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by cleaning the old parts we can see markings on them, sometimes those markings are part numbers sometimes they are clues for which side of the vehicle the part goes on, Right or Left for example
in this case we see two parts below both from the Driver's side yet one is marked "R" whilst the other bears an "L" in this case the first part which I dubbed the Dog Bone (LOL) is on the wrong side, someone swapped these two parts and put them on the wrong side |
Re: Restoring Rusty
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cleaned and gooped the three contact points per shoe where the shoes rub against the backing plate ~ when these squeak your wife will let you know about it, jk so it don't hurt to prevent that from happening
I must say I am not a fan of drum brake assemblage it seems to me as though someone took a dozen of automotive engineers, gave them a brown bag of random bits, bicycle handlebars, a fork, a wrench, a couple different sized slinkys, some large diameter pipe, etc. etc. and said you are not allowed to leave this room until you build some DRUM BRAKES out of all these bits !!! so cleaned, lubed up, and reassembled |
Re: Restoring Rusty
If I remember right those little springs they dont include are not real cheap but you gotta have em.Keep up the good work ,everything is looking great .
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WAIT!
Your shoes are not in the correct place. The small one(s) face front, the large one(s) face rear. This is because they are self-energizing brakes, and the smaller front shoe is merely to help apply the larger rear shoe using the rotation of the drum. |
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Get this kit. http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece...kit-97804.html I found the pliers to be darn close to useless except for the spring tool on the end of one handle. The star wheel spoon was not that useful till I sharpened the end with a bench grinder... Not actually sharp but no longer 3/16" thick at the business end. They are nice to have for drum brakes. |
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Measure their LENGTH; they are different front-and-back.
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Great progress, Greg. The guys are right about the shoes; the longer shoe goes to the rear.
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Nice work as usual. In honor of you I dunks some parts in muriatic acid today.
BTW keep the blue, vintage, California tag. |
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by the way if you need to start you truck still and the ignition rack is broke, use pliers to pull the rod that attaches to the rack. itll still start. i had to do that to drive mine for a while
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Re: Restoring Rusty - Ignition Switch Assembly Anatomy
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Nice break down of the column.
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More to come I hope.
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huge thanks to SkinnyG for pointing out a big mistake I made by mounting both front facing shoes on the driver side and both rear facing shoes on the passenger side
the shoe on the left in the first pic goes closer to the front of the truck the shoe on the right goes closer to the rear of the truck so today I think I finally got it right |
Re: Restoring Rusty - Headlights
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guys lets talk headlight for a minute, I like to understand how to test them when there is a problem and not just run out and buy a replacement, but I don't get how they work
here is how they are wired, they each have three prongs so if we look at them from the back the left most vertical prong has black wires going to it, so we assume that is negative, opposite that prong is another vertical prong on the right this one has light green wires going to it, and then there is a horizontal prong above with light brown wires going to it when I took a test light to the wiring harness here were my test results even on the working side (cause only driver side low beam does not work) Black & Green = light on Black & Brown = no light So do they work such that when Black and Green is on then that's low beams and when Black and Brown is on then that's high beams for example? Or is high beams when all three are on? |
Re: Restoring Rusty
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after trying to do all the headlight math I decided to do what I always do, stare and compare, or swap/replace and compare, so I plugged the working headlight from the passenger side to the driver side harness and tested it, and both low beam and high beam worked, so I took off for the parts house
now being The Greg and already dealing with a Wagner beam on one side and an Atlas brand on the other, neither of which I could find today, I decided to splurge $10 bucks a piece on two brand new [literally shinny] SYLVANIA beauties but the Truck Gods would not smile upon us today! you see these new beamers have shorter nipples, or no nipples at all if you ask me, see last pic (old on left, new on right), so I was unable to plug the stock harness on to them, and cutting it to make it work I was not willing to do, so tomorrow I return these headlights and I bet I will have to pay double for ones that actually work as my college roommate used to say... "It Aint Easy!" |
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Headlight wiring is split
The reason for 2 wires off each one is that it goes to the opposing light. 1 green in and 1 green out to the opposite light. Same with the brown and and black. Oh and good luck finding bulbs that work with the connector on these trucks. Many people end up cutting the plastic piece to fit properly or completely switch over to a H4 setup. I have the same issue with my connector and it keeps falling off :\ Looks like PHILIPS Part # H6024 will work. |
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in related news The Greg noticed the retaining ring was broken on the passenger side, so I see a junkyard trip in my near future
gotta love old cars, fix one thing another one breaks |
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1. fix rear brakes - DONE
2. replace or fix left headlight - DONE 3. fix left rear turn signal 4. check out the lifter / rocker arm ticking noise 5. refresh the power steering 6. fix hazard signals 7. get the AM radio working 8. fix reverse lights |
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Good stuff Greg. I've got a headlight retainer ring with the same problem. I was going to buy two new ones from LMC. Anybody used them before? I really want to change the headlight buckets too, due to rust and the fasteners being pretty much peckered.
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Any tips on fixin' #8 above?
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Glad I pulled some headlights a few years back....lol.
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Captain's Log Day 274
Drove the truck to work today, birds were chirpin and the sun was shining, truck started good, ran good, drove good, stopped good, and turned OK, (see #5 above) |
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the next place i would look is the splice for the trailer lights. |
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Thank you Titomars, le me step through these one by one
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Or do I touch the ground somewhere with the black lead from the volt meter and then use the red lead to first touch the dark green wire inside the connector and then try the light green wire inside the connector? I honestly don't know, and my daddy was an electrician by trade you think he would have taught me somethin' LOL, jk |
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Greg, use a jumper cable to tie the black meter lead to a good ground. Now, probe those spots with the red meter lead. You'll either get 12V or 0. The power for the backup lights comes from the ignition switch when in the run position. So you should get 12v on one of those two wires at the transmission connector. If you have 12, work towards the backup lights. If you have 0, work backwards towards the ignition switch.
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Hopefully you'll get it fixed soon. I despise electrical gremlins. Just like any new tech whizz bang when it doesn't work.
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