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-   -   Restoring Rusty (https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=645440)

Gregski 02-13-2015 02:24 AM

Re: Restoring Rusty - Job And A Half
 
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ok, enuff about tailgates, lets talk about this weekend, big job coming up, job and a half I tell ya

what's this? you're showing us a pic of your driveway? nice?

well it may seem like ordinary stains but I bet guys like Rich are looking at it going, hmmm I bet the kid is thinking about doing the rear main oil seal (and if I could smell and taste them stains I would recon it's the two piece veriety)

yup, time to take care of GM's PLS

what? PLS?

General Motors Pavement Lubrication System

Gregski 02-13-2015 02:30 AM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
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now I know we kicked around the idea of me driving around for a month or so, especially after that big intake manifold upgrade, but this is not an upgrade, this is an honest to goodness repair that just needs a doin'

figure nothing says Happy Valentine's Day honey like baby I'm gonna need you to park outside for a couple a days

Gregski 02-13-2015 02:45 AM

Re: Restoring Rusty - Drive Shaft
 
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to be honest with you I've removed a drive shaft before, and I removed a few trannys but I never installed a clutch so this will be a learning experience

first we need to remove the drive shaft, so let's see what we are up against

we unbolt it from the third member / diff, then remove the center bearing support, then since I do not have a car TV show my main shaft would not slide out of the trans so I had to undue the universal joint or yoke there what ever it is called maybe someone can learn me

Gregski 02-13-2015 02:49 AM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
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I am not kidding when I tell you it took me two hours to remove the two rusty bolts that hold that middle drive shaft support bracket, I thought great I am averaging 1 bolt per hour... but then things picked up a bit

Gregski 02-13-2015 02:53 AM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
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yeah it's pretty much like that, three yards and a cloud of dust

seems like every half hour I found myself rolling around in a pile of dirt and had to stop and use the shop vac for a bit

Gregski 02-13-2015 02:58 AM

Re: Restoring Rusty - Cross Member
 
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the cross member was up next, it is held on by 300 nuts and bolts on each side, or so it seemed

Gregski 02-13-2015 02:59 AM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
at this point I had some spaghetti and called it a night

68post 02-13-2015 03:18 AM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
No "pre-treat" with PB Blaster on any of those rusty bolts ??

Look for your 1/2" drive breaker bar and a cheater pipe too, the last one of these I did half of the bolts finally broke off (that did save time tho').

Chaplain 02-13-2015 08:48 AM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
Nice read sir. Very entertaining. Can't wait to see some green turf around here.

Gregski 02-13-2015 11:48 AM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by 68post (Post 7046472)
No "pre-treat" with PB Blaster on any of those rusty bolts ??

Oh, yes sir P.B. always shows up now that WD got fired! Usually soak the bolts the night prior to the B.I.G. job, then again during the big job in between profanities, LOL. I get so high on this stuff my joints feel lubricated. He's right there peaking from behind the drive shaft in one of em pics

Gregski 02-13-2015 11:51 AM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Chaplain (Post 7046563)
Nice read sir. Very entertaining.

Thank you I appreciate that, keeps me going.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chaplain (Post 7046563)
Can't wait to see some green turf around here.

It's gonna be 70* F here in February for the next four days then it drops down to 69* hee hee (I could be painting, LOL) Mother Nature sure has a funny sense of humor!

Gregski 02-13-2015 11:53 AM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by 68post (Post 7046472)
Look for your 1/2" drive breaker bar and a cheater pipe too, the last one of these I did half of the bolts finally broke off (that did save time tho').

Good advice, and no kidding. At one point I think I even used the top tube from my floor jack as an extension on my big 1/2 inch LOL (my cheater pipe is custom made for the 3/8th drive you know)

68post 02-13-2015 11:57 AM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Gregski (Post 7046764)
Oh, yes sir P.B. always shows up now that WD got fired! Usually soak the bolts the night prior to the B.I.G. job, then again during the big job in between profanities, LOL. I get so high on this stuff my joints feel lubricated. He's right there peaking from behind the drive shaft in one of em pics

You can always smell where he's been..lol. He may work better with a weeks notice.

We did a repair on a garage door in the back of a thrift store and returned in a couple days w/parts - and they asked me to please not use any more of that oil ! HA

Hey...you are keeping up the good work at a pace that makes me jealous - way to "git 'r done" !!

68Timber 02-13-2015 11:58 AM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
Very nice work!

Gregski 02-13-2015 07:26 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by BRUISER (Post 7046792)
Very nice work!

Thank you B!

