Re: Restoring Rusty
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Re: Restoring Rusty
If you don't want drone scrap those junk ass blowmasters. And buy some real mufflers.
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I've had glass packs on my truck for eons and honestly they've never droned on me. The only thing I see I would do different on yours is to point the tips (ends of exhaust) toward each other slightly. Like twenty degrees or something. It helps cancel the sound waves. It's the way mine were done. They stop right before the axle. I'll be redoing my exhaust for sure but however what I had worked great and sounded awesome.
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Resonators on the late model stuff is after the muffler very near the exhaust tip. Wonder if that would take care of it?
Maybe also try some turn outs? |
Re: Restoring Rusty - Digital Volt Meter Gauge
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so added the new Summit digital Volt Meter gauge in the upper left
hope to add the digital fuel gauge next month to complete the Quartet baby steps folks, baby steps |
Re: Restoring Rusty
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and shoved the new Air Fuel Ratio AFR Gauge in the upper right, this is a temporary placement until I get the Vacuum gauge (that's what the second hole is for - forward thinking folks) and then will make it look more better, but still in the same general location
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I hear John Deere corn head grease is good for steering boxes. I'm pretty sure power steering and air conditioning are aimed at the "pantie-waist mama's boys" market :chevy:.
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1. You don't fully own a project until you've bled on it.
2. You know you are a man when you look down, see blood all over the place, and your first thought is "geez I sure hope that's not mine." 3. I have Dynomax Super Turbo 17748 mufflers on mine, because I'm not 16 anymore, and I can't stand drone. I'd probably get a shorter body muffler though - these are almost too quiet. |
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so got the oil pressure installed, not sure why it's reading 5 PSI with the truck off but 61 PSI with it warming up sounds good
also got a volt meter wired up, 12.4 volts with the key in the auxilary position, and 14.1 ish with the truck running man this iPhone camera just can't grasp the concept of focus when it comes to shooting these there green digital read outs |
Re: Restoring Rusty
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got the oxygen sensors installed and the new AFR Air Fuel Ratio DLG-1 dual gauge calibrated
more details can be found in the thread below: INNOVATE DLG1 Wideband O2 Oxygen Sensor Tuning Diagnostics Logging Air Fuel Ratio etc |
Re: Restoring Rusty
Great timeline posts. I'm just starting a 78 Cheyenne stepside resto and your info has helped greatly. Thanks for such a detailed post!:c2:
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It had been a while since I had read through your build, so I decided it was time.
Man I am jealous of the pick and pulls you have in your area. We were down in Nashville a couple of weeks ago (2 and a half hours away) and there were three and I thought I had found heaven. Ended up between the three there was one....that's right one.....square body on their lots. There was an 84 that was but a shell. Locally, one pick and pull and no squares...in fact nothing under the early 90's....at least truck wise. The local junk yards want an arm and a leg for everything. I live in a wasteland of square parts. |
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There are two squares (one sitting in my neighbors garage and one sitting in a pole barn up the road) that haven't moved in at least 5 years (that's how long we have been here). The neighbor that has the one in her garage....well she and I aren't exactly best friends or I already would have talked to her. The one in the pole barn...I have stopped multiple times and can never catch anyone at the house. I am hoping eventually I will catch someone and be able to get a new parts truck or a new project. Otherwise I am going to have to travel to hit up pick and pulls.
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seriously man no woman will say no to flowers, show up looking semi clean, buy some flowers, say excuse me ma'am I was no where in the neighborhood and decided to stop by, would you mind if I was to admire that truck of yours... and thats that, no offers, no pressure no ctiticism, this is just a Hello there neighboor visit, that's a nice truck ma'am, thank you for letting me look at it, have a nice day you're welcome, ha ha |
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Or I could just flag her down one of the times she drives by our house at 2 miles per hour watching to see what we are doing so she can call our landlord....ya she is one of those...
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I hadn't looked in a while, had to come back and catch up on 10 pages. Looking great, as always Greg.
