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-   -   Restoring Rusty (https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=645440)

Gregski 03-01-2015 03:01 AM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
so here is a summary

started the truck and heard a metal on metal rubbing noise, so heart stops, dollar signs flash before your eyes

you tell yourself don't panic, the clutch needs adjusting, so you double check the free pedal clearance... 1 1/2 inches, spot on

you say what the heck loosen up the clutch fork all the way, what? still rubbing metal on metal, oh no, but it can't be the clutch

wait a minute I bet it's that stupid fly wheel inspection plate cover attached to the bell housing, ever since I bent it back a bit cause it was funky, I second guess my correction because maybe it was bent that way for a reason, so I removed the darn thing, NO MORE NOISE

put the clutch fork back into play, and go for a test drive, truck was cold, needed to warm up some, other than that, maybe another pedal adjustment, but other than that, all good

left the truck in a new dry stain free spot on the driveway, we will see in the morning if he left a mark, fingers crossed (this was a main seal repair after all, LOL)


canadian_diesel1964 03-01-2015 05:14 AM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
Lol man the life of a shade tree mechanic eh!!

Chaplain 03-01-2015 11:09 AM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
Well what's the verdict?

greg64 03-01-2015 11:25 AM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
Greg, those u joints are pesky, eh? The large one on the transmission is a 1350. I think most of the half ton rear ends used a 1310, but yours isn't. I suspect the axle is a 1330. See if the bearing cap diameter is the same or smaller then the transmission ujoint.

By the way, you can fill the transmission up with fluid through the shifter hole when the shifter is out. Might have been easier.

Anyway, good work on getting it all back together.

enaberif 03-01-2015 11:28 AM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
A little tip when doing ujoints put a small amount of grease on the needle bearings. It helps hold them in place for installation.

bnoon 03-01-2015 11:47 AM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by enaberif (Post 7071016)
A little tip when doing ujoints put a small amount of grease on the needle bearings. It helps hold them in place for installation.

The ones I've purchased most recently had a little bit of grease inside to hold everything in place already. I used to put a tiny bit in there for the same reason and it seems some manufacturers do the same thing. :metal:

Glad Rusty is back among the living!!!

Gregski 03-01-2015 11:59 AM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by greg64 (Post 7071014)
The large one on the transmission is a 1350. I think most of the half ton rear ends used a 1310, but yours isn't. I suspect the axle is a 1330. See if the bearing cap diameter is the same or smaller then the transmission ujoint.

The rear bearing cap is indeed smaller than the transmission one in the front.

Quote:

Originally Posted by greg64 (Post 7071014)
By the way, you can fill the transmission up with fluid through the shifter hole when the shifter is out. Might have been easier.

ARE YOU SERIOUS !!! boy do I feel silly, lessons learned baby, lessons learned

Gregski 03-01-2015 12:00 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by enaberif (Post 7071016)
A little tip when doing ujoints put a small amount of grease on the needle bearings. It helps hold them in place for installation.

Yes of course, they had grease for sure, otherwise it would have been impossible. But we all know that even with grease sometimes they lay down.

Gregski 03-01-2015 12:10 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Chaplain (Post 7070991)
Well what's the verdict?

Good follow up Chap, well went out there the first thing this morning in my pajamas and slippers.

Dang it there is a stain the size of two quarters under the truck. Right under the transmission drain plug.

So I called a tow truck and had it towed to the junk yard! No just kidding just checking if anyone else is actually reading this, sorry fellas.

Ok, so I feel the transmission drain plug and there is a drop of trans fluid on it ready to drip, (fyi the truck is on a pretty good incline in the driveway, front up) I wipe it with my finger, and it looks like trans fluid, feels like trans fluid, smells like trans fluid, and tastes like trans fluid.

So I am gonna say, lets not send Rusty to the crusher just yet. I bet this is just the run off of the little bit of transmission fluid that I got all over the (newly painted transmission) whilst trying to fill her up. (All the other Greg's fault as he didn't tell me I could fill her up through the shift hole) yes we'll go with that, hee hee

Gregski 03-01-2015 12:22 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty - CLUTCH FREE PEDAL TRAVEL ADJUSTMENT
 
Words according to Manuel 7M:5

Only one adjustment is necessary to compensate for all normal clutch wear.

