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-   -   Restoring Rusty (https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=645440)

Gregski 04-13-2016 10:54 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
2 Attachment(s)
ok so once I had it all disassembled I noticed I set two pieces down out of order, so the second pic shows the correction, apologies

68post 04-14-2016 09:59 AM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
I've done this same shifter cleaning, then greased it and fitted a plastic bag around it to at least help seal out the grime for as long as possible.

Thought I had a new shifter when done.

Gregski 04-14-2016 10:29 AM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
2 Attachment(s)
so we got all our parts separated, time to start a cleaning, gentlemen if there is one thing I learned is that the solvent and toothbrush method is cute for 2012 BMW owners trying to get a dead mosquito off their exhaust pipe chrome tips, but for 40 plus year old trucks we need a 4" wire wheel on our trusty angle grinders to git our real men dirt and grime off, ha ha

not sure if you guys noticed a little slight of hand trick I performed for you: do you see how we went from 3 shims to 4?

somehow while wire wheelin the top two identical wavy shims (with the two hole punch in them) on the upper right in the second pic separated, so the question be, was Molly the Hurst assembler technician not paying attention when she grabbed two of them accidentally cause they was stuck together, or did my shifter or do some shifters need two/double shims in there, in all the minutes spent on YouTube I have yet to see a four shim setup, can anybody comment please


we mark this Color Severity Orange as I don't want to have parts left over after [ahem] fixin' something, you know how that goes

Gregski 04-14-2016 10:33 AM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
2 Attachment(s)
and what do we git / see when we clean our old parts? that's right some good all fashion part numbers, but you already knew that

ah back when the world was a simpler time and part numbers made sense, I think these went

0073
0074
0075

so if you want to roll your own Hurst shifter for one of these transmissions these lever part numbers are your ticket

Gregski 04-14-2016 07:53 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
4 Attachment(s)
started the day by re assembling the shifter, all the parts were clean and lubricated with white lithium grease, the action is superb now

FYI: I left the extra (second) wavy shim out - we'll call it a spare

Gregski 04-14-2016 07:59 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
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then I moved on to the radiator, figured I put it off long enuff

so first we cleaned it, then a little wire wheel action, then a coat of black paint and satin clear, no primer, didn't want it to have too many layers on it

last pic is after the first light coat

Gregski 04-14-2016 08:01 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
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so second coat and clear, than we flip it over and do it again, it was easier to mask it laying flat than trying to hang it, in my opinion

Gregski 04-14-2016 08:06 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
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and finally got the driver side spark plug wire routing figured out, well #5 mostly - all done using parts from about 7 Vortec engine looms, ha ha

Had to run the longest wire maybe the 32" from #5 under the block and attached to an upside down mounted Vortec wire loom bracket in make shift mode, ha ha aka the key to the entire operation

Gregski 04-14-2016 08:09 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
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... and now the Money Shot!!!

Valarius_Starchaser 04-14-2016 08:12 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
woah..... :jdp:

Gregski 04-14-2016 08:12 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
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and now a sneak peak of Greg's Exhaust 4.0 (that's right folks this will be our fourth version of the exhaust system)

sorry guys The Greg will not be running his X pipe any longer nor is he interested in the H pipe setup

those rediculously long turn down tail pipes may be cut and 2 feet of that pipe may go in front of the mufflers to move them back, to be determined

Gregski 04-14-2016 08:18 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
4 Attachment(s)
EXHAUST MEMORY LANE

Version 1.0 - stock exhaust, manifolds and two into one tailpipe, or what was left of it, the grandson of the previous owner saw a hole in the stock muffler so decided to just cut it off, yes I drove the truck home about 50 miles with a straight pipe baby - pronounced "loud"

Version 2.0 - LMC Truck 2 1/4 dual exhaust system with Turbo Mufflers, very affordable and easy to install setup / upgrade, absolutely no issues with it, mates with the stock exhaust manifolds

Version 3.0 - Hooker Competition Long Tube Headers and Summits X Pipe (P.I.A. to install without welding for one dude) still 2 1/4 utilizing those same LMC Truck Turbo Mufflers

Version 4.0 - Same Hooker Headers with Flowmaster Series 40 mufflers and 2.5" pipes, yeah baby!

daddyjeep 04-14-2016 10:07 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Gregski (Post 7560919)
... and now the Money Shot!!!

Dude, the colors are all backwards. :haha: love it.

68Timber 04-14-2016 10:16 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
Oh wow. I didn't know you'd stepped the pipe up to 2.5". I've had that exact exhaust before on a square and it is loud.

y5mgisi 04-15-2016 03:38 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
I bet you will end up quieting the exhaust down somehow after a while. I have had the same setup before and it was way too much for me.

Rich84 04-15-2016 03:38 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
:agree:What He said^^^

Gregski 04-15-2016 09:48 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
1 Attachment(s)
some last minute stuff before the big day tomorrow...

Oberon67 04-15-2016 10:24 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
Well at least you got pizza.

