Re: Restoring Rusty
 

I is tired so here are some random pics - push rods and lifters soaking in the Special Sauce!

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

spent about 45 minutes per side chasing the threads in the 17 head bolts per side

since I didn't trust my cheapie tap or chaser what ever it is called, heck there may be even a difference, I just decided to clean an old bolt or two very well with a wire wheel and using mineral spirits so that I wouldn't go in dry I cleaned up all the holes until I could screw in a bolt by hand and unscrew it by hand

clean threads are important because these bad boys will be torques down to spec and we don't want the heads a warpin'

Fun level - 5.8

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Plug it

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

This beats the hell out of basketball.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

AMEN brotha! next time could you summarize what you are going to say and not ramble on and on like that, jk, LOL

thanks again

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

ha ha, yup

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

You don't have AC so you may want the option of running the defroster to clear fog off the glass on a spring or winter evening when the air is damp.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

yup, pretty much, plus The Greg don't like cluttered engine bays

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

aint that what my long sleeves are for, but you're right, there will be a morning when I will regret it and wish I had heat

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Run copper hard lines with hoses at the ends. Bead the ends to keep the hoses on.
Maybe;
1 along the frame from the water pump hose to up under the heater box.
1 along the intake to the back of the engine... Or maybe both.
1 possibly 2 along the firewall close to the back of the engine.
Copper can be soldered side by side with a slight bump up at the ends to allow two hoses with clamps side by side.
You can buy formed 90° & 45° heater hoses.

Polished copper could look interesting. Or you could paint em to make them blend.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Ladies and Gentlemen, today is literally The Greg's wifes birthday, needless to say the garage is off limits, so lets keep this on the downlow shall we, cause if she was to find out she would kill me, but I know in my heart of hearts that if she found out that I was about to try to prime my newly re assembly Chebby with a home made distributor stir stick with the cam gear still on it, she would be even more upset, so what I am trying to say here, in a round and about way, we are doing this here modification for her, wouldn't you agree, it's essentially damn if I do, damn if I don't situtation

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Have fun preoiling.. It takes time a damn good drill.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Nice. :thumbs:

Don't let SWMBO catch ya.:devil:

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

A caution. You got two valve cover breathers, and you like clean engine bays...

HOWEVER

... you *need* a PCV valve on one valve cover. Blow-by puts exhaust gasses in the crankcase. You can either suck them out with a PCV valve, or you can let them condense in the crankcase, in which case they will soon sludge up all the internals on your new engine. Even after 10,000 miles, you can see a huge difference on the internals of an engine with a PCV valve and one without.

You can put it on the passenger-side valve cover, which would put it in the back, and connect it with a short hose to the back of the intake manifold or carb.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Yea, I just went through this. I was going to do two breathers but after a fair amount of reading decided PCV really is helpful and can extend engine life.

Then the mystery of what PVC to buy...Fram makes a variety of them, but its near impossible to find the specs on them. There's a company that makes a really nice one, but $130 for a PCV is pretty steep for me: http://mewagner.com/?page_id=444

I decided to just go with one of these from Summit: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-440308/

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Sir you have finally convinced me, The Greg will run a PCV valve from the valve cover to the base of the carb! ha ha

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Re: Restoring Rusty
 

GM Chevrolet Performance Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshaft, Part Number 24502476


Old Cam Lobe Lift - - - - - New Cam Lobe Lift
.260" / .273" - - - - - - - - - - - .290" / .307"



Old Cam Valve Lift - - - - - New Cam Valve Lift

.390" / .410" - - - - - - - - - - - .435" / .460"

... and after a liberal amount of assembly lube, the turkey went in the oven, (no cam bearings were harmed during this operation)

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

got the timing set on and the timing marks aligned properly

then the timing cover went on, we used spray on adhesive on both sides of the paper thin timing cover gasket for good measure

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

the nice thick Fel-Pro oil pan gasket went on next with smigeons of Ultra Black RTV gasket maker in the corners and in the half circle valleys in the front and rear of the pan

Fun Level so far = 11.6

Remember: not all the oil pan bolts get torqued down the same way the 4 corner ones are more bigger, lol

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

then we flipped her over right side up again and slid in the properly lubed up with assembly lube hydraulic flat tapped lifters

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

the heads wen ton next and were properly torqued down to 65 ft lbs in three phases

Phase 1 - 20 ft lbs

Phase 2 - 40 ft lbs

Phase 3 - 65 ft lbs

here's a looksie from both the front and the back of the motor

Fun Level temporarily dipped to 10.7 (LOL) as the engine stand wanted to slide all over the garage floor under such high torque, lol

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

then when a push came to shove it was time to drop in the push rods