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and here's how the 2011 REMFLEX gaskets fit the Hooker headers
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well since we removed the spark plugs to make it easier to get the passenger side header out might as well check them
I don't know about you but they look perfect to me from left to right: #8 - #6 - #4 - #2 |
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so since I already had the header off I decided now was as good time as any to cut out the resonators out of the Magnaflow exhaust to see if we can put some bark back into it
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this is where the Magic Happens
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I had good luck using the oem exhaust gaskets that are specific for vortec heads.
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I enjoy your thread greatly. THe only quibble I have is calling this thing rusty. Here in Michigan rusty implies box fell off, no rockers, no lower doors, and at least 1 cab mount is missing.
LOL. |
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Greg, dude, thanks for keeping this going! I re read a bunch of this and it will serve as a reference for quite some time into the future. Like the pictures of Rusty, out and about. Really cool that you went thru the process of grabbing that 833 4 speed OD. Would like to have that in a shorty like yours. Please don't get tired of taking it to the Gregski level and bringing it to us with your pictures and own brand of prose. Thanks for the info and the entertainment! LT7A |
Re: Restoring Rusty
Man I hope your exhaust comes out good for you. In my experience with small displacement motors (non V8s), the resonators help take away the raspiness. I run flowmasters on two V8 vehicles and am very happy with the performance and sound, but I don't display the sticker or have the tattoo.
They are tuned cat back systems so I think that makes a difference, as do the cats. I think they are both 50 series. The description of the 40 series made me shy away from them. In your case, I think that full tail pipes would also help with the drone. Good luck! |
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just a couple pics from memory lane |
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alright well lets take a look at the spark plugs on the driver's side
Oh my that can't be good Check out the #5 plug the second one from the left, that be what we call carbon build up it's hard as a rock |
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time to remove the Hooker header off of the driver side, on this side we were running a Mr. Gasket gray gasket and to no surprise this side leaked too, I don't even flinch any more people, headers leak
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and how does the header look like, ah yes, SBD this side was Silent But Deadly
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and just a quick look see at that Mr. Gasket gasket off the truck - aka The Smoking Gun
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Biggest thing once you have them back on is to 1) get them hot, and then 2) torque them while they're hot.
Lots easier to do this if you have the socket-cap header bolts, and use a hex ball driver. This set comes with the ball driver: http://www.jegs.com/i/Mr-Gasket/720/3420G/10002/-1 |
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well I've had it with that #1 pipe crowding #5's space where you can't even run a plug wire straight up through there, so something had to be done
first we tried a little gentle persuasion |
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the way I see it there are two types of Car People
1. Hot Rodders and 2. Those who never cut up a set of "perfectly" good headers - ie The Others |
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and grinder and paint make me the welder I aint
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and back on they go, now we have a nice gap between the #5 cylinder same as all the others
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Also, after a dozen or so temperature cycles, torque them again.
Once they're tight, they'll stay that way, but to get them there, you have to get them to conform to the heads. |
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