Re: Restoring Rusty - Fly Wheel
 

that left us with the Fly Wheel

Re: Restoring Rusty - Fly Wheel Removal
 

six bolts later the fly wheel was off, I think the dowel alignment pin was missing

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

now we could see the situation, and find another broken starter tooth purched up in there stuck with some old grease, imagine what would happen if that thing vibrated loose and fell between the starter and the fly wheel teeth, ouch

well this confirms I have the old style block with the two piece main seal but we already knew that

actually this place does not look too bad I expected it to be soaked in oil, notice the purdy freeze plugs, geez two more

Re: Restoring Rusty - Rear Main
 

ok, why are we doing all this? oh yeah, we need to replace the rear main oil seal

drain the oil. drop the oil pan, and remove the oil pump (man this sounds very familiar)

undue two bolts on the rear main and tap it with the baby sledge to loosen it up, try not to drop it, yet watch it slip out of your hand and into the oil bath below, geez I'm slippin (pun)

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Don't forget to install a new pilot bushing/bearing and check the wear on that flywheel, it may need resurfacing.

Re: Restoring Rusty - Rear Main Oild Seal
 

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Thanks Jake, do you think a place like Pep Boys can resurface a flywheel? Is it like turning brake drums? And is it even worth it, a new one is $75 bucks. Mine feels nice and smooth though no ridges.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

lol looks like you do in fact have know what you are doing.

Re: Restoring Rusty - The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly
 

Sunday morning, tea a& toast and under the truck by 8 am

put in a solid 2 hours of cleaning already this morning [hey you know me]

the good - I could sit up in the trans tunnel (though the edges are guillotine sharp)

the bad - still hard to reach around the top of where the bell housing mounts (need that clean so I can easily see where new leaks emerge if any)

the ugly - engine cross member (yup got side tracked and removed about 45 lbs of dirt and grime from this beast) I recon no one at GM won the Nobel Piece Prize for the lip design on the bottom of that thing, though it's great for haulin' dirt and grime

pic of what I started with

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Glad to see all your progress! If it helps any, the single piece rear seals are harder to change. And I agree, those tranny crossmembers really pack up the dirt!

I'd agree with the others that a flywheel resurface makes sense, and why not put a new clutch in there while it's all apart? Your current clutch is a Borg-and-beck style (the three release levers). These take more pedal effort then a diaphragm style. A stock replacement clutch disc and pressure plate are cheap (do the throwout bearing too). I think my last set was only like $150, and that's here in Canada. We hardly need a Centerforce super-dooper setup for a pretty stock engine.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Agreed. If you can possibly swing it, a new clutch kit, and at least a fly wheel resurfacing, would be best done while you are in there. The flip side is, as you have found, its not exactly a monumental task to pull the trans. So if you cant quite afford it at the moment, just know that you will do it soon but have to pull the trans. Now with it being all clean and stuff, you should be able to pull the trans and install a new clutch in a day pretty easy. One last thing to consider. Price out a whole new flywheel. Some times they are worth new due to the starter ring gear teeth being chewed up.

Re: Restoring Rusty - Rear Bumper Removal
 

Rock auto lists brand new flywheels for under $60. And complete clutch kits for as low as $80.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

You might want to consider doing those 2 freeze plugs in the back. Don't touch the center one that is not a freeze plug, it is the cam bore plug. Especially since you already had issues with the others, I'd replace them. Oh yes please do a complete clutch replacement while it is apart you will thank yourself many times after. In my area getting a flywheel resurfaced is $45.00. The cost of a new flywheel is usually under $75.00 and it includes a new ring gear too. So it really pays to just replace it.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

You're getting there.

Re: Restoring Rusty - New Rear Main Seal
 

Thanks, not much progress today, only 2 hours of cleaning, then a parts store run, then lunch with family, then movie with family, then power nap

picked up a Fel Pro two piece rear mail seal, no idea what the white pinky ring is for

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

man I soooo dont wanna, they look so pretty and shinny and new and dry too, and I really don't trust my freeze plug installations I don't think I am that good at it, so I avoid em when ever possible, hee hee

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

I went to Pep Boys today to see if they resurface fly wheels and they don't. They do turn brake rotors/drums so I thought I would ask.

I am with you on just buying a brand new one, otherwise mating a new clutch plate to an old fly wheel is like clapping with one hand.

But man we got to watch the kitty cause it's a slippery slope. My kitty that is, you guys are spending like crazy here, JK, replace this, replace that, LOL if I wanted a shinny new truck I would have bought an F150 - kidding geeze get back in your seats folks, sorry to make you spill that bear, was it technically even the F word I said?

Re: Restoring Rusty - New Rear Main Seal
 

The white pinky ring thing is like a "coupler" that goes between the oil pump and oil pump drive shaft.

EDIT:

Can kinda see it in this pic.

http://www.handymanlyness.com/archiv...d_99_Jimmy.jpg

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Damn, you beat me to it... :). The white pinky ring is for connecting the oil pump driveshaft.

You guys can buy a new flywheel (not ring gear) for $60?!! Damn, there's no way I could get one so cheap here. Heck, I'd pay that for a used one that needed resurfacing. Greg, if you find a local engine machine shop, they'll have a lathe that can face the flywheel.

That new clutch looks good. It's a diaphragm style. You'll notice a difference in pedal effort.

