Re: Restoring Rusty
 

I'll be captain obvious here... They need to be throughly clean as well as the anti-rotation indents in the rods and caps clear of crud.
You also need to be sure the oil holes from the main journals to the rod journals are clear of crud. If you get any siginifcant crud from the rod journal feed holes you may need to pull the block so you can remove the crank.
Install them with assembly lube not dry.

If the cam or main bearings are loose the oil pressure will drop.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Rod bearings did not need replacing the rings did

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Why did you replace them then, just because you were there when honing?. The only thing you did in the lower end was replace those bearings. If you need 10 under bearing and put standard bearings in then that could explain your sound. Also having one or more not torqued properly would too... just saying, easy check. GL, hope your figure it out.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

thank you all for your feedback, coming up are some visuals

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

yes the old ones were out so I thought might as well put new ones in, it's like when you take the old water pump off to do the timing set, you put a new water pump back on, even if the old one was still good, just cause it's such a P.I.A.

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#3 was good

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

# 4 was good too

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

You definitely has some garbage going around in there. It likely the mains look the same now. How does the rod journal look on the crank?

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Agreed. Looks like you got some leavins from honing the cylinders or just plain dirt in there. If you're darn lucky it just contaminated the lube holes between the mains and rod journals and the lube oil washed it into the rod bearings.

What does the #1-2 rod journal look like? For that matter 3-4, 5-6, & 7-8 too...

I've done rod and even main bearings in-frame but if I had to get into the cylinders with a hone and-or ridge reamer the block got pulled so I could wash out all of the leftover crud with Kerosene and DAWN. The tiny pieces of stone and cast iron gets airborne and goes everywhere. You can't keep it out of the important parts.

The metal and carborundum dust is same reason nobody uses their good lathe for toolpost grinding you use the cheap one that had a rough life instead.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Well let me show you how the other half lives

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

When you were honing the cylinders you seemed to be pretty careful with the deflector thingy you had.

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# 5 was ok

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# 6 was ok

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# 8 was ok

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Re: Restoring Rusty
 

but since we was pot committed and because I am a complitionist by nature I bought three new standard size bearings and replaced #1, #2, and #7

I torqued them down to 45 foot pounds in two stages this time, first to 30 foot pounds then to 45 foot pounds (by the way my new China made Craftsman torque wrench is a piece of complete garbage, the plastic handle jams and feels flimzy, I hate that tool)

also this time I did not grease the back sides of the bearings and allowed the juicy special sauce on the crank to self lube the fronts

well another 9 hour day spent working on the truck, at least I can't say I didn't have the time to work on it

finally my day culminated with a start up, rev up to 3000 RPM for 1 minute, a 10 minute warm up, then a nice 50 mile drive, streets and finally highway

no noises yet, but we will see what happens after a couple heat cycles, ie start and drive the truck, then let it sit there cool off, then start and drive it again

last time it lasted 100 miles, lets see if we can beat that, LOL

but I do see a roller block in the near future, Rusty get ready for a transplant!

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Yes I even wrapped the crank in plastic garbage bags

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

The water could be explained by any number of things. Leaky head gasket, intake manifold gasket, crack in the block or when you removed the heads it got into the motor. It seems quite possible some remnants from the hone job could have caused that bearing failure though. Did you lubricate the hone at all? It seems like if it was lubed it might run down the inside of the block and get all over. If it was dry then stone and iron dust would get air born and go all over. Hopefully you have it straightened out now.

FYI
Last time I pulled my heads I used a 1/4" house with a large tapered tip from my might vac kit to stick in the head bolt hole at the rear of the engine and syphoned the water jacket down, worked great, didn't get a drop of water in the cylinders.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Double post.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

I would have liked to seen some side by sides of your old bearing vs new. IMO none of those look very good for only 100 miles.

Also, gotta imagine if its tearing the rod bearings up, whats it doing to the cam and mains.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Ok greg... the suspense is killing me is Rusty alive? ��

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Ha ha I love it, thank you for asking, Rusty and I have piled on over 200 additional miles since we replaced the three ugly new rod bearings, The Greg is trying to go one whole week without wrenchin' on his truck, remember its running with the stock exhaust manifolds and the LMC Truck 2 1/4 pipe dual exhaust with some type of chambered mufflers, but we got plans for the weekend