The clutch pedal should have free travel (measured at clutch pedal pad) before the throwout bearing engages the clutch diaphragm spring or levers.

Lash is required to prevent clutch slippage which would occur if the bearing was held against the fingers or to prevent the bearing from running continually.

[ preach on my brotha ]

1. Disconnect return spring at clutch fork.

2. Rotate clutch lever and shaft assembly until clutch pedal is firmly against rubber bumper on brake pedal bracket.

[ do I even have a rubber bumper any more, lol ]

3. Push outer end of clutch fork rearward until throwout bearing lightly contacts pressure plate fingers or levers.

4. Loosen lock nut and adjust rod length so that swivel slips freely into gauge hole. Increase pushrod length until all lash is removed from system.

5. Remove swivel from gauge hole and insert into lower hole on lever. Install two washers and cotter pin. Tighten lock nut being careful not change rod
length.

6. Reinstall return spring and check pedal free travel.

Pedal travel should be 1 3/8" to 1 5/8" on "C -K " models.

[ oh just say 1 1/2" already for crying out loud, hee hee ]


Seriously though, you allz follow these steps, cause I sure didn't I do have 1 1/2 inch free pedal play, but I didn't get there this way, a re check is in order.

greg64 03-01-2015 12:24 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
What a joker! Sorry I seem to have helpful tips for you *after* you needed them. :lol:

I think your axle ujoint is a 1330. The 1350 has larger diameter caps. The 1330 and 1310 have the same size caps, but the 1330 is wider.

That transmission drain plug is a low point, so anything that leaks from above will work its way down to the drain lug and drip from there. More importantly, is the rear main holding?

MikeB 03-01-2015 12:40 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
I've changed a few u-joints over the years, but the last ones I did kicked my butt. I ended up taking the driveshaft to Driveshaft King in Dallas. After laughing at what they called my "cheap parts store u-joints", they replaced them with "made in the USA" models. They also straightened and balanced the shaft. (Pretty cool to watch.) The total cost? $100! Best money I ever spent. As an unexpected benefit, the balance job got rid of a couple interior buzzes, and reduced a floor shifter buzz.

On another note, I think we're due for some progress pics of your truck -- a few shots of the outside, inside, and engine compartment.

Gregski 03-01-2015 12:47 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by MikeB (Post 7071129)
I've changed a few u-joints over the years, but the last ones I did kicked my butt. I ended up taking the driveshaft to Driveshaft King in Dallas. After laughing at what they called my "cheap parts store u-joints", they replaced them with "made in the USA" models. They also straightened and balanced the shaft. (Pretty cool to watch.) The total cost? $100! Best money I ever spent. As an unexpected benefit, the balance job got rid of a couple interior buzzes, and reduced a floor shifter buzz.

Mike I totally agree with you, and am adding Driveshafting to my short list of out sourcing. And hey my Federal Mogul rear U-joint was made in the U.S.A. lol

1. Changing / Balancing Tires

2. Windshield / rear window replacement

3. A/C charging/fill up (from empty not just top off) glad Rusty aint got AC

4. _____________________________ reserved for future use

5. Driveshaft universal joint replacement

Gregski 03-01-2015 01:03 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
2 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by greg64 (Post 7071101)
I think your axle ujoint is a 1330. The 1350 has larger diameter caps. The 1330 and 1310 have the same size caps, but the 1330 is wider.

found this U-Joint site that explains / helps identify all the basic U-Joint Series, it does confirm my rear one is a 1330

who knew there was so much to a joint (fill in your own college reference)

Universal Joint Identification

greg64 03-01-2015 01:59 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
Greg, I'm with you folks who outsource driveshaft work. It's generally not expensive, and I want to be sure it is done right. I've had a number of custom shafts made over the years. There's just no way I could balance them correctly in my garage.

Glad you found the ujoint diagrams, and they confirm my memory.

