Re: Restoring Rusty
 

time to clean both heads, from start to finish... a little under an hour, hey I think I finally got a hang of this

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

but just to be sure (and since we already spent money on the SPOTCHECK) we shall Aexon Flux these guys...

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

scratch that I mean Magnaflux those guys

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Re: Restoring Rusty
 

so DIY Magnafluxing confirms no cracks in the Driver Side Vortec J 16 9 cylinder head

honestly I am still trying to get used to using this product, I've gotten better, in terms of creating less of a red mess, but I can still do a better job of wiping off the red dye before shooting the white developer

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

That looks like a K47 filter box for the AC1300C round filters. If it is... it's the best stock GMT400 Turbo Diesel filter GM made. There are people looking for those. They were also used on several Vortec motors. The box and fender mount is good barter material. Most yard trolls don't know that the Gasoline K47 airboxes can be used on the diesels. To them it's just an air filter housing. Don't educate them.

They flow very to extremely well without letting dirt through like the K&N oiled cotton filters.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

DIY Magnafluxing also confirms no cracks in the Passanger Side Vortec J 16 9 cylinder head

there, did a better job of using this product, finally, hope its the last head I have to use it on, ha ha

did I mention, I am in love with these heads!

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someone asked me how do you clean the Magnaflux stuff off, well after it turns white, it becomes a sort of powder and I just use a brush to brush it off, comes off like chalk dust, then you could just go back to the SPOTCHECK cleaner and whipe them off, I assume this stuff is harmless and won't harm the metal, not sure what it do if/when it was to mix with engine oil

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alright on to Phase 3 of Head Inspection

What on Earth is this guy up to now?

so we glue the 1000 fine grit paper to a nice flat solid (no flex) board of some sorts

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Hey I resemble that remark! I took it off and tossed it out of the way in the back of that Suburban, ha ha (at least I didn't just drop it on the gravel, I'm civilized after all)

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we will be testing the heads to see if they are warped or if the surface is true in three different ways

1. use a metal straight edge and once again our trusty handy dandy flashlight, turn off some lights in your state of the art facility and see if the light of the flashlight will shine through underneath the strait edge while holding it flat on the cylinder head (this is not a perfect science) also not ideal in all areas of the surface only the ones solid underneath

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2. use a metal straight edge and a feeler gauge and see what's the largest gauge you can slide under there, in the pic I was trying a .010 (10 thousandths of an inch) and no dice, actually I couldn't even slide in the thinnest one in the bunch - and that is good, move the straight edge around the head and try it in many different places

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3. I make sure the head is level and using fine sand paper afixed to a flat board gently, under its own weight glide the sand paper board over the cylinderhead surface, remove board and see where contact has been made, the shinny spots are the high points,

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you should get an even shine, my driver side head looks good as the same machining marks are highlighted through out all four chambers

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you don't want your surface of the heads to smooth but you also don't want them to rough either.

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Actually you want them smooth. That is a terrible surface finish for a cylinder head. Factory was the worst for surface finish. The MLS (Multi Layer Steel) gaskets that are on everything now require a very smooth finish. There are actually meters that measure the Ra finish on a surface. A standard fel-pro gasket can handle a little rougher finish but you should have it smoother then that.

One other thing you need to think of. While you can't fit a feeler gauge under any part of the head you still have the highs and lows of that finish that a feeler gauge is not getting to. The minimum warp we tolerate is .003, but we have seen where we can measure .003 it would take almost double that just to get it to clean up.

Ok back to the story, this is entertaining. Congrats on a good set.

Oh one other thing. The process you are using is called DYE-CHECKING.
Magnufluxing would actually have a magnet used to detect a crack. Dye-check is used more for aluminum, But it has fallen by the waste side as it has not been a reliable source for shops to depend on. A wet mag is used to check cranks, rods, and there parts were the powder mag would not pic up or be reliable enough to get into the areas of stress. A dry mag is what we see on blocks and cylinder heads that are iron. The most for sure way to make sure there are no cracks to a water jacket is to pressure check.

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I keep looking at one of the heads and see that a spot in the water jacket that looks like it is eroded out or ground out. Its on the spark plug side of the head, a middle cylinder. compare all the water jackets and you will see it. Its a round area. My concern is that area is getting very close to the fire ring of the gasket. Trust me on this when I say that is not good. shoot a picture if you can. maybe its just an illusion to me but all the pics look the same. I just can't see the impression of the fire ring.

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If it is what it looks like I'd go back and get it along with the mounting bracket. It should've had a round filter inside jammed over the end of a plastic elbow.
Guys ask $60 for just the housing.
You can sell it on evilbay or to someone here or on the Dieselplace forums. They flow better than any other factory airbox/filter for the 6.5L Turbo Diesel.
If you want a real good Cold Air Intake filter that won't flow just as much dirt as air get it for your truck. NAPA (WIX) and Fram equivalents to the AC1300C are around $24. Yes Fram makes very good air filters. I'm not so keen on their oil filters but their air filters are top shelf.

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I've been on the hunt for that style air filter maybe we could work out a deal greg

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I didn't see that one coming. I figured you'd regroup and buy a new set. Congrats on getting some good ones. Can you return the cracked heads? Something you said earlier made me think you were stuck with them but not sure.

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Thanks, I am happy

The first pair I bought last October. Turns out both heads are cracked. They only allow you to return them for 30 days. Well I didn't get around to inspecting them in time, so now I can only return them for a core charge of $5.00 bucks each, I'll take it, ha ha

Then I bought the single head which is good, but I no longer need it, so I may take it back or sell it on Craigslist, not sure yet.

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I just wanted to check back on this thread and say I read it from start to finish, and it encouraged me to join the forum. (that and my own project)

It was this thread that I learned of POR 15, and I recently used it on my truck with great results, although its been two weeks and its still hasn't come off my arm yet...

Greg takes a lot of great pictures and his commentary is generally witty and hilarious.

If you want a great thread, be like Greg.

Also, nice truck.

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WOW Will Thank you so much for the kind words, I appreciate the nice feedback very much.

Ha ha, been there done that and a whole lot worse, lets just say Nature called.

TWO WORDS: Denatured Alcohol

get it at Home Depot for $5.00 bucks use it to wash your hands, it works!

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You trying to rain on my parade Stu? jk I don't see nothin' looks blurry to me, ha ha

seriously looks like maybe a casting imperfection that survived 134,000 miles, there is plenty of meat behind it, but its just black and not shinny, I took a flat file to it to grind down the sharp edges a bit, I think it will be ok

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another $20 in the trash

but oh well she's cleaned two heads (ok 5) lol