Re: Restoring Rusty
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ladies and gentlement... The Digital Cambermatic 3000
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and here it is in action
Driver side has 1.20° of Negative Camber which is OK(ish) Texter side has 2.10° of Negative Camber which is Too Much however now at least we know in degrees how much out of whack we are Note: I believe back in the day the Manuals for these 60s and 70s vehicles read something like +1° or -1° of camber was acceptable, which is redunculous, you go ahead and set your driver side wheel to -1° and your passenger side to +1° and I'll meet you at the telephone pole |
Re: Restoring Rusty
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so it was time to bust out the shims, and when it comes to Camber, don't over think things, first if you struggle with remembering which is Negative camber and which is Positive camber, just remember In and Out as in the top of the wheels lean In or the top of the wheels lean Out
and just use the alphabet trick N in Negative comes before P in Positive just as I in In comes before O in Out You're welcome |
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remember we are focusing just on the passenger side, so here is what the current shimming situation looks like
and if all you are doing is addressing the Camber then always add or remove the same amount of shims to both the front and the back of the upper control arm Note: there are more shims in the back of the upper control arm that is to set Positive Caster a topic for another day |
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some shims come with a little hole in them mine did not, now they do
this makes it zip tie friendly and keeps the profanity down to a minimum |
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mandatory stare and compare of the ol' analog Cambermatic 300 and the new and improved digital Cambermatic 3000 shown with the Pro Plus option second magnetic level attachment used to ensure verticability
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so adding two shims to front and back of the upper control arm got me in the OK(ish) ballpark with the same negative camber on both sides, I may revisit both sides after some shake down driving and see if I can get them both slightly under -1°
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it's that time of year again...
Annual Seat Sale! |
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Oooh! :metal:
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You're right!!
I cant wait for a Gregski install write up on these!! |
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http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...&postcount=525 |
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"you go ahead and set your driver side wheel to -1° and your passenger side to +1° and I'll meet you at the telephone pole"
Hahaha, good call. I like the tool you made and your process. Is Rusty getting some new shoes? I couldn't help but notice some white raised letters - well, blue at the moment. |
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the blue high heels in the pic were from my '54 they came off the front cause they were to wide at 245 micronmeters so I went with 215s |
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Someone has been quite busy lately.
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Finally it was time to replace them shift solenoids
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Make sure the internal harness isn't leaking fluid around the pins through the connector.
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so this is where the solenoids live, I know it's upside down, but better than nothing
the one on the left (driver side) is the 1-2 and the one on the right (passenger side) is the 2-3 but they are both identical same part number |
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yes this transmission has a drain plug and yes the P.O. (pronounced: "guy who had it before me") tightened it as hard as she could plus a quarter turn, and stripped the head of the bolt so that I had no chance of getting it out
but since this was my first gear box with a drain plug I was determined to have one that works, even if it took me 3.5 hours to get it out |
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so the first test I did (right or wrong) was the Click Test, basically you hook up a solenoid to a car battery and listen to see if it clicks
the 1-2 solenoid had a loud(er) click than the 2-3 one so I think that's the one we are trying to replace |
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the second test and the more official one was the Horse Shoe Test
this is where we put our Multimeter on the horse shoe icon and check for The Reistance the 1-2 solenoid measured at 23.1 ohmsboth seemed within range, remember if you know nothing but have two of something, compare them then here's how the new ones tested the new 1-2 solenoid measured 25.6 ohms |
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