The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Does this help? Notes off a 1971 C10 - I imagine all the hardware in a 3/4 ton is bigger.

The two inner holes in the center link position vertically. The link's ends point to the front, with the holes on each end tilted slightly forward. Only one side will fit into the idler arm, the other side for the pitman arm.

The pitman arm has four large splines which align to four flat surfaces on the steering box’ worm shaft. With the worm shaft is centered, the pitman arm slides onto the shaft with the pitman arm facing straight back.

The front of the pitman arm mounts to the steering box worm shaft with a 1.5/16 hex nut and a split washer. The nut thread is 7/8-14. Per the assembly manual torque the pitman arm nut to 100-150 ft. lbs. Per the service manual torque this nut to 125 ft. lbs., and per Moog torque this nut to 175 ft. lbs. Mine was torqued to 150 ft. lbs.

The pitman arm's stud inserts into the center link from above. The stud secures using a 15/16” OD castle nut and cotter pin. The nut threads are 5/8-16. Per Moog torque this nut to 60 ft. lbs. and if needed what’s required to clear the cotter pin. Never back off the torque.

The idler arm support mounts onto the two swells on the exterior wall of the RH frame rail near parallel the front of the engine block. Position the idler support so the elbow on the support faces down and to the rear. The idler support mounts using two (GR 8) 9/16" hex bolts and torque nuts or use split washers. The bolt threads are 3/8-16 x 1.1/4. The bolts insert from the outside of the frame rail. The bolts were torqued per the service manual to 30 ft. lbs. Note: The assembly manual shows the idler support mounted using split washers, though some were installed with torque nuts instead. The manual also shows the bolts inserted from the inside of the frame rail.

The idler arm inserts into the idler arm support from below, and into the end of the center link from above. The idler arm secures with two 15/16” hex castle nuts & cotter pins. The nut threads are 5/8-16. Per Moog and the service manual torque the nuts to 60 ft. lbs. and if needed what’s required to clear the cotter pin.

Each of two tie rod assemblies is composed of an inner & outer tie rod, an adjuster sleeve coupler and two bolt clamps. The shorter tie rods connect to the spindles, and the longer one to the center link.

The tie rod adjuster sleeves take two clamps each to secure the tie rods. The original clamps used (GR 5) 9/16" hex bolts and lock nuts. The bolt threads are 3/8-16 x 1.5/8. The clamps position near the ends of the adjuster sleeves, butted up next to the “lumps” in the sleeve. Per the service manual torque the clamp bolts to 132 in. lbs. The original bolts are GR 5. This torque setting is probably adequate for the (GR 8) 5/16” bolts that come in a Moog kit. The bolts were torqued to 95 in. lbs. pending alignment.

See a service manual for orientation of the adjuster sleeves and clamp bolts.

• The inner tie rod studs insert into the rear of the center link. The outer tie rod studs insert into the spindle's front hole from the top. For what worth I found the RH tie rod assembly as 17.3/4" long, and the LH assembly was 18", measured from the outer heads on the rods.

• Each tie rod assembly secures with a 3/4" hex castle nut and cotter pin. The nut threads are 1/2-20. The tie rod nuts are torqued to 30-35 ft. lbs., and if needed what’s required to clear the cotter pin. Note the castle nuts on the replacement (Moog) inner tie rods are 18MM WTH?:sumo:

Each end of tie rod assemblies, both ends of the replacement idler arm, and the rear of the replacement pitman arm take a zerk fitting. Install OEM zerk fittings and throw the new ones into the garbage. Tighten zerk fittings with one finger only.

There's a right way to install cotter pins, I imagine you know how but - one pin is bent flush with the stud's end.