A couple of things... I am in a similar situation on mufflers. I got pretty cheap welded Thrush mufflers. Previously this motor had stamped, bottom barrel turbo mufflers and it sounded pretty good, I can't see how this won't be an upgrade, but I too am a little concerned with drone, especially with long tube headers. Also, I might just go have them welded, I am not convinced me or my harbor freight welder are up to the task. I also have the same package from Innovate. I just wanted to be able to fine tune this thing ensure optimum A/F, I say good call. I also have a related gauge package. I have elected to delete all the factory gauges and put together a $200 kit from Intellitronix, which gives me all digital gauges. They look very similar. Here's a quick video of its first idle: https://youtu.be/AKEP61owQ7M |
Re: Restoring Rusty
Here's a youtube video of someone with the Intellitronix gauge set I have in a square:
(Mine are blue though) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jj12ez_KXHk |
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A couple of things... Quote:
first I hope you have their MIG or at least Flux Core / MIG combo machine and not just their Flux Core unit, (don't know what you got, ok, are you using a gas tank with your box or no tank? no tank means Flux Core) so one thing that really transformed my HF MIG machine was tossing their cheap spool of wire that it came with and right away going to Home Depot and buying a spool of Lincoln name brand .030 wire, if I was to do it again I would got even thinner wire like the Lincoln .025 to ensure I would weld and not burn holes in the exhaust then it is just a matter of figuring out your box settings, and honestly you play more with the heat knob ie amps than the wire speed, you set the wire speed to a low setting like a 2 and then just mess with the heat knob until the wire actually penetrates the metal and you can't tap the weld bead off with a hammer, if you can take a hammer and knock the bead off than the wire feed is too cold and you need to up the heat, also if it is popping it is too cold and the wire is bouncing off the metal, tap tap tap instead of melting into it see what you have made me do, you made me get up on my welding soap box, sorry, hope that helps though P.S. also an auto darkening welding helmet is a must especially for beginners the nod your head to make the old style helmets fall over your face was cool in the 50's ha ha |
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I have the non-gas Flux core model, some thing I have done:
- Converted it over to DC with some big caps and a bridge rectifier. (Tutorials for this are everywhere) - Upgraded the wire to Hobart .030 - I do have an auto darkening helmet I'm getting better at not burning holes in stuff, the thinner wire might help. It still splatters a lot. Its only power settings are high/low. I'm usually running it on high. |
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Dupe post. Can't find delete!
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I have a 2 year old Lincoln Viking and a new Jackson BH3. They are both noticeably heavier than my old fiber helmet and you can get flashed if you don't set them right. They are also easier to use with the MIG for sheet metal work. |
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I think there is some kind of spray you can get (look into it) to spray your piece before you weld it to make sure the splatter don't stick, I had a lot of splatter with my Harbor Freight Flux Core machine, little bits a bit bigger than pieces of crushed pepper all over the place, they would come off easy with a wire wheel or a grinder but still it meant an extra step |
Re: Restoring Rusty
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so with the Air Fuel Ratio adjusted to be way better way leaner into the high 13s range rather than the 10.6 range I started with, the truck is running great, idles around 550 RPM nice little rumble, not perfect yet, but better
I drove it in to work today, ran great, even the fuel gauge decided to work |
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I love how clean the new gauges look...mine aren't bad but not nearly as shiny. I am having some issues with high idle and have been told to get a wideband to get it figured out....I just can't afford to drop the cash...there has got to be a better (cheaper) way!
Flux core will always splatter. |
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INNOVATE DLG1 Wideband O2 Oxygen Sensor Tuning Diagnostics Logging Air Fuel Ratio etc starting at thread #42 (also not in the thread but my initial timing is set to 10°) Quote:
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Mine is a TBI, so there isn't much I can tune without changing out chips (as far as I know). I really have been thinking about changing over to a carb...a computer seemed like a great idea now I am beginning to hate it...
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so if it is wigging out, it only does what it is being told, what I mean by that computer has it's field soldiers, the sensors, and they tell it what to do, the first thing I would do is replace your Oxygen sensor(s) with quality OEM spec ones what ever the engine you have came out of or is, then reset the error codes if any and drive around the next thing to replace is the MAF Mass Air Flow meter sensor thingie, check the error codes and drive around the next one after that could be the throttle position sensor |
Re: Restoring Rusty
High idle on a TBI? Check the base gasket as well as for slop in the throttle.
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87 4wd with a 350 TBI and 700R4 tranny. The motor is not the original according to the guy I bought it from but he didn't say what it came out of, how many miles on it, or anything else that might have been useful. I was too blinded by the beauty of the truck to think at the time....let's call it truck goggles.
The O2 sensor is about a year old and I believe it is a house brand from somewhere. I have been trying to stick with AC Delco on everything, but that one I slipped up on. That will probably be remedied soon. The TPS, idle air control valve, and map sensor are all new (past year to six months) and AC Delco. Not getting any vacuum leaks at the throttle body base. The EGR was leaking on me but has been replaced....but I went with an off brand locally instead of waiting on an AC Delco to be delivered. I do have a vacuum leak toward the back of the intake manifold, so I am going to redo the intake gaskets in the next couple of weeks. No slop in the bushings either that I can tell. .....So the love affair with the truck goes on but the engine and I are barely on speaking terms! |
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Way to rub it in man! ha ha
Now....what have you done on Rusty lately....don't leave us hanging here! |
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Just a Truck doin' Truck Things!
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If you can find out what CAM, heads, and pistons you have you can probably find a tuned EEPROM image for that setup. You want to keep the TBI setup or move to MPFI if you can. Carbs are easier but don't extract the power that a properly setup EFI system can. Stock 1987 the L05 TBI 350 had 35 HP and 25 ft-lb on the Stock Carbureted 1986 LS9 350. The 1987 L03 TBI 305 had 10HP and 25ft-lb on the Carbureted 1986 LE9 305. The TBI system did this with better fuel mileage and without blowing out huge amounts of garbage from the tailpipe. USB ALDL interface cables are not expensive... $55 at most and you can build your own for less. Used enterprise class XP laptops are right around $100. WinALDL and TunerProRT are not difficult to use and are either free or donationware. You start running into real money when you get an emulator like the Ostrich and start building your own custom programs. http://support.moates.net/gm-86-95-obd1-guide-read-me/ |
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