Re: Restoring Rusty
 

getting the worm gear out was no picnic either, but got it out too

I think this is where we first spotted to completely busted up bearing, it was shattered

Mess Level = 11.5

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Yes I believe the S is for Strong, as in, you must be Strong to drive a manual steering truck, or is it S for Stupid... ha ha

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

couldn't get to the third flat screw this way, so realized the rag joint has to come off to fully slide it out - even the rag joint needed a puller to git off

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getting there, this is the last pic for the night, but I did take the ball bearings out of that thing that sits on the warm gear, and hopefully I didn't loose none

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Core charge at a junk yard? That's a new one.
Disposal fee for what? The core you should have given them?

Greg, this is Sanity calling. Convert to manual steering? Do you have a 24" diameter steering wheel? Or Arnold's biceps? :)

I went the opposite direction on my old 69 C10. Converting to PS was more bang-for-the-buck than any mod I did on that truck, just ahead of dual exhausts. And I did it all with junkyard parts. Only downside was my then 17 year old daughter decided she liked to drive it.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

You will :)

Manwel steering
 

The single complaint my 6'6", 300# father had about his 1981 GMC with a straight six and 3OTT (ie a light as you can get truck) was that the manual steering with the stock wheel was very high effort. I actually used to have to have the seat belt cinched down tight to keep me in the seat to turn the wheels sitting still on concrete.

I strongly beg to to reconsider. On the other hand your wife will drive the truck once in a concrete parking lot and then will never do it again.

I have manual steering in the truck I'm looking at drag racing. All the DD's will / do be power, and I'm a man who likes my trucks with no frills (5 squares, exactly 1 set power doors...)

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Manual steering. I'm in big time. I've been considering it too for my old rag. I've got my reasons. Lol. It's funny to me but my truck has manual brakes. Everybody wants power brakes. Honestly I never cared for power brakes. My old 74 had power brakes and I never really cared for it. I'm a bird of a different feather.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Well, I do agree with you on manual brakes. Those in my base C10 work surprisingly well, and they are only 2" wide rear shoes and 1" front rotors.

I will admit that the rear has new riveted shoes, finned drums, and wheel cylinders. Even springs and most of the hardware is new. All I did to the front was replace the nearly worn-out pads with some mid-level pads from O'Reilly Auto. Someday I'll probably get loaded calipers with Wagner Thermo Quiet pads and have the rotors turned.

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did I mention I have a daughter too, who will be driving in a few years, ha ha, a man must protect his investment

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finally somebody on my side, ha ha, strength in numbers brother, strength in numbers

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Heat is your friend with pitman arms. even a hand held propane torch helps greatly.

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the latest addition to the workshop, man it feels good to be back in the game, looks right at home on that cart don't it

let there be sparks

those of you familiar with the Lincoln MIG 110 volt machines may pick up that this is the 140C model, the C stands for "Can't get it from Lowe's or Home Depot" ha ha it's a step above the Retail machines and costs twice as much and weighs twice as much as well, has better guts made of metal rather than plastic, etc. also I can get the spool gun for it if and when the time comes to stick some thin aluminum together

The Greg is Happy!

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So drove the truck in to work today for the first time since installing the door weatherstripping and there is a hissing sound coming from the passenger side door dang it. I hope I can fix it by aligning the door proper as it does sag even with the brand new pins and bushings. I really don't want to install the optional rubber strips on the door if I aint got to, know what I'm sayin' especially since the driver side door don't hiss.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

can anyone recommend what lubricant to use in my manual steering box, I have seen everything from CV joints grease to gear oil to a mix of the two recommended

I am really tempted to just use this multi purpose brown grease I have been storing for over 30 years, ha ha gotta find some use for it

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Factory uses heavy oil. If you don't ever see freezing temperatures you 'might' get away with grease.

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Aluminum takes a lot more heat than steel. 110v welders work great on sheet steel but Aluminum, other than thin sheet, is another story.

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I totally agree that's why I was surprised to see the spool gun as an option for this little bugger, and I even asked the sales guys how does the aluminum welding work with this machine and yes I know sales guys but they said funny that I should ask cause a guy just bought the spool gun for this machine recently and came back for some materials and told them it works great, but we shall see if when I get there

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so sent my old / bad oil pressure gauge back to Summit and they sent me a replacement for FREE

More Better News: the new gauge works!

