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-   -   Restoring Rusty (https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=645440)

rich weyand 03-01-2015 06:20 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by greg64 (Post 7071612)
Looks way better! I used the exact same kit from LMC for my doors. Old stuff had gone bad the same as yours. While I had the door apart, I also put sound deadening in the outside door skin. Helped a lot with road noise.

What kind of sound deadening did you use?

Gregski 03-01-2015 06:21 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by greg64 (Post 7071612)
Looks way better! I used the exact same kit from LMC for my doors. Old stuff had gone bad the same as yours. While I had the door apart, I also put sound deadening in the outside door skin. Helped a lot with road noise.

Greg should we talk or are you just going to read my mind directly, LOL, jk

Jake Wade 03-01-2015 07:14 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
What's next on the to do list?

rusty76 03-01-2015 07:14 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
Everything looks great. You've done real good.

Gregski 03-01-2015 07:23 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
1 Attachment(s)
anybody know if this thing in the door/window scissor track is round or oval, should it slide or rotate like a wheel, mine doesn't

Gregski 03-01-2015 07:24 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
2 Attachment(s)
and the other side, done

Jake Wade 03-01-2015 07:40 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
How did the new clutch feel? Should be easier on the leg.

Gregski 03-01-2015 08:20 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by LSX408 (Post 7071596)
Looks great! Nice work!

Thanks LSX I appreciate that.

Gregski 03-01-2015 08:21 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Jake Wade (Post 7071598)
Looks really nice, keep up the good work!

Thank you Jake, I got lots of help on this forum.

Gregski 03-01-2015 08:24 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by Jake Wade (Post 7071717)
What's next on the to do list?

What ever it is it won't require crawling under the truck or bench pressing 800 lbs. LOL

Seriously, you ever heard that expression, "Man plans and God laughs"?

Well, I had plans, I wanted to install that '78 gauge cluster I scored on eBay with a tachometer, volt meter, and electronic oil pressure gauge, but Rusty showed me he has other plans...

Gregski 03-01-2015 08:26 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by rusty76 (Post 7071719)
Everything looks great. You've done real good.

Thank you, couldn't have done it without all you guys, the encouragement and the know how you shared and continue to teach me, much appreciated.

Gregski 03-01-2015 08:28 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Jake Wade (Post 7071755)
How did the new clutch feel? Should be easier on the leg.

You know what Jake, it doesn't feel that much different, but maybe I got something too tight in there, I will crawl under it one more time tonight and adjust it according to the manual.

Do you know how to adjust the clutch pedal height so I don't knee myself in the jaw every time I try to change gears? LOL, or is it not possible because of the set height vertical push rod?

rich weyand 03-01-2015 09:56 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Gregski (Post 7071818)
What ever it is it won't require crawling under the truck or bench pressing 800 lbs. LOL

Seriously, you ever heard that expression, "Man plans and God laughs"?

Well, I had plans, I wanted to install that '78 gauge cluster I scored on eBay with a tachometer, volt meter, and electronic oil pressure gauge, but Rusty showed me he has other plans...

Oops.

Titomars 03-01-2015 10:12 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Gregski (Post 7071818)
What ever it is it won't require crawling under the truck or bench pressing 800 lbs. LOL

Seriously, you ever heard that expression, "Man plans and God laughs"?

Well, I had plans, I wanted to install that '78 gauge cluster I scored on eBay with a tachometer, volt meter, and electronic oil pressure gauge, but Rusty showed me he has other plans...

Opps I guess you need to check those wheel cylinders now. ;) by the way enjoying your thread and watching all the good work. Do you want to come clean and paint parts for me? hehehe :lol:

Titomars 03-01-2015 10:16 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Gregski (Post 7071728)
anybody know if this thing in the door/window scissor track is round or oval, should it slide or rotate like a wheel, mine doesn't

They are called rollers and yes they should turn. but seldom do after all these years. At least there should be a good coating of grease on the track and roller. That is a good place to make use of that lubriplate. I myself just use white grease.

68Timber 03-01-2015 10:52 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
Nice work, Gregski - it's always fun to watch someone work fast and do it right!

y5mgisi 03-01-2015 11:27 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
Good job on everything!

Chaplain 03-02-2015 12:46 AM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
Nice update. This kind of progress is contagious.

greg64 03-02-2015 11:20 AM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by rich weyand (Post 7071635)
What kind of sound deadening did you use?

Rich, I used Hushmat in the doors, primarily because that's what my local shop had. I also did the firewall and back of the cab. I was surprised by how much effect the back of the cab had. I had figured that "there's this thick seat in front of it, how much could it do?".

