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-   -   How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 (https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=444746)

VA72C10 02-04-2011 11:54 PM

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
Love it! Ruined it good ;)

Thanks for the interesting write-up and pictures. Now get back out there and ruin it some more :chevy:

72BlckButy 02-04-2011 11:57 PM

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
What did you use to mount the bedsides to the raised bed floor?

gringoloco 02-05-2011 01:39 AM

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by VA72C10 (Post 4463315)
Love it! Ruined it good ;)

Thanks for the interesting write-up and pictures. Now get back out there and ruin it some more :chevy:

Haha- you're welcome! It's cooooold out there, hence the reason I'm in here :)
Quote:

Originally Posted by 72BlckButy (Post 4463322)
What did you use to mount the bedsides to the raised bed floor?

I did it the 'permanent' way.

With the bedsides removed, I cut the inner bedside floor mounting flanges off about 1.5" up from the bend, drilled holes through them at evenly spaced intervals, then plug welded them to the opposite bedside in the same position, just flipped 180*, and 3" higher than stock. I used the right side pieces on the left and vice-versa. Same process with the header panel. I also had to take 3" out of the rear stake pockets where they mount to the floor and moved the spot-welded 'L' brackets up.

This way, the floor stays whole and you still have all of the rear cross-sill mounting bolts securing the bedsides. I've seen where people cut the floor at the rear corners and leave the stake pockets intact, but I didn't like the idea of the bedsides flexing or bowing outwards causing tailgate alignment issues since these trucks tend to do that in a stock configuration, not to mention modified.

I still need to pull it apart again to finalize some things; when I do, I will try to remember to take some pictures. This is not for the faint of heart, as you are hacking up perfectly good bedsides, so you'd better be committed. Some think I should be committed :crazy:

I think it looks stock enough that most don't catch it and I don't lose any noticeable capacity. Many ways to skin this cat, but I think 3" is a good height since the tubs come to just under the upper body line of the inner bedside; any more than this is doable, but would turn into a lot of sheetmetal work. I have hauled a ton of crap in this bed and it stands up to the abuse- no worries about using this truck as a truck- even with the raised floor...

Slick67 02-05-2011 02:14 PM

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
That bed looks stock! Do we get to see a pic with the tailgate down also???? I enjoy watching you ruin stuff.

gringoloco 02-05-2011 10:08 PM

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Slick67 (Post 4464395)
That bed looks stock! Do we get to see a pic with the tailgate down also???? I enjoy watching you ruin stuff.

Wish I'd known you wanted one, I pulled the gate off today. There is a 3" step from the gate to the floor.

gringoloco 02-05-2011 10:24 PM

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
3 Attachment(s)
Baby steps today...

Once I raised the bed floor, the wheel tubs would not sit flush against the inner bedsides since they are 3" above the stock cutout. There is a lip on the tubs that keeps them from fitting all the way to the bed.

After removing the tubs (what a pain, these fasteners rust quickly), I proceeded to remove the offending metal with my trusty angle grinder/cutoff wheel.

Orangetonicclicc 02-05-2011 10:31 PM

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
I'm ruining a perfectly good one myself!!!!!! But I think I'm doing what should be done!!!!!! Plus it's mine!!!!!! I love the mods!!!!!! i'm glad you changed that bed back I must admit!!!!!!

gringoloco 02-05-2011 10:33 PM

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
3 Attachment(s)
Also had to create a little notch where the body line was preventing the bottom of the tubs from sitting flush. Note the placement of the new mounting holes 3" higher than stock. They fit MUCH better now :D

My Blazer tank parts did not come in today as scheduled due to inclement weather... :waah:

VA72C10 02-05-2011 11:31 PM

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
Nice work!

SCOTI 02-05-2011 11:44 PM

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
Hey, I like that bed lift idea. Seems like it worked well ;) .

usmcchevy 02-05-2011 11:53 PM

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
Awesome work, subscribing.

