Re: Restoring Rusty
 

i liked how it looked all raw and shinny so I got this bright idea that I would just clear it and see how it holds up, I had some Dupli-Color Engine Enamel paint left over, so why the heck now, right?

what do you guys think, in terms of lookability and durability?

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

I would highly suggest that you reconsider that. Unless you plan to lap the valves in, getting valves to seal again once they are removed is a very large c*** shoot. Even lapping valves in you will have problems. After running, the valves have mirror image to the seat. They do not spin they just move up and down, open and closed. You are opening a big can of worms on this. I have seen this attempted numerous times by customers. One valve you may get lucky but 16, you will be chasing your tail.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

thanks, I have always been told that they spin/rotate a little at least?

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

I cleaned the Timing Cover next, then I realized it has some sort of built in rubber seal, well obviously but can only that seal be replaced or did I just waste my time making this cover shinny and now I have to get a new one

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

decided to straighten out a few dents with some precision tools

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

If you look at your old heads (882) they have rotators on the exhaust valves. These were meant for smog reasons to help cool the valves from the smog pump. AKA make the valves turn to help create less emissions. If you look at your new heads all the retainers are the same. It was a theory that the valves were rotating always, and while some might move a little, it pretty much stays in one spot. About the only real time you will see a valve move/spin is under valve float condition.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Knock out the old seal from the back side and replace with a new one. Make sure your balancer is not worn either. You should have all the seals and gaskets in a gasket set. Order a full set from Summit.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

the timing cover seal is easy to replace but make sure you support it properly to not warp it

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

That seal is a cartridge lip grease seal driven into the bore in the cover. Any half decent engine gasket kit will have it.
If you're re-using the harmonic balancer you can get a "lip relocator" type seal so the lip isn't riding in the 42 year old groove in on the balancer snout. The other option is a Speedi Sleeve to cover the groove on the balancer snout.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Thank you very much for that detailed explanation. The engine specs I am following do call for two different types of valve seals, one kind for intake another for exhaust, would that have something to do with your explanation.

10212810 - Intake (Valve Stem Seal Type: Umbrella, Valve Stem Diameter 0.344 in., Valve Guide Diameter (in): 0.500 in.)

12564852 - Exhaust (Specs unknown)

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

decided to remove the rockers, didn't realiaze there was that spacer washer thingie under the nut

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

That is the rocker arm ball, that is what the rocker arm pivots on. They also will show wear on the inside of the rocker arm.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

No the retainers are what goes on top of the spring and what holds the keepers. Again a gasket set is going to have those seals, But you have to get a set that matches the year of the heads. Remember your mixing old with new now.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

You are planning on putting new rocker arms in right? LOL. I wouldn't resuse any of those especially if they have that deep of groves.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Make sure you check the Valve guides for play while you have the heads off and everything off them. It would have been a good idea to keep each valve in the same space it came off of. not sure if you did that or not..

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

I did that each valve and companion bits are in the same labeled zip bag.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

lets take a closer look at each of the valve guide pairs and studs

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

and now lets take a look at the chambers and study the valve seats

that looks great to me

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

I started cleaning the valves next, and the face on the # 2 Exhaust Valve one looks pitted, its the first one I cleaned

now since this is a Budget DIY Adventure, I am entertaining the following two options, just lap them and see how much better they get, or buy new exhaust valves and lap them in

also going to disassemble my old heads and see how bad those exhaust valves were/are, after all that engine ran, so question is how bad can the exhaust valves be and still move the truck, and plus I learn by comparison so it will be a fun stare and compare exercise

Wow replacement GM Exhaust Valves part number 12550909 are $17 bucks a pop, EXPENSIVE!

some before after cleaning pics

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

then it was time to clean the # 2 Intake Valve and check it out, it looks better than the exhaust one

heck speaking of comparing valves, it wouldn't hurt to buy new ones and compare these to new ones, what a novel idea, ha ha

Wow replacement GM Intake Valves part number 10241743 are $16 bucks a pop, EXPENSIVE!

couple before and after cleaning pics

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

pitting is fine it's the valve seat you need to be concerned about.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Now is a good time to modify the heads for more lift, and run 1.6 rockers.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

that is the first piece of good news you gave me on this rebuild, lol, thanks

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

I agree but I am trying to be good and follow that GM recipe, plus I dont honestly comprehend fully what changing the rocker ratio will effect, increase the lift but at what cost, make the cam work harder?