If you crank the window all the way up, there's enough room to get the stuff in through the large opening and affix it to the outside door skin.

greg64 03-02-2015 11:21 AM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Gregski (Post 7071728)
anybody know if this thing in the door/window scissor track is round or oval, should it slide or rotate like a wheel, mine doesn't

It is round and it should rotate around the axle.

greg64 03-02-2015 11:25 AM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Gregski (Post 7071818)
What ever it is it won't require crawling under the truck or bench pressing 800 lbs. LOL

Seriously, you ever heard that expression, "Man plans and God laughs"?

Well, I had plans, I wanted to install that '78 gauge cluster I scored on eBay with a tachometer, volt meter, and electronic oil pressure gauge, but Rusty showed me he has other plans...

Greg, the reservoir area that is empty is for the *rear* brakes. It might be worth checking the hydraulic line running to the back, because screwing around with that transmission crossmember may have caused the leak. If it's not there, look at the flex line connected to the axle, and finally the wheel cylinders.

By the way, do you have compressed air?

Gregski 03-02-2015 10:20 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
2 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by greg64 (Post 7072653)
Greg, the reservoir area that is empty is for the *rear* brakes. It might be worth checking the hydraulic line running to the back, because screwing around with that transmission crossmember may have caused the leak. If it's not there, look at the flex line connected to the axle, and finally the wheel cylinders.

Thanks Greg, I want to let you know that prior to the repair from time to time I would notice the master brake cylinder itself looked wet like this, does this tell us anything? I thought it was leaking from the lid cause maybe it was too full, but it was not over full.

Gregski 03-02-2015 10:28 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
3 Attachment(s)
found the contact spot on that fly wheel inspection dust cover, one swift love tap with the 3 lbs sledge and she rubbed no more

last pic is what it was rubbing against, the end of the crank shaft which is not exactly round but that weird shape

Gregski 03-02-2015 10:38 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty - Speedometer Cable
 
5 Attachment(s)
before putting the turtle shell back on the transmission tunnel I decided I should replace the speedometer cable since the end that screws on to the transmission had stripped threads

I think you do not have to even remove the speedometer from the gauge cluster to do it, you can just reach around the back and snap the cable out but I forgot so I removed the speedo, it was easier since I don't have a dash pad on at the moment

in addition to unsapping the cable from the speedometer and unscrewing the other end from the transmission, there are two clip brackets that need unboltnig one has a larger bolt than the other, one is in the engine bay, the other under the driver's floor

400/400 03-02-2015 10:38 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Gregski (Post 7073622)
Thanks Greg, I want to let you know that prior to the repair from time to time I would notice the master brake cylinder itself looked wet like this, does this tell us anything? I thought it was leaking from the lid cause maybe it was too full, but it was not over full.

Looks like you need a new master cylinder. My '85 was leaking like that when I got it. It was the seal on the vac booster side of the MC.

Make sure to bench bleed it when you get a new one.

Gregski 03-02-2015 10:51 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
1 Attachment(s)
couple minutes finagling that larger bolt bracket in the engine bay and the old speedo cable was out

rich weyand 03-02-2015 11:16 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by 400/400 (Post 7073654)
Looks like you need a new master cylinder. My '85 was leaking like that when I got it. It was the seal on the vac booster side of the MC.

Make sure to bench bleed it when you get a new one.

One of the things we need to realize when working on these older vehicles is that rubber shrinks and hardens as it ages. Lots of things that isn't so good for, like water pumps, rear engine seals, master and slave cylinders, etc. You can add seal conditioner to engines, transmissions, and power steering systems. If you use the right one (Amazon.com: ATP AT-205 Re-Seal Stops Leaks, 8... Amazon.com: ATP AT-205 Re-Seal Stops Leaks, 8...), it will add the missing volatiles back to the rubber and help a lot. But you can't use it in brake systems.

BTW, if that Lubriplate has shown up, it's a great choice for the speedo cable lube.

Gregski 03-02-2015 11:28 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
2 Attachment(s)
please inspect your parts before you take them home from the parts house

here is the new cable I got from The AutoZone, the $6 dollar price tag should have been the first Red Flag

you ever heard that expression it's like trying to fit a square peg in a round hole, well how about a round peg in a square hole

I recon this special order cable got fandangled in shipping

Gregski 03-02-2015 11:30 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
2 Attachment(s)
here's how the new cable compares to the old

that red protective cap sure did a lot of good didn't it

Gregski 03-02-2015 11:35 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
2 Attachment(s)
well after an hour or so (that I will never get back) I tapped the fitting into submission using a 10 mm socket and got the cable installed, and the speedo works, but since the gauge is bulging out a bit in the middle I recon the cable needs to go in about 1/6h of an inch more but it can't so I think I will be getting another one from The NAPA Auto Parts store tomorrow

ah the joys of aftermarket quality parts

Gregski 03-02-2015 11:41 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by rich weyand (Post 7073722)
BTW, if that Lubriplate has shown up, it's a great choice for the speedo cable lube.

not yet, it was last seen here

rich weyand 03-02-2015 11:48 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
I feel bad about that, since I recommended it. I have never had that kind of delay from that supplier.