RCbowtie69 02-07-2011 08:44 PM

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
:cool: keep pictures coming :metal:

67cheby 02-08-2011 11:08 AM

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
Nice work

dougminton 02-13-2011 03:17 PM

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
subscribed, keep on ruining it.
Posted via Mobile Device

Painter D 02-13-2011 09:16 PM

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
Just watching

Solego 02-13-2011 10:12 PM

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
You make it look so easy! I hate you!

mooseknuckles 02-13-2011 10:35 PM

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
awesome job on the rasied floor bed! .....thanks for not ruining it by putting that other box back on!!

trevrolet65 02-13-2011 11:01 PM

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
Great work! That raised bed looks factory.

franky69c10 02-14-2011 03:35 AM

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
Nice work
Posted via Mobile Device

gringoloco 02-14-2011 03:54 PM

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
Thanks to all who have posted- you guys keep me motivated :) It's hard sometimes to keep the vision- it occasionally just looks like a directionless pile of junk to me. I think if I could stay off these forums, I could maybe finish this little project- there are just too many great ideas floating around here. There has been ZERO physical progress since my last tiny update due to being out on business for a bit, but I plan to get back to it with a vengeance and make up for lost time ASAP, which leads to the next revelation...

Any of you following my '72 Blazer build know that I parted ways with it, not necessarily by choice, but for good reason. It was like pulling off a band-aid, you don't really want to, but you know you have to, so the wound will properly heal... Between that time and now, I have managed to piece my life back together and am stable and headed in a new direction, which gives me an opportunity to think about playing in the garage again :chevy: Boosting this newfound(re-found?) interest is a recent conversation I had with my soon-to-be wife about the truck. She thinks that it will be cool to make the truck a part of the coming wedding celebration (how awesome is that?!) She would like to see it in a semi-completed state so we can have it on-site for photo ops and be used for hauling some of the props, decorations, etc and to be used as something for the guys to paint with shoe polish and hang cans off the bumper... She also knows that working on this old junk keeps me happy and relaxed, which is a good thing :)

The snag is, it can't just get painted and appear complete, it must be road-worthy, capable of some fairly long distance interstate travel while also being reliable and semi-comfortable. We are to be married in June, so that leaves a small window to get everything done in, and necessitates the installation of the Classic Auto Air kit I have sitting on a shelf... I have started putting together a punch list of items that need to be completed to make it happen. The hard part is finding the balance between what needs to be done and what I want to do, and without cutting corners. Luckily, I have most of the parts already and the required funds for completion are being added to the wedding budget :metal:, finding the time may prove to be the hard part.


Sorry for the long, drawn-out, lack-of-update post. I wanted to put this out there, so hopefully you guys can hold me accountable ;)


...and yes, I am one lucky guy. I am very blessed to have found such a wonderful woman who wants to integrate the things I like into our life together. Another upside is that since the truck will now be 'a part of the family', she won't ever ask me to sell it :lol:

VA72C10 02-14-2011 04:16 PM

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
I'll be here to remind you whever you are slacking! ;) :chevy:

Congrats on the upcoming marriage!!!!

sourkraut 02-14-2011 09:13 PM

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
nice build, will be watching

yukon ratrod 02-22-2011 12:54 PM

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
very nice project! was going to build a daily driver, but somewhere got sucked in to going the full mile. keep up the progress.

gringoloco 03-01-2011 12:58 AM

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
3 Attachment(s)
Managed a half a day off work today :metal: so I decided to spend some time rebuilding the front suspension. It was filthy from a trip to the metal scrap yard on a rainy day- I will NEVER make that mistake again. The majority of my time was spent cleaning and painting everything; if it wasn't so disgusting, the job would have gone much faster.

The first couple of pics show the state of the front end when I started. :barf: Also some pics of the carnage. The lower arms are actually the ones that were removed from my old Blazer when the DM went in. I used them on the truck after I 'accidentally' bent the right side doing a little off-roading. This truck has been neglected for entirely too long...

gringoloco 03-01-2011 01:25 AM

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
3 Attachment(s)
Here's a few more of the progress, including a crappy cell phone pic of the truck on stands that I sent to my fiance when she asked what I was doing today ;)

The 'new' parts were cleaned, painted with rust encapsulator and chassis black, and rebuilt today. The lowers are a set I picked up a while back which got new balljoints; the uppers are actually the same ones from the previous post that I removed earlier today, just cleaned, painted and with new Moog offset cross-shafts and balljoints. The 1.25" anti-sway bar, poly bushings, and ECE lowered mounts are more hand-me-downs from the Blazer that have been sitting on the shelf for a while.

The springs are new Moog 6102s that I picked up on Amazon for $40! I love me some free super saver shipping! They will be losing a full round tomorrow before installation :ito: Don't mind the rusty calipers, they will be getting the treatment tomorrow along with the spindles and rotors. Time to flip the lever on the ratchet the other way and start installing some of this stuff...


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