69heavychevy 04-15-2016 11:00 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
Say it ain't so Gregski...You were the inspiration for me going from true duals to an X-pipe lol! I love my X-pipe set up, sounds great and a lot more smoother than the dual exhaust...but I will admit it was a major PITA to install on my back laying on the driveway...

Gregski 04-15-2016 11:22 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
2 Attachment(s)
my buddy Mopar Seth gave me the idea of using a Dodge 833 backup switch instead of buying a $25 connector for the GM one, which got me into thinking, what if we just swap switches, and have to buy nothing

well here they is side by side (welll top and bottom) the blade one on top is off of my 1974 Muncise SM465 the roundy round is from the 1984 New Process 833, they look same enuff fer me so I swapped them and will let you know if that works

enaberif 04-15-2016 11:42 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
Switch should be a two wire setup with the ball (detent) acting as the switch. When the detent ball is pressed in you have electrons flowing and when its out electrons stop.

Easy way to check this is grab a multimeter and probe both prongs and press the ball in and out.

Gregski 04-16-2016 02:33 AM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by enaberif (Post 7562199)
Switch should be a two wire setup with the ball (detent) acting as the switch. When the detent ball is pressed in you have electrons flowing and when its out electrons stop.

Easy way to check this is grab a multimeter and probe both prongs and press the ball in and out.

thanks bud, I know the switch works cause it's my old working switch, question being will the reverse lock out tab like mating with that ball in this transmission and make enuff contact to activate it, for that I need the trans in the car at the right angle in the right position with fluid and my girl sittin' beside me, ha ha

rich weyand 04-16-2016 02:33 AM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by 68Timber (Post 7561044)
Oh wow. I didn't know you'd stepped the pipe up to 2.5". I've had that exact exhaust before on a square and it is loud.

Huh. That's exactly what I have on mine, and it's fine with me.

Gregski 04-16-2016 02:36 AM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
2 Attachment(s)
so my first setback is that the rear U joints are of two different sizes, my old drive shaft spider cross thingie measures 1.063 in diameter, and the new donor drive shaft cross thingie is bigger at 1.129 so it won't could fit in the U joint or yoke what ever you call the thing in the differential

what ta do? what ta do?

can we switch caps? you know the ones that hold the roller bearings, maybe the tube inside there be of the same diameter

Gregski 04-16-2016 03:21 AM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
5 Attachment(s)
so the final piece of the puzzle showed up the overdrive transmission side cover gasket, so I sprayed one gasket adhesive on both sides of it and slapped the side cover on the transmission, than I adjusted the fingers

I went to replace the bushings and whoa realized this is a GM transmission ladies and gentlemen, so if they is going to weld in their non HURST sticks they don't need no stinking bushings, not nylon not steel, they don't use any bushings, ha ha

the nylon ones would not fit, and there weren't any in there to begin with

Gregski 04-16-2016 03:26 AM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
1 Attachment(s)
originally I thought the Turbo 350 driveshaft I got would not slip in to the tailshaft of the overdrive 833 transmission since the shaft was keyed but the tailshaft wasn't, but than I said now Greg don' be skierd try again, so I wiggled it a bit, stared at it for a minute than I stared inside it for a minute, and then I shoved her in

turns out the area that is keyed just skips a spline instead of having a wider spline, so that had no effect on the two mating

score that as a win!

Gregski 04-16-2016 03:28 AM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
dang it's passed midnight gentlemen, it's Saturday, so it's officially:

D Day!

Gregski 04-16-2016 03:31 AM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
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so lets get this Party started!

has anybody seen my nice black dress socks, anybody?

Gregski 04-16-2016 03:33 AM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
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I'm tired so I'll let the pictures do the talking

Gregski 04-16-2016 03:34 AM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
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I like this pic the most, it's like an assembly line

Gregski 04-16-2016 03:36 AM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
1 Attachment(s)
put the mosquito wheel on with some Blue (medium) loctite and torqued it down to "as hard as you can, plus a quarter turn" ha ha, jk 60ft lbs

Gregski 04-16-2016 03:38 AM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
1 Attachment(s)
Check this guy out fellas, he is so [ahem] clutch!

Gregski 04-16-2016 03:38 AM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
that's it for me, good night everybody!

Rob C 04-16-2016 09:02 AM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
So close!! Liking the 2.5 exhaust btw..Had it in my old truck too. I loved the sound. Let's everyone know your there :D

68Timber 04-16-2016 11:35 AM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by rich weyand (Post 7562312)
Huh. That's exactly what I have on mine, and it's fine with me.

That wasn't meant as a slam to anyone running that combo, FM sells a ton of those 40's every year I'm sure. But that was the loudest combo I've ever run by far, and even though I was in my 20's when I had it, it was was still embarrassing at times. Some people are obviously OK with it, to each his own. I don't think his wife and kids are going to like it. Especially with turn-downs.

hatzie 04-16-2016 11:51 AM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by 68Timber (Post 7562605)
That wasn't meant as a slam to anyone running that combo, FM sells a ton of those 40's every year I'm sure. But that was the loudest combo I've ever run by far, and even though I was in my 20's when I had it, it was was still embarrassing at times. Some people are obviously OK with it, to each his own. I don't think his wife and kids are going to like it. Especially with turn-downs.