Gregski 03-02-2015 11:50 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by 400/400 (Post 7073654)
Looks like you need a new master cylinder. [...] Make sure to bench bleed it when you get a new one.

Yup, looks like a project for this weekend. By the way how come this power one from AutoZone looks opposite from mine, on mine the smaller chamber is in the front and on this one it is in the back, my old one looks like the ones for manual brakes, could the P.O. have used the wrong cylinder?!

Gregski 03-02-2015 11:52 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by rich weyand (Post 7073775)
I feel bad about that, since I recommended it. I have never had that kind of delay from that supplier.

No worries bro, you have helped me so much, this time frame is a first for me too.

rich weyand 03-03-2015 12:29 AM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Gregski (Post 7073780)
Yup, looks like a project for this weekend. By the way how come this power one from AutoZone looks opposite from mine, on mine the smaller chamber is in the front and on this one it is in the back, my old one looks like the ones for manual brakes, could the P.O. have used the wrong cylinder?!

OK, this one took a while with the parts book. It turns out that it depends.

The little one in the front and the big one in the back is for "1974-75 C-3 (JB8 w/P.S.) (292) HYDRA-BOOSTER PUMP" among other things.

The one with equal reservoirs is for "1973-78 CG-1, BLAZER, JIMMEY (JB-3) SINGLE DIAPHRAGM VACUUM CYLINDER (MORAINE)" and "1973-78 CKGP-1, 2, 3, BLAZER, JIMMY (JB-5, JB-6, JB-7) TANDEM DIAPHRAGM VACUUM CYLINDER (MORAINE)"

The one with the big one in the front and the little one in the back is for "1973-78 C-1 BLAZER (C), JIMMY (C) w/JB-1, JB-3 BENDIX MASTER AND VACUUM CYLINDER"

Some notes. C means 2WD. K is 4wd. G and P are vans I think. 1, 2, 3 means 10, 20, 30. So "CKGP-1, 2, 3" means C-10, C-20, C-30, K-10, K-20, .... JB1, JB3, JB5 are RPO codes for power brakes and should be called out on the glovebox sheet. My 1978 K-10 calls out Z84 Cheyenne Equipment, but doesn't say which PB code it contained. Probably JB5, JB6 or JB7, which went by GVW. You probably have JB5.

Got all that?

Given all that, I just went out and looked at mine, and it's big one in the front and small one in the back, so go figure.

Which kind of makes sense. Drum brakes take a lot more fluid movement than disks, which hardly move at all. So if the front reservoir is for the rear brakes, I would expect the front one to be larger on a disk/drum setup.

rich weyand 03-03-2015 12:35 AM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
Looking deeper, I can nail it down exactly if you tell me the GVWR on the door sticker. Add the front and rear axle ratings, I just need the total.

enaberif 03-03-2015 12:47 AM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
Here is a writeup I found elsewhere that really brakes down a lot of the common brake setups.

http://goo.gl/m0Zh1I

rich weyand 03-03-2015 01:03 AM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
Yeah, my truck should have a JB5 setup, but when the garage replaced the original master cylinder because the cup was age-hardened and passing fluid (pedal would slowly sink to the floor as you held it), they put the big, honkin' JB7 master cylinder on it, which is fine. Going to a LESSER duty part would NOT be good.

rich weyand 03-03-2015 01:04 AM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by enaberif (Post 7073860)
Here is a writeup I found elsewhere that really brakes down a lot of the common brake setups.

http://goo.gl/m0Zh1I

Oh, and note that both of those pictured have the big reservoir in the front.

Titomars 03-03-2015 01:06 AM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by rich weyand (Post 7073833)
Some notes. C means 2WD. K is 4wd. G and P are vans I think. 1, 2, 3 means 10, 20, 30. So "CKGP-1, 2, 3" means C-10, C-20, C-30, K-10, K-20, .... JB1, JB3, JB5 are RPO codes for power brakes and should be called out on the glovebox sheet. My 1978 K-10 calls out Z84 Cheyenne Equipment, but doesn't say which PB code it contained. Probably JB5, JB6 or JB7, which went by GVW. You probably have JB5.

G = Standard Vans
P = Forward control chassis
1,2,3 = Chev 10,20,30 GMC 15,25,35
JB1 = manual (no power)
JB3 = light duty Vacuum 1/2t
JB5 = heavy duty Vacuum 1/2t this is standard with a V8 and A/C and certain other packages
JB6 = Vacuum light duty 3/4t up
JB7 = Vacuum heavy Duty 3/4t up
JB8 = Hydraulic booster 3/4t up


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