Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Could it be one tooth off inside the box?

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

I think you may be on to something, I will take it apart tonight and let you know, good advice I appreciate it.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Well crap. Get this thing resolved ok. Good luck.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Greg if you remove the drag link from the pitman arm or the pitman arm from the sector you can then turn the sector from lock to lock. Count the turns then return the sector to center. Now look at the splines on the output shaft. The pitman arm should be parallel with the frame when mounted on the sector. That should get it closer.
Does anyone know if the draglink is different for manual or power steering?

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

That's what I did, I am 4 turns lock to lock, so I put it in the middle at 2 turns and I am very close to center or even in the center

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/wp-co...ev28jl2009.pdf


This pdf is for gm cars but may apply to your steering box too. On page 2 it says the some 73-74 boxes have more tavel right than left

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Anyone heard of BAW tie rod ends? The PO put one of those on the driver side and I'm broke so I was only gonna buy one to match it

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

on the way home from work today stopped by AutoZone and rented this here HammerHead

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

since I had to pull the manual steering box back off I figured I would take some pics of specialty tools and such needed for the job that I didn't have time to take the first time around, here I am abusing a pitman arm puller

really aint no other way to git this thing off that I know of

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Never time to do it right, but always time to do it over, I'm sure we've all heard that before

so since I had the box off I took it upon myself to replace one of the bearing cups, one was pitted / damaged probably by the one bearing that gave way and shattered and the person kept driving the vehicle

I actually had to devise a puller to pull the bearing forward about an 1/8th of an inch before the slide hammer jaws could even get in there

you ain't wrenched until you made or modified your own tools, am I right fellars?

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

a side by side comparison of the old damaged bearing cup and the new replacement one

hey man I aint perfect but I try to do a good job

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

then it was time to use my portable press on my 20" by 20" concrete bench top (aka garage floor)

gentle now... even the retainer found its way back into place to keep the bearing from falling out

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

then I had to remove both outter steering tie rods, I know some say don't use the Yamaha tuning fork, but I tried the screw the crown nut to the bolt and try to hammer it out but it just wouldn't budge

and yes I ruined the rubber on the new tie rod on the driver side, but oh well I couldn't find a match for it anyway

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

here's the BAW tie rod no one's ever heard of

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Gregski, i just bought an NOS manual box for my pile.
If yours is terminal... I have a known good used one I'd donate.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

and this is the OEM GM one from the passenger side, this one has seen better days, but believe it or not inside it was solid

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

ah man... don't tell me we is gonna clean this thing if we're just gonna replace it...

you know how NASCAR tears up the engine right after each race for a close inspection, well Busted Knuckless Garage aint no different we must examine each part for goodness or badness people

all I'm saying is this part after 42 years of service deserves to be in a Museum not in the Trash, that's all I'm sayin'

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

I'm telling you this thing with a little love from a grease gun and a new universal rubber boot could be good for another 42 years if we had to use it

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

So I went to NAPA for some new tie rod ends, it being closest to my house, and the dude there had the balls to pass off some ends made in China as MOOG to me, I said no thanks, he said MOOG makes those for us, yeah right, it was some generic no name brand

so I bolted out of there and went to O-Really's they were out of stock of their Moog brans, but I remembered I once got some Master Pro parts from them and they was made in the US, so I asked for a couple boxes, but no luck these were made in China, but it was late at night and I really wanted to test drive the truck tonight

so NOT my proudest moment, but I bought some Master Pro outter tie rod ends, well look on the bright side, at least both sides match now and both sides are new, that's a win for this TRUCK

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

ok man, but how does it steer?

well I thought you would never ask... Now I can't make a U turn in that 57 foot wide parking lot either way, neither right hand turn, nor a left hand turn, LOL

great, so what does that mean?

did I fix things by balancing them out? or did I make them worse? man I don't know, I honestly don't know

I will drive the truck to work for a few days and report back to you all on what I think, right now I am 50/50 on this manual steering conversion, and my arms are already sore, hee hee

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

thanks man, but my donor box came off of a 77, not sure how those are balanced?

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Greg,
Looks like someone got a BAW part in an AC Delco box. (see post #27 & 48)

Weird.

Read here: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=714531

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Good call on the Flowmaster's Gregski.

I cut a Flowmaster off an '04 5.3L F-150 and put on a brand new Magnaflow... to cut the drone. Worked great too.

Then I towed my 5,700 LB (probably closer to 7K with water, groceries and beer loaded) trailer out to Banff, Alberta through the Mountains. That little 5.3 Triton was turning pretty fast getting up the big hills.

By the time I got home, the exhaust from those 5500+ RPM hills had pounded the glass baffles in the Magnaflow flat and the truck droned worse than ever.