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Why not put the water temp sending unit in the head? I noticed that the temp sending unit on my 80 4.1 was 3/8 npt.
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I dig the new look.
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The 3/8" NPT tang senders have a different resistance range than the 1/2" NPT Nail Head senders. You could swap in a matching 1979/1980 or later temp gauge along with the 3/8" NPT tang sender. |
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New Clue: truck will not idle below 750 RPM, even with the idle speed screw all the way out, timing set at 12* BTDC
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OK, back to basics
went out and bought a Vacuum gauge at NAPA for $25 bucks this should help set the idle mixture screw on the Holley 4160 carb so following a Super Chevy article (love that magazine) we set the idle to 850 RPMs that should give us a stable vacuum reading |
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That sucks.
(gufaw, gufaw, gufaw, hyuck, hyuck, hyuck) |
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so we hook the timing light up and the vacuum gauge to a non ported manifold vacuum off the base of the 4160 carb and the needle won't sit still, it jumps spastically between 15 and 20 PSI, see video
we bottom out the idle mixture screws one on each side of this carb (it only has two) and then turn them out 1.5 turns as per Holley's instructions than we play with them screwing them all the way in slowly then backing them out to about 2.5 turns, and that pesky needle keeps dancing and won't stabalize https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ry9ShldWpUg |
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so at this point I am thinking vacuum leak, so I disconnect anything that may be sucking vacuum, brake booster, PVC, etc. and plug those ports up with some spare hoses and bolts in them to clog them up, still no change, needle keeps dancing
so I remove the carb and notice I got a 1/4" spacer but it ain't sandwiched between base gaskets, (not sure if it must be, but something tells me it ought to should) so I shoot over to the parts house and buy 3 different types of gaskets (two of each) a 54 a 55 and a 57 hey, who knew? right? |
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Now Silver-hair was by this time very tired, and he went downstairs to the garage, and there he found three Holley carb gaskets. He tried the largest one, which belonged to the Big Bear, and found it too big; then he tried the middle-sized gasket, which belonged to the Middle-sized Bear, and he found it too small; then he tried the smallest one, which belonged to the Little Bear, and found it just right, so he laid it down upon the intake manifold, and put the carboretor on it
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well Donkey Kong, even with a single brand new base gasket between the intake and the carb (no spacer for now, keeping it simple) we got pretty much the same results
so then we found this Holley video - it claims an ignition problem, check spark plugs, plug wires, distributor, and coil How To Diagnose Common Engine Problems With A Vacuum Gauge https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NrnzD7PgoHI |
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well it's been like Amateur Hour over here on Team Shake 'n Bake I tell you, check out these spark plug gaps, this is rediculous
5 at .040" like they should ought to be was 2 too big, bigger than .045" and 1 too small, way too small, about .030" this team needs to shape up I tell you what Stu OBSERVATION: 1-6 look the same blackish/border line rich, 7-8 look lighter, a bit leaner |
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and to add in salt to injury, check out how high my feeler gauge goes up to, ha ha, .035 man GM Gods sure have a sense of humor - had to resort to the goofy wire style one I swore I would never find a need for, lol
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If you haven't figured this out yet, I'm reading the entire thread from start to finish. I love it. |
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I would run through the valve adjustment again, it is acting like they are a tad too tight.
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Spark plug gap on a HEI Chevy should be .045 as .030 was for a points system. Yes using the wrong gap will make a vehicle run like absolute crap. When I put plugs in my truck they were gapped for .030 and I could not get it to run properly no matter what.
Also doing vac gauge measurements I am pretty sure it should be on manifold vacuum not ported vacuum as should your distributors vacuum advance to get optimal performance. |
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I was just curious why the engine would overheat with the heater lines plugged,my big block is capped and it runs fine.Is your style engine have a different water gallery set up that would cause that?
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I been looking at your photos... y'all gonna have to change that truck's name.
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I do hear a tick and to me it sounds like one may be loose sounds like it is a comin' from the passenger side, here's the absolutely crazy thing though, it sounded exactly precisely the same before I did the top end swap/job, in other words the old heads aka the old valve train was generating the exact same tick (lets just keep that in mind as if it may turn out to be something else, something silly, like a bolt sticking out and tapping a firewall or something crazy like that) |
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let me get passed this vacuum issue and then I may try a different water pump, and maybe a more than single core radiator after that, maybe go aluminium |
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Run the gaps as wide as you can get away with it lights the fuel better. .045 is a good number for stock HEI with a new Delco coil and Ignition module. |
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well, gapped the plugs this morning to .040 (for starters) and warmed him up for 10 minutes, and then tested with the vacuum gauge again, and no change needle is still jumpy, dang
valve adjustment coming up next after my dentist appointment |
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Dentist appt. !! Don't take it out on poor Rusty, he has to be worried now.
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What vacuum can are you running? That can make the engine throb like that, although that is usually on the low end of vacuum, not the high end where you are.
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No, it's not like initial timing. You need to tune the carb with the vacuum advance hooked up. There's your problem. You are running a way-too-late spark.
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2) Mechanical Advance = How much your distributor pulls with weights and springs 3) Total Timing = Initial + Mechanical @ 2500-3000 rpm 4) Carb tuning is 1-3 setup PLUS vacuum advance Vacuum advance is there to help with idle and cruise and can help with MPG |
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decided to do a compression test before doing a valve adjustment, it's always good to have a baseline
man I was so bummed to find out that my trusty ol' compression gauge was not working, it read 0 for the first 4 cylinders so rented one from AutoZone for $40 bucks (which they refund you if and when you return the tool) before Pontiac Mike told me to check the Shrader valve on my old hose, and sure as sheet the cheapo tiny valve is bad, so that tells me my gauge may be good after all |
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man my cylinder pressure looks great, #1 and #2 were initially low but retested great
I always like to test twice once 1 through 8 and later on after re warming up the vehicle 8 through 1 |
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