Re: Restoring Rusty
Harmonic balancers also make good toe bruising weapons.
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I was showing a lot of love to the top end today and word start to spread that I didn't love the short block no mo, so I gave it some attention and a much needed flush
replacing the freeze plug behind the engine mount, I already did two with the engine in the truck, but now I is using brass ones, wish I had them then |
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my god this is so much easier with the engine out of the truck!!!
I always use a little bit of the orange gunk on these babies now, after doing my first one twice, lol I also used 000 steel wool to gently clean up and smooth out the hole |
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with the freeze plug out I first ran a couple quarts of steaming hot water through the three water round holes in the block, and then used a garden hose to run water through each of the three holes until it came out clear, it was raining today so the driveway will wash itself
gonna leave the block on its side for the night, so the orange goop dries, and maniana we will turn her over and do the other side, and that will give us 4 total brand new freeze plugs, and that will be good enuff fer me, cause these rascals are tricky wicky, a new plug don't gurantee a no leak situation, I may even cause a leak by messing with one, but in this case this one had scar tissue so I could tell he wanted to move out, so why fix it if it aint broken |
Re: Restoring Rusty
You replace all the plugs? That one was pretty bad.
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I pretty much tried everything to no avail |
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here's what the new replacement seal looks like, and its got a hard outer edge, so its not like it would go in with that lip on both sides of the cover
question is which way does it go in, which way is front and which way is back, know what I'm sayin' |
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Support the cover on 2 blocks of wood and use a punch/hammer to drive the seal out.
Reinstall new seal(after painting cover) with seal facing out as seen in the second picture. |
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Before you put a torch and a lot of heat to it (and risk warping the timing cover) would you take your dremel and a little cut-off wheel and carefully cut a slot in the collar/ rim of the seal? If you can weaken it there you can probably collapse the seal, prying it away from the inside radius of the timing cover with the tip of a flat head screwdriver? No warranty with my advice. |
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but I took some pliers and went around and bent the lip out, so it became a pipe instead of bent in, that also made the metal crack sorta like cutting it like you suggested, then using what is quickly becoming my favorite tool THE VISE GRIPS I ripped her right out, I guess the secret was going out there late at night in my pijamas, and not being skierd! |
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naturally I already own this one, two tubes mind you, LOL one not even opened, so what the heck is this Permatex ANTI-SEIZE 133A stuff for?
their website reads: "A highly refined blend of aluminum, copper and graphite lubricants. Use during assembly to prevent galling, corrosion and seizing due to weathering or chemicals. Anti-Seize assures easier disassembly. Temperature range: -60°F to 1600°F (-51°C to 871°C). Salt, corrosion and moisture resistant – ideal for marine use." Fellas I aint trying to be difficult or stubborn, I know you have shown me what to use specifically, but I don't want to just blindly use something, I want to comprehend it, know what I mean? Plus I hate buying stuff when I already have some stuff. I just hope its the right stuff. |
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that is good to put on brake parts or other things not touched often to prevent the bolts from getting rusted into their threads its good for nothing else and should never be used to seal a water jack to put it simply
https://cessnachick.files.wordpress....a-bad-time.png If you use that on your water jacket head bolt |
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It is a thread lubricant to prevent galling. I am a Millwright at a paper mill and we use TONS of it on fasteners, especially stainless. Prevents galling and makes life easier when removing bolts/nuts.
I would not use it on anything internal for your engine. The stuff has a metallic compound to it that would not be good mixing with engine lubrication. Good for, exhaust fasteners, motor mount fasteners, accessory bracket fasteners, etc. |
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and I found where I used this stuff, looks like back in Thread 430 Thermostat Bolts heck maybe even the Intake Manifold bolts, no wonder it leaked!!! |
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When you put the new seal into the cover if you haven't already make sure that little lip is perfectly or as close to perfect as you can get.
Then before you install the seal put a small amount of black rtv around the edge and then install. When you put the cover back on put a small amount of grease on the crank snout to prevent any binding of rubber against steel. |
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gentlemen I don't mean to beat a dead horse to death, I swear, you are really helping me out here, so 2 more questions I promise
1. what about this ARP Thread Sealer part number 100-9904 I found - what is this meant for? I know threads but which ones, head bolts, exhaust manifold bots, intake manifold bolts, water pump? |
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That ARP thread sealant will be good for any water jacket application and anything up to 550 degrees and is even good on fuel fittings
worth the few extra bucks to not send coolant into your engine "ask how I know" |
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Sometimes you will use it in place where two different types of metal exist such as aluminum and steel which can corrode together. |
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