Gregski 03-01-2015 02:39 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
1 Attachment(s)
ah the Sunday morning paper, some day I'll own some 6 ton floor jack stands (to replace my 3 tons with)

Gregski 03-01-2015 02:47 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
1 Attachment(s)
spent the morning lazily cleaning up my tools which were scattered all over the garage floor

I think I at least recovered all my Craftsman wrenches (my daddy taught me to buy Craftsman a quarter century ago, from SEARS he said, man did their quality go down the tubes)

the ratched ones in the upper right hand corner are one of the nicest things I ever bought from Harbor Freight, they are Pittsburgh brand (what ever that means, Pittsburgh, China - LOL?) however I hardly get to use them as the ratched end is too bulky to get in to most places I would like, so I call em Gimmick Wrenches and they are there to beautify the drawer, LOL

below I got my 6 and 12 point box end wrenches (spanners for you coming from across the pond) two of each except for the 11/16ths odd ball and his 13/16ths cousin (I think I can hide $100 dollar bills beneath these two and no one would ever find them)

greg64 03-01-2015 02:53 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
You can never have too many jack stands. I bought a bunch of 6 tons at a swap meet cheap, and I also have 2 ton (short) and 12 ton (tall and beefy).

Gregski 03-01-2015 02:54 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
1 Attachment(s)
So now the question is, how long do we ( I ) hold on to these old parts?

Is it Two Weeks, like with Birthday and Christmas cards?

Or is it 18 Years like with your kids refrigerator art?

Gregski 03-01-2015 02:56 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by greg64 (Post 7071317)
You can never have too many jack stands. I bought a bunch of 6 tons at a swap meet cheap, and I also have 2 ton (short) and 12 ton (tall and beefy).

I love you man, thanks for reminding me a huge local (walking distance) swap meet is coming up next month.

Gregski 03-01-2015 03:15 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
4 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by MikeB (Post 7071129)
On another note, I think we're due for some progress pics of your truck -- a few shots of the outside, inside, and engine compartment.

Good idea, remember a while back when I removed the radiator shroud to clean and blackatize it, well I don't recon I ever took pics of it when installed, so here they are, before and after.

(dang it the pics aint too good cause of the sun... complain, complain, complain, I get it, sorry)

Gregski 03-01-2015 03:20 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty - Window Seals
 
2 Attachment(s)
also remember a while ago when I took off the door panels to paint them, well since I had them off I opted to replace the window seals as well, so these are the parts that came in

Greg, you and boxes, why are you showing us boxes? Easy Grasshopper, I am just sharing that they are not formed, shaped or molded, they come from LMC Truck just rolled up like that, I think that's good to know

Gregski 03-01-2015 03:28 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
5 Attachment(s)
so as my grandfather would say if he was alive, had a truck, and knew how to work on one: "I'll sleep when I'm dead!"

so here's how I replaced the driver side window seals (not the door seals, the window seals only)

to get the old ones out (and there is two of them, one is bendy and one is straight) I just used a flat screw driver and broke them, or I should say they broke while I was trying to gently pry them out - so you may need to sacrifice them

Question: were the original seals shaped/molded hard plastic? Or is this what 40 plus years does to them?

Pic 1 - old driver side window seal removed (plus precision implement, lol)

Pic 2 - remains of old driver side window seal next to brand new one

Pic 3 - remains of old driver side window seal next to brand new one plus another brand new one still in the bag

Pic 4 - Close up of the part number (there is no left or right one for this part, its all the same part number)

Pic 5 - What just the new parts look like, opened and stretched out and how it comes in a bag

Don't mean to insult you all, just trying to help.