Now, while we're spending your money... Change the pilot bearing in the crank, and make sure the new one has needle bearings and isn't an old style bronze bushing. You might also want to put a new stock-style oil pump on. It's good insurance while the engine is opened up, and they're cheap. Forget the high pressure / high flow pumps for stock engines, they aren't needed, and load the distributor gears up more.

Nah forget all that and just spring for a 572 BBC! :lol:

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

they may look clean and shinny from the outside but consider this. Freeze plugs rot from the inside out. Those two you did replace where in the rear sides of the block. that's where the deposits and cooling system sludge build up and why those 2 failed. Now look where the two rear ones are.
I understand where you are coming from but those two are easy to get at. If you don't trust yourself after you change them, fill the cooling system and leave it for a day with a nice clean pan under it. Any leaks should show themselves after 24 hrs.

I am on a budget with my baby too. But there are certain things that should be done while a major assembly is out. Trust me when you get done stabbing that 2,000lb trans back in you will not want to pull it back out any time soon! How I work my builds is if something comes up, I redirect the funds I was saving for something Like a Stereo to go towards that job that keeps her on the road and happy. When my truck is happy it comes back to me two fold as I drive her. ;)

Re: Restoring Rusty - New Rear Main Seal
 

Oh, gracias! Another lesson learned by doing.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

looks good
frost plugs and starter ring would be good insurance now.
try this type of comparison?in store?mine was really worn...But I had starter issues

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Love what you're doing here Greg. If you ever need a hand, Im local to you.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Before you put that oil pump in get yourself a all metal oil pump drive. It gets rid of the plastic ring for a metal bushing instead.

http://www.northernautoparts.com/ima...Driveshaft.jpg

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

I am also somewhat local too. I am in Santa Rosa. I too am enjoying and love watching your posts gregski

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Hi Jeremey, thanks and how much do you bench press? That tranny aint gonna lift itself! hee hee, PM me where abouts you at, I'm in North Natomas

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Guys I can totally see a meet and greet happening here at a strategically centerally located oil stained AutoZone parking lot, last one there buys a quart of oil to top us off and we head out for some pizza and beer.

Re: Restoring Rusty - ENGINE TORQUES
 

let me run some of these ENGINE TORQUES by ya'll and see if you can verify them before I go snappin bolts, the table in the Manual is a bit confusing as it shows specs for the 250, 292, 350, and 454 motards

Oil Pump - 65 lb. ft. (really sounds like a lot)

Main Bearing Cap - 70 lb. ft.

Oil Pan - 80 lb. in. (1/4-20 bolts) ('member this one is in inches dummy)
Oil Pan - 65 lb. in. (5/16-18 bolts) (so which one do I got?)

Flywheel - 60 lb. ft. (7/16-20 bolt)

Clutch Pressure Plate - 35 lb. ft.

Flywheel Housing Cover - 80 lb in. (I hate it when they give you this in inches)

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

I am down for that! :)

Re: Restoring Rusty - ENGINE TORQUES
 

Oil Pump - 65 lb. ft. it does but I double checked

Main Bearing Cap - 70 lb. ft.

Oil Pan - 12 lb ft (1/4-20 bolts)
Oil Pan - 18 lb ft (5/16-18 bolts)
You have both. all 4 corners are 5/16 bolts

Flywheel - 60 lb. ft. (7/16-20 bolt) I use lock-tite here

Clutch Pressure Plate - 35 lb. ft. I use lock-tite here

Flywheel Housing - 25 lb ft
flywheel cover (tin) - 12 to 15 lb ft

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

My book shows the oil pan bolts as:
1/4 - 80 in-lbs (6.7 ft-lbs)
5/16 - 165 in-lbs (13.8 ft-lbs)

Don't over torque these, because it distorts the sheet metal and opens up gaps between the bolts, which of course cause leaks.

Greg

Re: Restoring Rusty - ENGINE TORQUES
 

[QUOTE=Gregski;7051146]

Oil Pan - 80 lb. in. (1/4-20 bolts) ('member this one is in inches dummy)
Oil Pan - 65 lb. in. (5/16-18 bolts) (so which one do I got?)

An easy way to size the diameter of bolts is to fit the threads of the bolt into open end wrenches.
The 1/4" bolts threaded area will fit nicely in a 1/4" inch wrench, 5/16" bolt threaded area in a 5/16" wrench and so on.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

There you go again with a power nap.......

Re: Restoring Rusty - ENGINE TORQUES
 

[quote=400/400;7051594]Good tip, thanks

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Ok, guys here we go time to start assembling

first I soaked the new Fel Pro rear main gasket in some motor oil to ensure it is slippery to slide right in

in the next pick I show you how I am sliding it in, I slid it in further than this, to where it only stuck out 1/8th of an inch as per the instructions

since you've seen me bolt up the oil pump and oil pan already, I will spare you the re-run, lets just say its done

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Re: Restoring Rusty - Pilot Bushing Removal
 

makes the clean up real easy too

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

the pilot bushing that came with the Clutch Kit was not tapered in the back so after an hour of trying to tap it in the hole I decided to punt

I drove to NAPA and bought a new one, one that resembled the stock OEM one, more importantly it had a tapered rear end and cost only $5 bucks

on the way home I hit the grocery store and picked up a pound of dry ice for $3 bucks, it was either that or hide the new bushing in the freezer (and the ol' lady aint to keen about doing such outlandish things)

1 hour under the dry ice, a squirt of PB blaster in the hole, a socket and a hammer and a few gentle taps later she was in nice and flush