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I use it on Spark Plug threads and on wheel lugs. Be aware that torque specs in your service manuals are DRY not lubricated. Torques need to be derated for anti-seize lubricated nuts and bolts. Permatex has charts for this. |
Re: Restoring Rusty
Yes, use it on exhaust manifold/header bolts, collector bolts, spark plug threads, and especially any bolts threaded into your aluminum intake, thermostat housing bolts for example.
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You WILL be sorry if you don't replace all of the freeze plugs!!! They will let loose at the most inopportune time leaving you stranded or worse over heating your engine cracking your new heads. It's not worth it for a few bucks!!!
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picked up some white vinegar on the way home from work today and decided to use it to flush out the block from all the coolant rust, not sure if it was worth the $3.00 dollar investment, used boiling hot water and vinegar to do so
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used painters tape to block off the cylinders to prevent vinegar and or water from splashing down upon them, then I was super careful
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all in all, it was pretty much an all to do about nothing type a day, I worked my butt off but had not much to show for it
I cleaned bolts and washers and more bolts 1. oil pan bolts 2. timing cover bolts 3. water pump bolts 4. intake manifold bolts 5. valve cover bolts 6. crank gear bolts 7. fan bolts 8. fly wheel bolts 9. pressure plate bolts 10. bell housing bolts I cleaned the oil pan, it may need a little touch up paint I cleaned the timing cover, its ready for paint and a new seal I Mickey Moused with the thermostat gasket on the new Vortec intake manifold with a razor blade, until no one was looking, then I called in the heavy artillery trying to decide weather I clear this thing or paint it Cast Iron to match the heads and the block, its pourous and a pain to clean, I can only imagine it being a dirt and grime magnet in the truck hey I cleaned my workbench.... again |
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So the plan is to put the engine back together on Saturday (that's 4 days from now), the original plan for March Madness was to have the engine back in the truck by then ie all in one month, but then I had my set back(s) with the Vortec heads, so I'm sure you'll forgive me for falling behind
so here's what's left to do in the crunch time 0. chase / tap all the bolt holes in the blockI don't want to rush, but at the same time I don't want this engine sitting in two dozen pieces for eternity, I'm sure you know what I mean. Though I work hard and do the best that I can, at 43 I learned that I rather have something completed at 80% quality, than strive for 100% perfection and never complete it! |
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saw this Lucas Engine Break-In oil Zinc additive at AutoZone today while buying new belts, seems like they don't carry engine break in oil any more, neither does Oh'Reallys
The GM Start-up and Break-in Procedures, Specifications 19210008 only say use 10w30 motor oil (non-synthetic) and nothing about Zinc |
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Keep in mind though if this were a full rebuild you would want some straight 30 weight to help seat rings on first start up and to reduce initial bearing wear. "Steps off soap box" |
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Not sure if its available in the US but up here in the great north we have a company who makes specialized oil for old vehicles and bikes. It is a 10w40 oil which is good for most cars and motorcycles but it contains large amounts of ZDDP to help the wiping of critical engine components.
http://www.camoils.com/ |
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Joe gibbs have a good brake in oil,is it not sold in Cal.?
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All flat tappet cam engines need ZDDP oils, I use Royal Purple HPS 10W 30 in mine.
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Brad Penn break in oil is what I'm using. Supposed to have the required ZDDP from what I've read and I've read A LOT on it.....
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I will 3rd the Rotella. That is what I used for the engine in the Jeep last year.
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I've been running synth since after break-in. Mobil1 10W30 with half a bottle of this added each oil change.
Amazon.com: ZDDPPlus ZDDP Engine Oil Additive... |
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So I made a call to the GM machine and hopefully the right people will be contacted on the issue :chevy: "steps down drops mic" :lol: |
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now I also heard you don't want to use a multi weight oil for the break in but should run a 30 weight instead, The Greg's head is about to explode
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Well your only breaking in the came so its not as "crucial" I have heard of guys with good success doing none straight weight 30 in a tight spot with fair results but I have never messed with it as I have always had it available and never have seen a need to risk it I found an alternative for you by the way greg if this one does "blow up" due to my attempted help
GM part number 19201333 I will cut you a deal buddy :lol: |
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