Re: Restoring Rusty
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using the provided little alan wrench I was able to confirm that indeed my old vacuum canister is NOT adjustable
so then I decided to see how much adjustability is in that new canister first Pic is where we started turning from we'll say 1:00 o'clock second Pic is where we ended up after 4 counter clockwise turns (to the left) we ended up somewhere around 8:00 o'clock so it has about 4 1/2 turns of adjustability |
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Re: Restoring Rusty - Distributor Vacuum Canister Removal
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then it was time to remove my non adjustable vacuum canister
it is only held on with two philip head bolts made out of very soft metal I found out (surprise) I don't think you have to remove the springs and weights first but I did to improve visibility plus as I said before, I wanted those cheap(er) parts off anyway |
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I am not sure if one can tell a non adjustable canister (left) from an adjustable unit (right) simply by their outside physical appearance, but here they are side by side, the adjustable one does have that hex section on the canister where the other one doesn't
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and soon enuff we had the new canister in place on the distributor
this is an easy job, especially with the unit off the truck and on a workbench |
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and the original weights and springs back on the distributor
it is a task I would recommend everyone attempt at least once, yes even if you don't need an adjustable vacuum canister or different weights and springs, I say that to make you appreciate the newer distributor less systems, ha ha its sort of like learning long hand math first before the teacher allows you to use the calculator, (well shoot I know what you is thinking, you want that than "treat" yourself to a points distributor, I get it - but lets be reasonable here, we are not Barbarians, LOL) ... well I would love to test this thing, but we got a gaping hole in our transmission where the speedo drive used to be, remember we is still waiting on the new 43T driven gear and some seals to stop that fluid leak |
Re: Restoring Rusty
Just as refresher for the Gregski ..
16* is your base timing You will have mechanical timing which is the weights and springs which you need to add up to 32*. So your distributor weights/spring combo should yield 32* at 2500-3000rpm After that you then have your vacuum advance timing which should yield around 55* of timing when your driving. If you are within these realms the truck should run pretty good. Last note how much up and down play does that distributor have? If you buy a shim kit you can reduce this for a more stable distributor. |
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“Ok folks, in order to enter this antique boat show, you must have your boats docked in the water the night before judging. All bilge pumps will remain off during the night and only the boats that are still floating in the morning, will be judged.” Yes, there is a right way and a wrong way to do almost anything. To me, it always seems that, doing something the wrong way will eventually come back and bite you right in the tailbone every time. On the other hand, if one restores his antique Chris correctly, that boat can go out on any lake and get slammed around just like a new modern fiberglass boat with absolutely no worries. And who wouldn't want to have THAT? |
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It appears that Initial Timing (what you call Base Timing) always includes some Mechanical Timining aka advance. In my case my original Mechanical Advance Curve starts at around 800 RPM, so if my idle RPM is 850 I am already relying on mechanical advance in the initial 16*. This could explain why in my original configuration 16 Initial plus 24 Mechanical = 32* instead of 40* (that's because the initial 16 already has some of the 24 mechanical in it) hope I didn't just confuse the hiebie jibies out of somebody If you look at the curve for the new weights, (pic above in the thread) it starts even earlier at 600 RPM, so for sure at 850 RPM idle we are using the mechanical advance. Now what muddies the waters a bit is crappy aftermarket inaccurate parts. Which I blame for 10 initial plus 8 mechanical = 18 (which really shows that their curve does not start at 600 RPM, lol) Now looking at the GM HEI distributor part number 93440806 which I will be purchasing tomorrow (aka Pay Day) it's Mechanical Advance curve don't start till 1600 RPM - so we shall see how that all adds up |
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Depending on your cam shaft you may want your advance to start early or a bit later so find out your cam profile and where the lowest point of torque is made. |
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Advance can be adversely affected by one more setting that's usually ignored...
What's the end play on the distributor gear. http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showpost.php?post/1257140/Measuring HEI gear end play. It should be 0.010" +0.004" - 0.000" but most are set up way too loose. Every 0.0128" is 1° of advance as the gear lifts so the closer you can get to 0.010" the better. It's cheap and easy to fix... |
Re: Restoring Rusty
To answer some earlier questions. I am running 16-17 base timing. That is, timing without the vacuum advance hooked up and with the idle slowed to about 600 rpm.