Gregski 03-01-2015 03:32 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty - More Window Seals
 
1 Attachment(s)
ok so here is what the bendy seals look like, driver side and passenger side as if you were standing behind the truck looking forward, they curve on the outside of the door frame, the part by the door handle than up from there

Gregski 03-01-2015 03:38 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
4 Attachment(s)
Ok, next I removed the driver side vertical window seal from the post that separates the window from the triangular vent window

Pic 1 - the old seal (starts out crumbling then the rest / the bottom slides up and out)

Pic 2 - the old seal side by side with the new one

Pic 3 - the old seal side by side with the new one, plus another new one in the bag (different part number, there is a left and a right one)

Pic 4 - the two new vertical seals

Gregski 03-01-2015 03:40 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
1 Attachment(s)
ok, this is what makes the vertical window seal so special, it is just this metal retaining clip, that snaps into place and keeps it from sliding down, seal shows is the driver side, the clip is on the opposite side on the passenger side

a bit confusing in the pic because normally the seal is facing away from you, but I have it looking at you so you can see the clip

Gregski 03-01-2015 03:47 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
3 Attachment(s)
OK, there is no screws to undue, do not unscrew that philips on the very top of your door, no need

once the old seals were out, I just used a paper towel and some Denatured Alcohol (from Home Depot) to wipe down all the tracks, remove the rust, and dust, and what ever else lurked in there

not a bad time to reach down carefully inside the door cavity and cut your arm up [ahem] I mean retrieve and debris that may have accumulated (and is rattling and driving you crazy ~ just sayin')

You will NOT be using any glue, rubber cement, or adhesive, or at least I didn't, these seals just snap into place

Gregski 03-01-2015 03:52 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
1 Attachment(s)
here is the vertical window seal installed, a bit hard to see but it's in there

MikeB 03-01-2015 04:27 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by greg64 (Post 7071317)
You can never have too many jack stands. I bought a bunch of 6 tons at a swap meet cheap, and I also have 2 ton (short) and 12 ton (tall and beefy).

I have four 5T stands that were made by Excel in Arkansas back in the 90s. Also have a two 12T imported stands, but they're pretty nice. They are awesome for getting a truck up in the air, and are 18" tall at the lowest position! I typically use them under the axle tubes.

http://www.northerntool.com/images/p...53_700x700.jpg

Gregski 03-01-2015 05:09 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
2 Attachment(s)
then there are the horizontal parts which come both in exterior and interior and passenger and driver sides

drive side shown

Gregski 03-01-2015 05:13 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
4 Attachment(s)
you may think your external horizontal window seal is in good nick, but if you look closely, what they lose is that 1/8th of an inch extra rubbery strip that actually seals against the window, so if yours is all gone you may not even know what you are missing, see below

Gregski 03-01-2015 05:15 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
3 Attachment(s)
new and old interior and exterior driver side horizontal window seals side by side

Gregski 03-01-2015 05:16 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
1 Attachment(s)
enuff already, geez, ok one last pick of what you actually get in the kit per side, here is driver side shown with all four new pieces

Gregski 03-01-2015 05:17 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
2 Attachment(s)
outside driver side horizontal exterior window seal snapped into place

Gregski 03-01-2015 05:21 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty - Door Panels
 
5 Attachment(s)
other materials

El Sello Universal Weatherstrip, lol I just picked this up at AutoZone, it is not a direct replacement for what came on the truck this is foam a bit heftier, later I found the exact match at ACE Hardware, and that one is narrower and spongier, but mine works too, it has double sided sticky tape on one side

this goes in between the door and the plastic door panel, may keep it from rattlin' or something

I ran a strip just under 4 ft I think, one spool was enuff for both doors plus had just under 2 feet left over

Gregski 03-01-2015 05:23 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
3 Attachment(s)
I despise these little white plastic door panel clippy clips, I do

the original ones looked ok, but were brittle and done with, so I bought a pack of six, although you only need two per door

also the inner horizontal window seal attaches to the top of the door panel

Gregski 03-01-2015 05:27 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
2 Attachment(s)
ok so finally the before and after shots of the driver side door

so your thoughts? what do you all think?


LSX408 03-01-2015 05:59 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
Looks great! Nice work!

Jake Wade 03-01-2015 06:00 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
Looks really nice, keep up the good work!

greg64 03-01-2015 06:10 PM

Re: Restoring Rusty
 
Looks way better! I used the exact same kit from LMC for my doors. Old stuff had gone bad the same as yours. While I had the door apart, I also put sound deadening in the outside door skin. Helped a lot with road noise.


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