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Zinc additive is $5 per oil change. Not a biggie. On the connecting rod bearing, yeah, I would go a couple thousandths over. |
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They make .001 bearings as well as .002. See if your local parts store has some plastigauge so you can check things out, I would rather be a tad loose than too tight.
The bearings do not appear to be worn much. When you see copper, they are worn. |
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went ahead and bought just a standard size bearing, for like $4.00 bucks
man where will I get my bearings when Trump builds that wall (kidding folks, don't get all political on me, let's just make this truck great again!) |
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you know the drill, time for a stare and compare
old bearing and new bearing [mini rant] I don't know about you, but I struggle to view these things as bearings, to me a bearing has balls in it, you know what I'm saying, these there things are like shims to me, I just can't wrap my small mind around the concept thats all [/mini rant] |
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That really sucks. I hope replacing the bearing helps. Seems I've never heard my old truck not tick somewhere. Lol. My toaster(daily) is just too quiet. But it does have AC.
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well, so I replaced the #4 con rod bearing, did that make the engine ticking noise go away?
NO my goodness, what is up with Rusty? so I parked it on the street and started drinkin' |
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Keep in mind the cam turns at half the speed as the crank so a piston or rod noise would be twice as fast as a valvetrain related noise.
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Wrist pins maybe?
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Did you Plastigage #4? That would have been a quick way to rule out or condemn the rod bearing.
I still maintain it's a piston problem; I'm with peabobble. |
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Gentlemen, could it still be the exhaust header even if the noise goes away when I unplug the spark plug wire on #4?
I am tempted to pull the headers off (at least on that side) and bolt up my old manifolds and see what that does, but if you think its a waste of time knowing that there is no noise with #4 plug disconnected than let me know. |
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You won't likely feel any up and down play - you need the piston out, and try to rock them.... um... like, rock the piston down while you rock the con rod up - kind of feeling if the wrist pin hole is elongated.
Assuming a piston skirt or ring isn't broken. |
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Oh. Exhaust leak....... Interesting.
Can you give a listen with a stethoscope or long screwdriver, and see if the sound is coming from the BLOCK, or from the HEADER TUBE. Sometimes header tubes make a ticking sound, just the speed of the gasses hitting the corner of the tube or something. |
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The stethoscope and the long screw driver let us hear the internals of the engine but thats not the ticking sound, also there is no tapping sound from the distributor, no sound from the fuel pump, no sound from the starter, no sound from the exhaust manifold, its so bizarre actually drove the truck with #4 spark plug unplugged to show my buddy and man the truck sounds so smooth without it, I just wish I had a V8 and not a V7, lol |
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well seems like this dude on YouTube has the same problem, and of course the video is abandoned and we don't know what it was or how he fixed it
Piston Slap, Spun Bearings, Valve Lash, Engine Noise Diagnostics 02 Engine Noise Diagnostics |
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Man I wish I tested my pistons like this guy is doing in this video when I had my engine out and the cylinder heads out, check it out and tell me what you think
5.3 LM7 Piston Rock aka Piston Slap |
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This isn't an LS motor or even a Vortec smallblock like you liberated the heads from. Tolerances were pretty loose on the earlier Gen I smallblocks.
Look in the 1974 service manual. The '70s GM engines were intended to be run on 10W40 and even 20W50 motor oil except at fairly low temperatures. The chart in the 1974 GM service manual says to run 5W30 if the outdoor temps range from less than -30°F to 60°F max. That same chart says to run 20W50 between 20°F to over 100°F. Sacramento averages 60°F year round... For Sacramento to get below 20°F would mean the apocalypse is fast approaching. Try swapping to a higher SAE weight oil... Running a good synthetic 20W50 should quiet her down and it will not hurt a thing to use year round. If it's a loose wrist pin it won't change a thing. |
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yesterday we put brand new 20W-50 engine oil in with a brand new oil filter, the Lucas zinc additive and added the Lucas HEAVY DUTY oil stabilizer, our ratio is extreme for testing purposes of 2 quarts Lucas and 3 quarts oil, its really thick on purpose right now to see if it will quiet down the noise, and it does NOT |
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Well, well, well, what do we have here?
Could that be numero quatro? |
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You need some 1444 Felpro's
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o l |
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They fit the Vortec exhaust ports perfectly. They are the only kind that I have used that I would recommend. They are great gaskets with metal reinforcement. |
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Just finished reading the whole thing. So glad it's just a gasket. You've done such wonderful work. I can't wait for my kids to get a little older to give me some more time to work on my stuff.
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so lets get you updated Greggie style
hello old friend |
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the goal for today was to replace the headers with manifolds (or at least on the problem side) and although we thought we found the smoking gun (pun?) we did not want to change horses midstream sorta speak
so first we had to knock the ugly off that log 7 minutes with the death wheel and she was naked, and I'll be lying to you all if I didn't tell you that I considered grinding her nice and smooth for a minute, but then I went and got a beer instead |
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although I went a lookin' for somethin' fancier than these trusty ol three piece Felpro gaskets I didn't find nothing better, and they've been good to me in the past
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On in 90 Seconds
I kid you not brothers and sisters, manifolds are sooooo easy to work with, but you already know that, so I must admit: headers are a young mens' sport. |
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quit drawing this out, did going back to manifolds get rid of your engine ticking sound or not?
Hewk yeah it did, NMFT! No More Frustrating Ticking |
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so there was no more ticking sound but the truck sure did sound funny with headers and a Flowmaster on one side and an exhaust manifold and a Turbo muffler on the other, there sure is a difference in sound between the two sides that's fer sure, and I won't tell you I may could have liked the sound on the manifold side, since I must justify my header expenditure, ha ha
so back to the parts house I went looking for some crusher gaskets, only to come away with these beauties that set me back $35 bones how in the world they is reusable I'll never know so did I put them on? Um no! wait what? I wanted to put them on, but those Felpro manifold gaskets were stuck to the enjin block and I didn't feel like scraping brand new gaskits off, then and there, so I said what the hewk lets give them a go with these them headers, and guess what they worked beautifully, SNMFT - Still No More Frustrating Ticking so overall it was a good day, I fixed my truck, and my countrymen beat North Ireland in an Euro Cup 2016 match, what? you don't pretend to be a soccer fan every 4 years weather you need to or not? |
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Wait a minute...
Houston... we have a problem! The engine runs so smooth now I can hear the PCV valve ratlin'!!! ha ha ha, no for real |
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Good job, I bet you're exhausted!
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http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1465770796
Looks like a gasket problem, not a header problem. Round port gaskets may have corrected that leak. |
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