The GM HEI adds 20* mechanical advance, so I am running 36-37 degrees total timing. The AR23 vacuum advance adds another 15* (spec is 7.5*, which is camshaft degrees), to make 51* all in. 51* is what the advance is at cruise, 2500+ rpm, with the throttle plate mostly closed (not accelerating), so the mechanical and vacuum advance are both in. I have seen 52* given as an absolute maximum for cruise "all in" timing. Check this: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=689321 |
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I also checked my old original OEM points distributor and it has about the same at .062 keep in mind a gasket will take up some of that space, I think at least half |
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There's no gasket there just shims and an odd spacer. At .062 you'll need three of the five shims in the Moroso kit... 2x .020 & 1x .010 should get you .012 clearance or even .011... 1° timing float isn't bad at all. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mo...FYomhgodmgEDkQ The gasket or spacers between the intake manifold and the distributor housing will fix the distributor bottoming on the oil pump drive or block if that's an issue. |
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picked up some MasterPro RAMCOA rubber bushings for my anti sway bar from O'Reillys. They were only $8.00 bucks a pair, and I must say I am rather impressed and excited to give them a go, they are made in the USA and seem pretty nice
not sure why one pair came in a bigger box (dated 2012) than the other pair (dated 2016), they are identical I have not favored the eurothane bushings everyone seems to talk about in the past, in my opinion rubber bushings are designed to cushion the situation and those polyeurothane things are essentially spacers and just make things rigid, sorta defeats the purpose in my mind I looked at the MOOG ones but for some odd reason their 1-1/16 ones only came in BLUE green truck and blue bushings, come on man! that would totally cramp my style, how was we going to go fishin' lookin' like that |
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a little stare and compare of the old ones and the new
I can't wait to try these, I don't think I ever had an anti sway bar before, it must be good for at least 20 horse power, ha ha |
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i gotta tell ya, I paid less ($3.61) for all the 3/8ths Grade 8 nuts and bolts on the left at Blue Collar Supply than I did for the twelve locking washers on the right at ACE Hardware
this is for the anti sway bar, I usually don't like using the gold stuff on my vehicles but since this aint going to live in the engine bay I think it beats cleaning those old bolts by the way do any of youz know if the cad plated "gold" bolts are better than stainless in terms of rust resistance? |
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man I am pretty proud of myself when it comes to this project
mandatory before and after shots |
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and some close ups for those in the cheap seats
I gotta ask: Do it matter which way the open ends of the rubber bushings go/face ie towards the front? or the back of the vehicle? |
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On a 2wd truck that is lowered the stiffer you can be the better the road handling is. Rubber is fine but requires replacement more often than poly.
One thing your new bushings do not have is grease nipples to keep them working and being supple. Regarding the slit no it does not matter and just becomes preference. |
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Grade 8 hardware has 50% more tensile strength than stainless steel hardware. Grade 5 hardware has 20% more tensile strength than stainless steel hardware. No comparison. Stainless steel hardware sounds good at first blush, but you probably don't want to go there. |
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Slippery Grip Garage was closed yesterday on the account of it being 104° F
so we opened early today at 0600 and installed the new purple(ish) 43 tooth driven speedo gear and that little baby seal we put some white lightning grease on the shaft of that gear and around the big rubber O-ring we also topped off the transmission with some Red Wine (ha ha) Good News: now our odometer is only .1 off for every 6 miles we drive, good enuff fer now, IT'S A TRUCK! |
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time for Doo Dadz, I don't know about you, but I like doing finishing touches like this, makes things look complete, makes it look like it was meant to be
we ended up using one 3/8" and one 1/2" |
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a little WD-40 on your pinky finger and lubbed up the inside for better slideability
heater core? what heater core? now no one will even be able to tell it was ever there, ha ha |
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Passivated 304 & 316 stainless, either by oxidizing in an air furnace or treating the surface with an acid to cause an oxide to form, is much better at resisting galling but is also more expensive. |
Re: Restoring Rusty
Monday, drove the truck in to work today! Great feeling guys I'm sure you all can relate after pulling off a big project. Truck runs strong, windows down, wind in my face, its going to be hot driving back home this afternoon, but the morning drive was glorious.
Speedo is spot on up to 50 MPH than deviates slightly and is about 5 MPH off by the time I'm doing 75 MPH on the highway, maybe tire pressure and a different tire size can dial it in further, but for now it will do, most of my driving aint on the freeway anyways Ordered a new rear window seal from Classic Parts (love their printed catalog, yes I'm old school and it makes for a great toilet read, ha ha, also it aint got no salt & pepper shakers nor bunch of "universal" parts, nothing but essentials, plus its all in COLOR cause it's 2016. - I'm looking at you LMC Truck) hope to install that tinted slider window next. |
Re: Restoring Rusty
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went out and bought a Mr. Gasket inline fuel pressure guage at AutoZone, wanted to see what my current fuel pump is delivering before I replace it (on the suspision that that's where the ticking noise is coming from)
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since they didn't have a single piece T with two 5/16 hose ends, I had to get these fittings
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got it all installed and learned that an inline fuel pressure gauge with a mechanical fuel pump jumps around constantly as the car is runnin' so it aint much use, I did turn the car off and ran and took a pic before the gauge fully dropped, here it is a few PSI lower than when its running
Pic 1 - truck off, just showing you the gauge installed Pic 2 - right after I shut it off and captured some pressure |
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That's about right for a stock pump, usually just under 6 psi. Performance pumps can be 7-9 psi.
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here I made a video of it, please take a looksee Mr. Gasket Inline Fuel Pressure Gauge in Action Video |
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It's ~averaging~ 6psi.
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I thought on edelbrock carbs they were happier around the 4-5 psi marking or they could flood themselves?
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