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I waited a long time to get this, so I am super excited

The INNOVATE Wideband "dual" (pronunced for a Chebby, ha ha) Fuel Air Ratio meter gauge kit comes with two oxygen sensors so if you got a V8 or a dual exhaust setup I should say you install one of these in each exhaust pipe and you can see how both banks are doing

DLG-1: Dual Lambda (Air/Fuel Ratio) Gauge
(Includes: LSU 4.9 sensors)

found it on eBay for only $320 bones, what a deal

I may dedicate a separate thread to this tuning, diagnosing and data logging system as I hope to get pretty involved in it

Note: I will be adding their digital Vacuum gauge (includes RPM gauge) ASAP as well, that should be enuff to get me started tuning properly

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Glad it's working for you. Summit is usually pretty good about returns. They let me exchange parts I had for over a year when my car project plans changed.

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Cool beans on the gauges

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Wideband... The most expensive use once or twice tool before it gets put away.

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I have been thinking about getting a wideband guage. I'll be watching to see how it works for you.

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Manual steering is fine, but not a fan of the manual brakes swap.
Pedal is to high for my liking and feels dead, stops just fine though.

But will stay for now

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Negative Ghost Rider, the gauge will be permanently mounted in the dash, no different than Oil pressure or Water Temp, just taking the game to the next level that's all, I will see how things change in the Winter and adjust accordingly, when I go camping in the mountains I will see how elevation plays a part, very cool stuff up ahead

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Injury Report: Well had to try the new MIG welder without my welding gloves and with just some cheap ol' construction gloves from Home Depot and a spark burned my fore arm just passed the short gloves and made its way through the end of the denim Levis jack sleeve and through a long sleeve T shirt, I felt it but kept welding, cause I'm a man, that's why... had I stopped and screamed like a baby maybe I would have shook it off before it toasted my precious skin, ha ha

yeah, been to Harbor Freight and picked up their leather apron and long welder gloves kit, (sucks buying things over again that you had before but sold on Craigslist cause you is a PinHead) ha ha

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Please do let us know on how much change you see in tuning needed with the A/F gauge, it is a pretty cool gauge.
(Nice little burn/re-education reminder for one spark !! If it landed in your ear - you'd have been much quicker)

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Once you have a perfect A/F ratio you should never need the wideband again and this is what I was referring to.

A perfect A/F ratio means everything is dialed in and unless you may a weird change it should stay that way or relatively close for a long time.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Greg excellent work man! Shout out from the Deep South!! Read the thread and will use your work as a reference for my own project . I have a couple questions for you about the different paint products you used throughout your build. I'm maintaining interested in the interior and the exterior trim. Any info is good. Thanks!

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

I hear you bro but I must once again vehemently (big word alert) disagree, you see a modern day vehicle with Throttle Body ie fuel injection makes thousandths of calculations and adjustments a second in order to have / maintain that "perfect" air fuel ratio

our carburated trucks don't have no computer so they don't adjust much as we drive them, they don't know weather its 50° F when we start them to drive to work or a 105° F they don't know if we is towin' or haulin or are alone in the truck or with 2 of our fat buddies

so our trucks do need constant adjustments, I think you are focusing on the Idle circuit too much, I am thinking of the entire big picture, WOT - Wide Open Throttle, Part Throttle, cruising, but we'll get to all that, stay [ahem] tuned

and I have started a separate thread for all this to get even more geekier with it for those of you who want to follow along

INNOVATE DLG1 Wideband O2 Oxygen Sensor Tuning Diagnostics Logging Air Fuel Ratio etc

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

well it was time to put on some big boy pants and weld up my exhaust cause you know what those there U joint clamps aint leak tight, I don't care how tight you turn them

that there bulge is a resonator in an attempt to take the drone out, I get a drone sound around 1000 RPM

passenger side

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

thank you for the kind words, enjoy your build

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here is a stare and compare of the still clamped up driver side and the newly welded up passenger side

Note I had the resonator right up against the muffler, not my proudest moment there but we hammered in the intermediate pipes so hard into the header extensions that at the time I did not want to take the whole thing apart in hopes of getting them separated, but when the time came to weld things up I used some BP Blaster and my 3 lbs sledge to somehow get them apart

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

and both sides done and ready to go back on the truck

I really hope moving these resonators / baffles what ever you wanna call them further up and away from the mufflers will have some impact on the drone sound

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Mandatory Injury Report - MJR

honestly I have no idea how I sliced my hand there, probobly removing that exhaust and on those pesky U joints, they drew blood one last final time

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This is a true statement. I have one myself.

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If you do t want drone scrap those junk ass blowmasters.

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some day I will own three or four of these (AVE style, please check him out on YouTube - he is so funny) and swappin attachments will be a thing of the past