An X or H pipe with 40 series and tail pipes straight out the back makes a lot less throbbing drone in the cab without the bends of side exit tails... just two 45 degree bends and straight out. The drone can get annoying on longer trips.

An H or X pipe will make a noticeable difference in the RPM range of your torque band and a pretty respectable jump in HP. http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/exh...for-your-ride/

You may end up wishing you opted for the 50 series. They are still pretty aggressive sounding when you get on it without as much throbbing running drone.

hatzie 04-16-2016 12:10 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
More on how and why the H and X pipes work and what they are useful for...
If I understand this correctly now... You can get rid of some of the offensive drone without killing the aggressive tone using an X or H pipe... Maybe somewhere between the 40 & 50 series running and still have the growl when you get in it. Maybe.

http://my350z.com/forum/intake-exhau...ml#post7111390

"There's a big misconception about the intended function of the X-Pipe versus the H-Pipe.

The H-Pipe does balance out the pressures and slightly helps start the scavange effect on the next exhaust pulse. But it's most effective use when properly placed and sized is for it's tuning function. Sound waves enter the tube changing to a specific frequency that was found to be a problem. Prehaps a droaning noise at highway speeds. With the correct placement in the system and correct inside diameter, sound waves entering the tub shift to the problem frequency. When like frequencies collide, they cancel.

The power comes from opening up the exhaust. A slight add comes from the scavenge effect but ultimately the H-pipe is to counter the noise from opening up the exhaust.

The X-Pipe on the other hand is more effective in sound cancellation. By forcing the exhaust streams to collide, some sound frequencies are cancelled. (In a much larger range than the H-Pipe.) You would think the two exhaust paths colliding would cause more backpressure. In reality, the exhaust flow mass follows the path down the same side. (Bending around the inside of the X.)

The sound frequencies cross paths of the exhaust. Cancellation of like frequencies occur even though the mass of the exhaust flow hits and deflects into the same side pipe.

This is all assuming WOT condition or near full mass flow rate. At lower flow rate, the X-pipe does make the low frequency idle sound a little irratic. Something desireable in a Mustang or Corvette. But a Cadillac wouldn't care for it.

This is used as a band aid in tuning high performance vehicles to meet the legal pass-by requirements. Something that is difficult to do on a car like the Viper Roadster or Corvette.

The X-pipe idea was tried on the Viper roadster but ultimately they used the H-pipe design. If you've ever seen the OE system on a Viper Roadster, the exhaust exits the headers, enters an un-Godly hot converter that I have seen damage body panels and melt basalt packing back into a crystal solid. It runs down the side of the car into the main muffler and then to the rear axle. Then it turns to the opposite side and hits the H-pipe which is over the axle and exits out before the axle on the opposite side of the car. If it were not for the Pass-By requirements, this would be an easy design.

Designs like this and the birth of the X-pipe all stem from the need to meet the requirement. Again, the X-pipe just allows the exhaust to be opened up more while tuning out undesireable frequencies. It's ability to "add" power is a debate most drawn up by aftermarket marketing managers. Everyone loves a gadget."
--- Quoted from the above linked post by User Phreakedout at the 350Z forum

Jeramy 04-16-2016 06:13 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Gregski (Post 7562314)
so my first setback is that the rear U joints are of two different sizes, my old drive shaft spider cross thingie measures 1.063 in diameter, and the new donor drive shaft cross thingie is bigger at 1.129 so it won't could fit in the U joint or yoke what ever you call the thing in the differential

what ta do? what ta do?

can we switch caps? you know the ones that hold the roller bearings, maybe the tube inside there be of the same diameter

precision u joint part number 449

Gregski 04-17-2016 02:42 AM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
3 Attachment(s)
so the engine / transmission installation took 12 hours and started with us mating the New Process 833 overdrive transmission to the engine like so

no fluids, no motor oil in the engine, no transmission fluid in the transmission

Gregski 04-17-2016 02:50 AM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
3 Attachment(s)
the hardest part of the physical install was the transmission crossmember, turns out I did not get the proper 833 crossmember but got a basic 4x4 one instead when I bought the transmission, so we ended up using my original Muncie SM465 crossmember, however to get it to work we had to move it forward about an inch and I think flip it front to back as the holes are a bit offset

so in other words the 833 transmission has the transmission bracket about 1 inch closer to the bellhousing than the Muncie its just off far enough so you can't just drill two new holes in the crossmember as it is only about 2 inches wide in the middle and the bolt heads would not fit

we also had to notch the floor sheet metal to make room for the shifter, more specifically the shifter bracket as it sits about 1 inch too far back to clear the natural opening cavity



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