Gregski 02-13-2015 07:34 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
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went back to Pick N Pull today (had a day off) and pulled a few things

first the thick 12 gauge pink wire all you '75 owners and newer take for granted that our points guys crave once we convert to HEI

actually found a truck that the distributor cap wasn't uninstalled with a hedge trimmer

(it's not the top red wire in the picture, its the one still plugged in to the base of the distributor with the white connector)

Gregski 02-13-2015 07:37 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
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and pulled the wrong spring for my driver side door hinge (shown in pics) I do not have a pic of the correct one

(yes I later realized there was actually a difference, a notch in the top part is on opposite sides, and pulled the one from the other side)

I like learning / finding out things like this, do you?

y5mgisi 02-13-2015 09:34 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
Do you have a good grasp on how to do the rear main seal?

Chaplain 02-13-2015 10:22 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by y5mgisi (Post 7047569)
Do you have a good grasp on how to do the rear main seal?

Good question because I'll be watching for tips to help when I do mine.

Make sure you get it right.

Gregski 02-13-2015 10:54 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by y5mgisi (Post 7047569)
Do you have a good grasp on how to do the rear main seal?

Drop oil pan, remove rear main, replace oil seal.

If what you are getting at, is what in the heck am I doing? Then I am trying to inspect the clutch plate for contamination as I have oil all up in there, plus the whole drive train is so filthy that I wont be able to tell whats a new leak and whats old

greg64 02-14-2015 01:25 AM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
Hey Greg. Look, I've been there and done that. Let me pass along some of what I learned... Removing the transmission seems like the "easy" (that's a bunch of BS) way to do this job. But let me tell you, having an sm465 myself, they weight 180 lbs with no fluid. Taking it out is hard enough, but putting it back is a real bear. And that assumes you have a way to support the transmission on your floor jack. Just the cup end on the jack isn't going to cut it, and lifting that transmission in dangerous. I almost crushed my arm one time.

Next, even after you get the tranny out, doing the rear main seal is still a b1tch! Ya, it can be done, but it's an awkward job lying on your back.

I found, counterintuitive as this sounds, it's easier to block up the transmission in place, then disconnect the bell housing bolts at the engine, and pull the whole engine. This makes the seal job, and removing the pan way easier, as is realigning the clutch disc. Of course this assumes you have an engine hoist.

The other benefit is you don't have to fight with the driveshaft (those centre carrier bolts are pleasant). And you don't have to remove the tranny crossmember. Man, I spent hours getting one of those out on a parts truck I had. The lower bolts are easy, it's the upper ones under the cab.

greg64 02-14-2015 01:28 AM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
Also, now that you have the driveshaft out anyway, check the u-joint condition, and grease them up.

And (you knew there had to be more) is your engine an original 74, or is it possibly newer? If you can see the crank flange, if its bolt circle is 3.58" it's pre-86 and uses the two piece seal (easier to change). If its bolt circle is 3", then it's the later engine and a one piece seal.

Slonaker 02-14-2015 02:24 AM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
I have never replaced one, but this looks like it might help.

http://www.73-87.com/7387garage/drivetrain/rearseal.htm

Slonaker

Gregski 02-14-2015 03:09 AM

Re: Restoring Rusty - Tailgate 101
 
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so where were we, ah yes I was telling you what I got at the junk yard today, and there was one more thing

I got the tailgate door handle and linkage and learned whats the difference between 1st Design (uses stud for the hold ups to hook on to, '76 white tailgate below) 2nd Design (uses bolt, but that just means the stud is still there just welded to the bracket that use bolt on, '79 blueish tailgate below) I needed the ladder

Gregski 02-14-2015 03:12 AM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
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GM did a lot of things right on these ol' truck, using philips head screws to hold the handle to the tailgate, not one of em

also I demonstrate my super human strength whilst destroying a Harbor Freight special screw driver (surprise)

and then use vice grips to git 'er done

Gregski 02-14-2015 03:15 AM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
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removing the tailgate handle linkage is equivalent to the lost art of building a ship in a bottle

surprisingly installation went ultra smoothly, and the gate even latches and unlatches, amazing

I assembled it and fitted it

Gregski 02-14-2015 03:17 AM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 


How long before this freak paints it green? I bet it being black is driving him crazy?


Gregski 02-14-2015 03:25 AM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
3 Attachment(s)
meanwhile under the truck, progress continues

this being a one man operation, I had to improvise (since the transmission adapter I borrowed did not fit inside the hole of my floor jack) I decided to make a transmission hammock out of tie downs

this allowed me to separate the tranny from the bell housing and suspend it, without any small animals getting hurt in the process

Gregski 02-14-2015 03:29 AM

Re: Restoring Rusty - Gearshifter Removal
 
2 Attachment(s)
removing the gearshifter was a major pain, that's why I waited till absolutely necessary, I read a bunch of advice about pressing down on the ball joint thingie and twisting, that may have worked in '76 but not 40 years later

and to my surprise there was no YouTube video on it

what finally worked was a suggestion I read on some forum, a guy said just tap it with a 2x4 down and counter clock wise, I swear 4 taps and she was out

once again ProMark 3000 to the rescue

Gregski 02-14-2015 03:31 AM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by greg64 (Post 7047725)
Hey Greg. Look, I've been there and done that. Let me pass along some of what I learned... Removing the transmission seems like the "easy" (that's a bunch of BS) way to do this job. But let me tell you, having an sm465 myself, they weight 180 lbs with no fluid. Taking it out is hard enough, but putting it back is a real bear. And that assumes you have a way to support the transmission on your floor jack. Just the cup end on the jack isn't going to cut it, and lifting that transmission in dangerous. I almost crushed my arm one time.

