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That's sad. What good is a reman no one can really use? Good luck, Gregski.
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Always fun.
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decided to take the steering gear box off, but cant get the pitman arm off the knuckle, can I use a pickle fork on it?
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That is just one of the many reasons I do NOT buy hard parts from O'Reilly's.
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I remove my Pittman arms with a good 2 or 3 lb sledge hammer. A couple of good strikes will release it once the nut is off. Like tie rods ends the Pittman arm to shaft is a taper fit. |
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ok, well lets get us up to speed on the damage that The Greg has done today, since NAPA had the same crudy pump as Oh Reallys, (they said it's made by BBB Enterprises, that don't sound shady at all) I ordered one from CarQuest (pronounced expensive)
so as I waited for the new(er) pump to arrive I decided to stay busy what to do, what to do? I know off with the inner fender |
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those of you who have been with me and Rusty since day uno, know that The Greg likes his inner fenders not black but the color of the vehicle, so this one is going to get treated to a coat of green on it's back and some undercoating on it's belly, but first he'll need a bath, stay tuned
oh by the way, stripped/broken bolt count = 0 |
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now where were we, oh yes, trying to remove the steering gear box, so since The Greg is a one clown circus he has to improvise so he used his boy scout knot tying skills and fabed this Russian crane hoist
you twist the smaller 2x4 on top and it lifts the part you are trying to lift, genius I tell you |
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with the steering box literally hanging in the balance I still could not get that darn pitman arm off, yes I tried using gentle persuasion aka my 3 lbs sledge, no go, tried PB Blaster, wedged and broke a large screw driver in there too
I felt as if it was me vs 40 years of stick-to-it-a-vness |
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Wow, you got all those bolts out without breaking any? I'm impressed.
Now, I have something else for you to do. In the picture that shows the master cylinder well, I can see some wires that have blue butt-splices. Those things suck for long term connection quality, but they are quick to put on. I'd take advantage of the great access you have to those wires right now to fix those. In my experience, with automotive wiring, there's no substitute for soldered connections with heat shrink tubing over the joint. They last forever. Nothing is more frustrating than unreliable wiring. |
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so off to AZ, to pick up some "specialty" tools
got a fork and a pitman arm puller, the actual pitman arm proved to be useless, LOL the fork on the other hand got her done! |
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Wait a minute on the steering box. It's far easier to release the tapered joint at the other end of the pitman arm with a pickle fork. Unless, of course, you're looking to replace the pitman arm.
The way to get the pitman arm off is with a puller. You apply a fair bit of tension with the puller, and the tap the pitman arm from the side with a hammer. The puller alone won't do it, at least in my experience. |
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ok, so let's see that hunk of junk out in the open
FYI the only thing heavier than this steering box on the truck so far be the Muncie gear box, hee hee |
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then I spent the next two hours transferring the dirt, grime, grease, and rust off of the steering box and onto myself
she aint perfect, but definitely more better... I would clean her some more [big lie] but I have to go pick up the new(er) pump from CarQuest |
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the 3 lb sledge method only works if the box is still mounted to the frame. I highly doubt the arm will give it up on the floor. Just an observation but it looks like the nut is still on and tight. the nut has to be off or damn near off. The fun begins trying to hold that heavy box up and start a bolt or two.
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what gets me is how this massive 3 ton steering box connects to the steering shaft, via a rubber disc the size of your grandmas coffee table coasters, exactly three of them stacked together???
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I did once get the pitman arm nut off with a pipe wrench with a length of pipe over the handle. I think the tighten torque is something like 160 ft-lbs, so you know it'll be tougher still to get it off. |
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I'm guessing you've seen this, but just in case you haven't Tx Firefighter did a great how-to on fixing a leaky steering box here: LINK.
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Just be glad you don't have to remove the actual steering arm. Those tapered cone washers are hell!
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I worried about how to get my new gear box lined up with the pitman arm and the steering wheel/column.
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I don't notice any vibrations just a very positive steering system where I can feel somewhat where the tires are and going through. |
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so picked up my $40 dollar power steering pump for $80 bucks from Carquest, LOL maybe the extra $40 bucks is for the pink blanket it comes with, hee hee
for $80 bucks you think they could afford to put a picture of the actual contents on the box instead of some generic pump photo I'm pretty sure this is no better than what I got from OReilly's but we'll see, I think some of these parts come from the same source, that's why the resellers rebrand them as their own, Autozone, O'Reillys, NAPA, Carquest, PepBoys I would prefer to see the manufacturers logo on the box, but then we could compare apples to apples price wise, and the resellers don't want that [end of rant] |
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so started wire wheelin the frame rail and a bit under the cab in preparation for POR15, not fun, ended up removing the front bumper, again for better access
tomorrow I should paint it black with POR15 to match the other side |
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by the way por 15 doesnt stick as well to bare metal compared to to rusted. from what ive seen, just a quick one over to remove loose rust will work best.
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My compliments on your progress as usual and your meticulous approach is a inspiration to all of us, and i wish i had the knowledge to help you with some of your problems but all i have is a tip for you.
I have a Portable Abrasive Blaster Kit it's old and from sears but has saved me a ton of time when cleaning up parts I've seen them at harbor freight for $40 the trick is to capture the media as you use it and just reuse it. |
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