Re: Restoring Rusty
Follow-up:
The location of your up-and-over-and-down hose in the pic on p 154 of this thread is correct. Lots of nice pics of different pretty ways to do it are here: https://www.google.com/search?q=vort...h2CLUQ_AUIBygC You need to do it, because you do NOT want to be circulating coolant through your heater in the summer. I put a valve on mine so I could shut it off, because there is minimum amount of heat you get from the heater even when it is shut off. And when it gets hot here, any amount of heat is too much. |
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OK, now we are on the same page, (of the same book) sorry, sometimes I am just a little slow to get things. |
Re: Restoring Rusty
One other thing you could do. Run the bypass hose with a selector switch in it that can select the heater core OR the bypass. So one selector valve and a T. Then you can have the heater core for the winter, and bypass it in the summer. The one thing you can't do is just shut it off.
What you need is a 1/2" NPT 3-way valve. Search that on Amazon or google. Looks like 30 bucks for a competent one. Here's an example: Industrial Grade 1PZA1 Three Way Ball Valve, 1/2... Basically it hooks up between the heater hoses like an H-pipe in the exhaust, with the valve in-line on the smaller hose, and a hose across to a T in the other hose. |
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One more thing. You can get those 3-way valves with electric actuators, so you could hook it up to run through the heater core when you selected Heat, and otherwise switch to bypass.
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Re: Restoring Rusty
Try bumping your initial timing up to 14º-16º. You have a larger camshaft now and this is a good number.
Your vacuum reading at idle most likely will not be over 16-17 with that camshaft, and that's well tuned. |
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I feel like I need to explain my thinking process for using water. I was using water because it is much easier to clean off of the engine block if you have to remove the thermostat water outlet half a dozen times, as well as the garage floor. Also it is my understanding that Antifreeze lowers the freezing point of water as well as raises the boiling point, so I do not expect much change in my condition by running the green stuff, but we shall see. And finally I know many car racers that say they have to run straight water at the race truck so they don't spill antifreeze on the track, I know that is a fact, so if it is good enough to cool their engines which they push way harder (upwards of 100 MPH) than I am pushing Rusty (45 MPH, lol) water should cool my truck just dandily provided everything is in order (gaskets, bypass hoses, fan, radiator, etc.) again Not arguing, just sayin' |
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ok, so lets sum up the situation code name WATERGATE (you like that? I came up with it all by myself)
In the beginning with no bypass hose we were running hot as so... |
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then we added the bypass hose from the intake manifold to the water pump, or water pump to intake manifold which ever way you swing
... and that took us out of red line aka out of critical but still East of the middle on the gauge |
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next we added Antifreeze Coolant into the system, so now we are running 50/50 with water mix, and that did nothing, the reading is exactly precisely the same [pause to scratch head]
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Without knowing what those ticks reference in regards to numbers who knows what you are reading.
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maybe you all can share pics of your happy water temp needles with us, so I have something to compare mine to, please |
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I have a 195° thermostat in my truck, and the operating temp is a tick below the first line (1/4 of the gauge).
I have an electric fan, which is switched on at 212°, and off at 192°, and the needle never passes the first line. My truck is a '77, with original gauge and presumably sender. |
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... we now step away from WATERGATE momentarily and join Timing Adjustment already in progress...
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I don't think this will impact my engine running hot (notice I did not call it overheating) but only a test drive or two will tell, and for that we will have to wait until tomorrow |
Re: Restoring Rusty
On temperature, I have an original guage, and a reproduction sender to match the original. Note: not a substitution gauge, a reproduction gauge with the same resistance curve as the original. American Autowire did it for the Corvette restorers, whose gauges read in degrees. It drove them nuts not to have them read right. It turns out they use the same resistance sender as squares up through (I think) 79.
The full details on senders are in this thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=630399 My gauge now reads just shy of straight up when everything is operating normally. |
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I went looking around, because I thought stick shift idle was supposed to be lower than auto trans idle, but it looks like I misrecalled. You look good to go right there. |
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I pulled the trigger on this gorgeous Summit brand digital water temp gauge SUM-G2984-1G for $35 and its accompanying sender SUM-G2984-1S for an additional $10, and knowing Summit they may arrive today. |
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so took the truck for a standard 30 minute test drives now that I think I have the timing dialed in, gentlemen the truck sounds good to me, it sounds like a fine tuned Swiss Tractor, lol, no seriously it do sound good, but it still ranned hot
when I got home I felt the radiator cap and it didn't feel too hot, so I did what you aint supposed to do, unscrewed it, then I shoeved the wives favorite turkey thermometer in it, and it read 164* F now I know and you know that I know that, that's in the radiator and not in the cylinder head or not in the intake I get it, but heck we got some sort of a reference digit, know what I mean bro |
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so we used our digital thermometer as a baseline control, we decided to boil some hot water and we stuck the 1974 water temp sending unit in the pot as well, we were making Vortec Soup, both were suspended in the water and not touching the bottom hot plate, the sending unit was connected to the gauge with its green wire and its housing grounded to the battery negative terminal to ensure proper and reliable ground (ignore the color red wire, an aligator clip is an aligator clip) brilliant if you ask me so with the truck off but the key in the on position (not start, just on) as the water begun boiling the digital control gauge started climbing, our truck gauge didn't for a while, it was a bit slower to react (a bit discouraging at first, but then...) then it started to move I recorded the first notch as 190(ish)* F I recorded the middle notch as 210(ish)* F since water boils at around 212 that was as hot as we could get and the wife caught me using her pot so I couldn't add no Antifreeze to it, ha ha but we might have some reference digits now |
Re: Restoring Rusty
Very nice test here. Don't trust anything. It kinda reminds me of my engineer days.
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