Next, even after you get the tranny out, doing the rear main seal is still a b1tch! Ya, it can be done, but it's an awkward job lying on your back.

I found, counterintuitive as this sounds, it's easier to block up the transmission in place, then disconnect the bell housing bolts at the engine, and pull the whole engine. This makes the seal job, and removing the pan way easier, as is realigning the clutch disc. Of course this assumes you have an engine hoist.

The other benefit is you don't have to fight with the driveshaft (those centre carrier bolts are pleasant). And you don't have to remove the tranny crossmember. Man, I spent hours getting one of those out on a parts truck I had. The lower bolts are easy, it's the upper ones under the cab.

Greg, this is where I was when I saw / read you post. I was literally sitting on the garage floor right next to my Muncie on the floor right next to me

Gregski 02-14-2015 03:34 AM

Re: Restoring Rusty - Bell Housing
 
1 Attachment(s)
so then we were looking at this

hardest part of the bell housing removal was the clutch pedal bracket / linkage and a weird cotter pin I wasted a lot of time on removing before I finally crawled inside the engine compartment and got it out that way

Gregski 02-14-2015 03:38 AM

Re: Restoring Rusty - Bellhousing
 
3 Attachment(s)
removed the bell housing with that clutch pedal lever thing attached to it, and it didn't separate till it was on the garage floor, live and learn

not sure it is supposed to be charcoal black on the inside like that

Gregski 02-14-2015 03:40 AM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
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so now we are looking at this, this is where we stop tonights' progress

tomorrow, clutch removal

Gregski 02-14-2015 03:48 AM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by greg64 (Post 7047727)
Also, now that you have the driveshaft out anyway, check the u-joint condition, and grease them up.

And (you knew there had to be more) is your engine an original 74, or is it possibly newer? If you can see the crank flange, if its bolt circle is 3.58" it's pre-86 and uses the two piece seal (easier to change). If its bolt circle is 3", then it's the later engine and a one piece seal.

I recon it's original the number on the block is a TJD

TJD 1974 350 conv.cab - 160 4 C-10 & 1500

Gregski 02-14-2015 03:50 AM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Slonaker (Post 7047779)
I have never replaced one, but this looks like it might help.

http://www.73-87.com/7387garage/drivetrain/rearseal.htm

Slonaker

Thanks Slonaker, we'll give that a shot

greg64 02-14-2015 10:53 AM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
Hey Greg, that Pro Mark 3000 looks like a useful tool, do you sell those? :lol:

Well, obviously you've gone the transmission route, and that will work, so keep up the good work you're doing. One nice thing is that you have unbolted the tranny floor cover. When putting the tranny back in, you can span the hole with the Pro Mark 3000, and use ratchet straps to safely hold the tranny from above.

Good luck with the seal, and the hunting at the pick a part.

Gregski 02-14-2015 01:24 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
4 Attachment(s)
my arm rests arrived the other day, check out this shipping, is this why we are paying $28 bucks for shipping cause someone at LMC forgot to get some smaller shipping boxes?

they also shipped the window seal kit separately in another package, I wonder if they didn't have enuff room in this box for both parts plus all the free air they sent me? LOL

the new pads are all one piece of hard foam painted with black textured paint, there is no metal base bracket nor vinyl covering, wonder if the other suppliers like Brothers sell the same stuff?

~ Hi me, this is me three years in the future! With another product WARNING: these are junk, the driver side one didn't even last a year. It's a design flaw, how can you screw on foam (with no metal backing) to the doors and expect it to hold / stay on when you pull on them. Lame, Don't buy these! ~

rusty76 02-14-2015 07:06 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
Looking good and good score on the tailgate.!

Gregski 02-14-2015 08:10 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by rusty76 (Post 7048600)
Looking good and good score on the tailgate.!

Thanks, and I think that tailgate will work great, I am pretty happy with it.

Gregski 02-14-2015 08:18 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
2 Attachment(s)
progress continued today, as I removed the pressure plate and the clutch plate

I definitely need a new clutch plate as there may only be a 1/6th of an inch to the rivets, and it would be a shame to replace it and not replace the pressure plate (see the worn out fingers, I think that's what those three things in the middle are called, please correct me if I am wrong), so I will be replacing them as a set, as well as the throwout bearing

hey less parts to clean, right!?


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