Re: Restoring Rusty
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welcome to another Charge of the Light [truck] Brigade
another day, another wire wheel, I swear one can easily spend as much on these wire wheels (almost $20 a pop) as the purchase of some of our "project" trucks, if I keep visiting Depot Home (as my mum says) like this I may as well suggest they open up a drive through needless (pun) to say one must replace these every 3 months or 3,000 miles, LOL (one of these on the LEFT is the used one, can you guess which one that is?) |
Re: Restoring Rusty
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so we managed to get some POR15 black paint on the frame rail
UPDATE: Five years later, the POR15 paint is pealing off in huge chunks the size of 3x5 cards, do not recommend this product at all! |
Re: Restoring Rusty
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so while the frame rail was drying we decided to check on our inner fender which had been marinating in a light muriatic acid / water bath
you can see where the liquid could reach, as there is a distinct line, I could not fit the entire fender into my container so I would rotate it upside down, and down side up, etc |
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I hear ya, Gregski. I've gone through a million wire brush wheels in my grinder too.
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Could someone explain to me please, why when one single tiny drop of brake fluid drips from my master brake cylinder onto my brake booster it takes off half the paint off of it, yet when I shmear / lather the entire inner fender with DOT 3 brake fluid it won't remove a single spec ???
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since the brake fluid did not come through for me, I wasn't going to allow that to be a show stopper [get it - brake fluid...] I'm on fire today
I decided to call up my friend Walter. Now many of you know that The Greg is a One Clown circus act, but when a friend offers to help, who am I to say no... So The Greg and his buddy De Walt working together stripped the paint off that fender in 5 minutes flat, things were going so well they even decided to stripped the paint off the belly too now why strip the paint if you is just going to turn around and paint the thing? well if you look see closer, you will see that cancer lurks beneath the paint, that my friend is the evil we effectionaly call RUST |
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Dude I love this thread. You're just fixing every little thing like I do. If it's not broken, clean it up and put it back on!
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Stupid wire brushes! I hope your wearing a face shield using that.. I've had a few of those come loose and lodge in my face and hurt. Coveralls I've had look like a porcupine attacked me.
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Tomorrow
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got the inner fender all cleaned up and hung it up in the paint booth, then it was 1.5 coats of Rust-Oleum Rusty Metal Primer (cause that's all a single spray can has)
Sunday we'll shoot some undercoating on it's belly... |
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then it was back to the crappy power steering pump, check this out this is the $80 dollar one from Carquest
it came soaked in power steering fluid (despite the pink blanket) and the warning stickers just slid right off of it, well taking some paint with them at least the pulley slid right on this one, that's why I chose it over the one from O'Reillys I think I'm gonna touch it up with some semi flat black paint once all mounted up |
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wrapped up the afternoon by giving the frame rail a second coat of POR15
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Inner fender looks great! Hope your new pump works okay. Good luck at the swap meet tomorrow.
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scored sum finned chevy valve covers for $20 bucks at the swap meet today
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this can't be good... this is the underside of my hood after I POR15ed it a couple weeks ago
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Fish-eyes are oil contamination of the paint. You didn't get it perfectly clean. Not surprising considering that it's the bottom of the hood.
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so tried another brand of paint stripper in a spray can on those $20 dollar swap meet valve covers, and just reaffirmed myself to not waste any money on those and just buy the larger containers of the jelly like stuff you brush on, I have now officially spent more on the paint strippers than those covers, LOL
but with about three coats and some elbow grease scrubbing, they did improve, I will work on them some more later on and maybe put them on in a couple months when I mount the alternator lower, you see we have to re route all the wiring so it's hidden Hot Rod style |
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shot the Rust Oleum undercoating on the inner fender today and was disappointed with the results
remember last time I used this product on the other side, and it left a puddle of liquid over night as I was waiting on it to dry, well this time it let me down by not drying all lumpy bumpy you know with that rough texture we expect, it just dried smooth, weird - and I did shoot two coats I am done with this product, I saw that they have a Professional version of it, so I may try that, of course it costs almost twice as much |
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1. fix rear brakes - DONE
2. replace or fix left headlight - DONE 3. fix left rear turn signal - DONE 4. check out the lifter / rocker arm ticking noise 5. refresh the power steering - DONE 6. fix hazard signals - DONE 7. get the AM radio working 8. fix reverse lights - DONE |
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Keeping it moving. I'm parallel processing with you.
Make sure you share how you reinstall the steering gear box. I'm concerned about how to get the Pitman arm back on so that that the steering column is correct. |
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The best paint and powder coat primer for aluminum is anodizing but die cast parts are notoriously difficult if not impossible to anodize because of the way the alloys flow into the molds. I would shy away from anodizing these. |
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Seriously though you should be ok, end to end is about 3 to 3.5 turns, so turn it all the way to one end, then turn it all the way to the other and count the revolutions then put the splines in the middle, the pitman arm when on points almost towards the driver, trial and error won't hurt either, put it on and twist the steering wheel if you are a tooth off pop it off and adjust (of course without driving, but when parked) |
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SWMBO wouldn't like it if you used her range for powder coating or baking parts. It takes forever to get that burning oil smell out of the house... ;):lol::devil: That industrial waste aftertaste in the casserole would be kinda rough too. :D |
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Thanks...for the build thread (wink wink). |
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You're knocking down the list inch by inch. Keep giving it gravy.
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This has got to be the most impressive, enjoyable Build Thread I have ever read/viewed on here, my applause and gratitude to an excitable posting of your restore. Your truck looks very nice and what has made it enjoyable is to watch you use low dollar application and approach to it, it’s a truck right. Very nice, thanks for the fun and enjoyment! I want to say I can't wait till you get it done, but I want to keep enjoying your posts with it and pictures to keep it going like a book series or something. Well done my Board Brother!!!:metal:
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No pressure really.
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so went one day without wrenchin on the truck, and that nearly keewed me, you know what I mean fellas
decided to go to the gym... dang it I can't lie to you guys, the wife made me watch Game of Thrones, don't judge me ok, dragons are cool, hee hee so today I decided to take a look at #7 on the list, aka the low fidelity radio in all its AM glory first order of business, gather sum tools... hey how did that get in there |
Re: Restoring Rusty - Radio Repair
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I'll admit it I wasn't too keen on removing the radio cause I thought I would have to take the gauge cluster housing off... AGAIN, so I was pleasantly surprised when I didn't have to, take that cars of the 80s, 90s, 00s, you get the idea
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man just when I thought I couldn't love this truck any more, it makes this job so easy, thank you Rusty
one 11/32 nut in the back and 7 minutes later... |
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also removed the speaker (singular, funny to even say that) yeah man I installed a new speaker in my truck today, what did you work on?
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