pressure side of the pump.
For contrast, I connect fuel filters (for carbs) upstream of the pump, on the suction side. My thinking is that if it ever leaks, it'll suck air and not leak fuel, which might lead to the engine stalling. A leak on the pressure side of the pump could be bad (although really, the pressure is really low). |
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Also forgot to mention in my last post, nice progress on your build. |
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Re: Restoring Rusty - Air Cleaner
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I think I forgot to ask, and be honest with me, does this Caddy air cleaner look stupid on this small block. Its the one LMC truck has though I bought it for half price on eBay, I didn't expect it to be the size of an actual UFO. It may be at home on a big block but it sure takes up a lot of real estate under the hood.
The dilemma is this, if I keep it my buddies tease me that I would have to rename the truck from Rusty to either Darth Vader or Marvin the Martian, and I aint too keen on doing so. |
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I don't think it looks bad Greg. I do think a classic 14x4 air cleaner would look better. That's just my personal opinion.
It appears in the photo of your fuel line that there is a slight kink before entering the carb inlet. You may can get a 3/8 banjo fitting for that holley so you can run 3/8 all the way I usually put my inline filter on the suction side of pump. |
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I like the air cleaner ,old style all the way.
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So I am leaning towards this Mr. Gasket Flat BLACK one - seen em fer $25 on eBay filter included, maybe a gray or a black filter would be wicket too thank you all for reading and commenting, appreciate the input |
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After seeing the difference, I would never run without induction pre-heat if I was ever going to drive in the cold. The engine really wants to see 90-100 degree inlet air. In Sac you may get away with it.
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Ditch the Caddy air cleaner. Looks great on a 50's custom, and Caddys, but that's about it. As always, great progress!
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I like the 14in air cleaner you posted better than the Caddy one personally.
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You can send me the Caddy air cleaner and I'll put it to good use for ya.....hehehehe. I like'em personally but sometimes they work and they don't. I do kinda like it.....Though a 14 incher would look better probably...grrr.
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not a fan of the caddy one, but hey to each his own
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I think this banjo fitting will work on your Holley and it has a 3/8" hose connection.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aed-5427 As I was saying earlier, you could put the filter right before the fuel pump. |
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I prefer the flat black open air filter. Keep up the great work, I really enjoy this thread.
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Updates, UpDaTeS, updates ...
thank you all for reading |
Re: Restoring Rusty - Bungee
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first I want to show off this Polish Engineering custom 32" door opener, this is how you roll if your door hinge spring broke, see earlier posts
I am using a red bungee but I am sure other colors may work as well, please color coordinate accordingly, LOL I have a dream: that some day I will have a long flat drive way, hee hee |
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