Por 15 need help
Doing frame off on the K5 - everything besides the axles is getting powdercoated - didn't want to do the axle because I didn't want to pull the gear set out ( have no clue how to reset up).
Anyhow - full axle tear down so decided to paint with POR 15 - cleaned everything with their degreaser/clean - then metal prepped coated first coat with POR 15 rust preventer then went over that with the POR high build primer - to flatten out some of the brush marks left from the first coat - it worked and looks good Issue - today went to put their TOP COAT on but its so thick - consistency was between a tar and a thick latex paint. Couldn't get the paint to lay flat and not have runs in it. Looked horrible so used Acetone to remove what I could. Then tried to thin it with Xylene - that thinned it but then it wouldn't cover and still had tons of runs in it. At this point I want to throw that stuff away and go a different route on the top coat WAHT CAN I DO .... thanks guys |
Re: Por 15 need help
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I've used a lot of POR15 on my vehicles. I used mostly chassis coat and I remember discussing the product with someone at the paint shop that POR15 was critical in regards to the solvents used with. I thinned with lacquer thinner and was able to get finishes comparable to powder coating, IMO. It all depended on time and labor whether I used POR15 or powdercoat. I was cautioned that some solvents wouldn't allow the POR15 to harden and would actually make the finish "gummy". You might need to experiment what works best before you commit to the final finish.
I finished the rad support on my truck with POR15. I used almost a feather coat on the final finish; few to no runs. |
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I was using a brush maybe that is my biggest issue, don't have the gun to spray at this point.....
The base coat is hard as a rock ... now I just need to figure out how to top coat it. Any quality spray cans that will adhere to the POR?? |
Re: Por 15 need help
The only thing you can do with it is to scuff it, wipe it down with thinner and recoat it. Spray can paint is usually lacquer which is not the greatest. you may want to consider a bed liner type product. They have spray cans in urethane you puncture the bottom and the hardener added to the paint. When you work with urethane and epoxies timing is crucial. These systems harden and they are solvent proof so the only bond is by for a mechanical adhesion. P.m. me with your name and address what do you want Satin or gloss black and I'll send you a can of ag111 Merry Christmas
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Re: Por 15 need help
The top coat shouldn't be thick as tar. Was the can opened at one time ? Moisture in the air can make it thicken in the can . When I use it I put some in a small Mason jar ,just enough to do a coat or two . I try not to open the original package alot or let it sit opened .
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Let's get some facts first. I have been involved moisture cured urethanes for over 30 years. Clear moisture cured urethane is used as a sealer for concrete floors. When you add black pigment you have black concrete sealer. When Mobay chemical developed Bridge primer the only color it was available then was silver. Engineers at Mobay figured out if they could cut off moisture and oxygen you could not create rust. And if it was applied in layers over the rust the rust could not continue. Resin which is moisture activated it's completely waterproof I will suck the water right out of the substrate. By adding aluminum flake or matacious iron oxide was used to cut off the oxygen. When I asked their tech department about the black thier response was' it's silver like it or lump it;! So when you open up a can of black moisture cure urethane and paint your chassis this is not the way the system was designed. the name of this system is called Three Coat Polyurethane System consists of two coats of aluminum pigmented silver primer And a color coat. To manufacture this primer the humidity cannot be above 60% or you will wind up with Jello a week later. To give you a comparison the Three coat polyurethane system will do 14000 hours of salt fog testing Zinc phosphate epoxy primer will to do around 700 hours. Industrial Zinc-rich primer epoxy 3000 hours. There are new epoxies coming out of Europe that utilize Zinc power and glass spheres or Mica flakes that cut off the oxygen to improve corrosion performance I cannot believe how many auto restoration supply companies ,in the last 30 years, sell black moisture cured as a permanent rust sealer.
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Hello custom camper and fellow Avanti owner. Happy New Year. With all the conflicting information out there it's hard to make an intelligent decision on what paint to use on what anymore. I post this information , hopefully , to educate others. At the moment the paint industry is in turmoil. There's a shortage of epoxy resin and price of epoxy resin has quadrupled. There is also a shortage of help in the factories to produce these products ,which results in extended wait times. Anyway good luck with your projects and the best for the coming year
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He last used the car early 70s and stored parked it in the garage needless to say we had to rebuild the brakes but nothing else . |
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Re: Por 15 need help
Nice . Headlights are a bit unusual I see some Avanti II cues on the car . Side markers (AMC) and the rearview mirrors high back buckets interior rear view mirror mounted high . Space between the wheel well and top of fender looks thicker . May be the picture though on that What year?
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You've got a good eye. This car is a 1970 Avanti 11. In 1985 I bought an R1 Avanti and sold it two years later. 1986 I bought this one. I plan on putting the original headlights back this winter.
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My uncle was a Studebaker dealer then AMC and finally jeep till 1980 . So I grew up around them
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I remember the 69 AMX love to get my hands on one . There was one in town that used to smoke just about everything when I was in the army my friend had a 396 Chevelle one night two MPs in the Jeep chased us it looked like an episode of the Keystone Cops after we were in the barracks for a half an hour they showed up. They knew where we lived
You have a nice collection |
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